Nero Corsa Discovery and Refresh

[Scud]

Here is the remote clutch bleeder, successfully installed. Good thing too, as the bleeder valve was rounded off and would have been a PITA later. This is simply the line from a CARC bike, I noticed it on my 2017 Stelvio, so that's what used to place the order with Harpers. They identify it as "Float Chamber Clutch Pipe" part # 05606630.  It was $70 - but next time I flush the fluid I am going to be happy I installed it. It uses the same banjo bolt as the Brembo brake calipers (and two washers).

Final routing TBD, but the Stelvio has it up under the seat near the battery.

Update: final routing for the clutch bleeder hose is under the frame, then along side the big positive cable from battery to starter. It terminates near the battery tray. Should make for super-simple, one-person clutch fluid flushing.

Edited December 31, 2021 by Scud
added info

[fotoguzzi]

Outstanding discovery !

[Scud]

Curiosity got the best of me. I wanted to know what spring was in there, and I wanted to see the weld from the inside. It's a magnificent bit of welding.

I also imagined how I would feel if the spring broke in middle of the Mojave Desert. 

Cover popped off easily, so should be good to go.

As you can see above, the "improved" spring is already fatigued. And I have no shortage of truly improved springs.

I also picked up a 20-pack of bearings that replace the detent roller. Apparently, these are a common size for skateboards so they were cheap. Next few buyers of shift springs get a free bearing till I run out.

An in other news... the Bitubo damper had a bad crunchy spot in the middle of travel. But the Ohlins is butter-smooth the whole way. I have not yet removed a Bitubo that was still operating well - they all have that crunchy, sticky spot.

[docc]

Sir_Scud: one of V11LeMans.com's many Member Emeritus.

The combination of that Chuck (another M.E. ) engineered spring and the roller bearing, combined with (M.E.) Lucky Phil"s "V11 Shift Improvement" makes the V11 6speeder a delight. Don't neglect the benefits of grooming the external rear-set shift mechanism.

Scud, buddy, you rock!

[MartyNZ]

While the sideplate is off, you could burnish the edges of the cam tracks in the cam wheels. I think Pete Roper suggested this. Then I shimmed the cam wheels inwards to maximize engagement with the shift fork pegs.

[docc]

34 minutes ago, MartyNZ said:

While the sideplate is off, you could burnish the edges of the cam tracks in the cam wheels. I think Pete Roper suggested this. Then I shimmed the cam wheels inwards to maximize engagement with the shift fork pegs.

Hear-Hear! @MartyNZ, M.E.

[Scud]

 

Making some progress:

• Disassembled and cleaned ignition and starter switches, and various other electrical connections
• Got a bunch of powercoated parts installed, including the top triple clamp (steering bearing had almost no grease)
• Noticed rear brake disc is badly worn (thanks to the sintered pads...)
• Plastic T lamp holder is barely holding itself together (fortunately I had a new one already tucked away)
• Cleaned injector and throttle bodies (god I hate those tiny screws that hold the injectors in)
• UFI oil filter characteristically left the O-ring stuck in the engine. There's a Wix in there now.

Still waiting on some goodies... but the Speedhut gauges have shipped. Looking forward to getting those in place.

Thinking about gloss black powdercoat for the wheels.  Building a list of little bits needed from Harpers.

[Scud]

On 12/12/2021 at 7:22 PM, footgoose said:

The loose intake boots could indicate some previous backfire, so worthwhile keeping an eye and ear out.

Your shop will welcome her I think.

It was the LH boot that burped off. I just found that the LH spark plug was loose (spun out by hand with only the socket) - and the LH exhaust valve was tight. Both intakes were at .005" RH exhaust at .007" and LH exhaust at .004" I just set both exhausts to .007" and we'll see how that does.

[Lucky Phil]

24 minutes ago, Scud said:

It was the LH boot that burped off. I just found that the LH spark plug was loose (spun out by hand with only the socket) - and the LH exhaust valve was tight. Both intakes were at .005" RH exhaust at .007" and LH exhaust at .004" I just set both exhausts to .007" and we'll see how that does.

Hey Scud seeing you have the wave front disk and you need to replace the rear why not use one of these. Galfer P/N DF005W

https://www.vividracing.com/galfer-front-brake-disc-honda-silverwing-400-p-152495773.html

Ciao

[Scud]

Thanks Phil. Just ordered one of those - better performance, and probably a lot lighter than the stock Brembo. I've also got new brake lines, pads, and caliper rebuild kits on the way. Was thinking it would be a good time to refresh all the seals in the master cylinders too. Does anybody know if there are kits for rebuilding the master cylinders?

I rebuilt a set of calipers on my red LeMans and was astonished at the difference in feel. I think the rubber seals harden over time, and these V11s are about 20 years old.

[Lucky Phil]

5 hours ago, Scud said:

Thanks Phil. Just ordered one of those - better performance, and probably a lot lighter than the stock Brembo. I've also got new brake lines, pads, and caliper rebuild kits on the way. Was thinking it would be a good time to refresh all the seals in the master cylinders too. Does anybody know if there are kits for rebuilding the master cylinders?

I rebuilt a set of calipers on my red LeMans and was astonished at the difference in feel. I think the rubber seals harden over time, and these V11s are about 20 years old.

I seem to recall Brembo stopped selling rebuild kits for everything some time ago due to litigation issues and not being able to control the competency of the workmanship. I know I couldn't get one for the front master on my 1198 and had to buy a complete new assy. I "think" it affects our bikes also.Somebody had issues getting a rear master kit from memory although the rear is available new and fairly inexpensive. Earlier seals are still around for stuff from the 80's and early 90's I think.   

Ciao

[Scud]

Thanks - So MG Cycle sells kits to rebuild the rear master, but not the clutch or front brake. Although they sell kits for clutch and front brake masters on other models, just not the V11s. I've ordered a rear kit and will leave the clutch and front master alone for now.

Even the caliper kits are getting hard to find. I got them from the UK.

[Guzzimax]

15 hours ago, Scud said:

It was the LH boot that burped off. I just found that the LH spark plug was loose (spun out by hand with only the socket) - and the LH exhaust valve was tight. Both intakes were at .005" RH exhaust at .007" and LH exhaust at .004" I just set both exhausts to .007" and we'll see how that does.

Last year I replaced the intake boots on both my 1999 Silver V11 & 2003 “grape ape” V11. I noticed deep hairline cracking in the rubber boots and didn’t want the cracks progressing and causing air leaks so fitted new boots 

interesting point about the Ohlins steering damper. I’ll check my Rosso Corsa to see if it’s a Bitubo or Ohlins

[docc]

Yep, the "hairline" cracks on the intake rubbers are commonly superficial.

Until they are not . . .

(Still hoping my months-old Harper backorder will, one day, come through . . .  )

[Tomchri]

Or a 3 world country will come to rescue    Probably obtainably here.

Cheers Tom.