Nero Corsa Discovery and Refresh

[Scud]

...and here's another weird one. The fuel door ring was cracked. Never seen that before. But it looks better in black anyway. It's a little tricky to get the thing properly seated and aligned, and I suppose you could crack it by tightening one of the four bolts that actually does something before fully seating it. (3 of the top bolts are just for looks). Maybe it could have gotten cracked with some extreme force backward against the open fuel door. 

[PJPR01]

The gas cap looks very nice...bought it that way or had it powder coated or painted?

[Scud]

It's one of many things I had powder coated for a previous project that have come in handy on this one instead. Same with the top triple clamp.

[Scud]

For powder-coating the rear wheel, do we remove the large sleeve? Bearings and inner spacer are out. The sleeve has a big spring clamp on the other side, which I removed, but the large sleeve seems to have been pressed in. The parts diagram shows it as a separate part, but the shop manual does not show how to remove it. 

[Lucky Phil]

43 minutes ago, Scud said:

For powder-coating the rear wheel, do we remove the large sleeve? Bearings and inner spacer are out. The sleeve has a big spring clamp on the other side, which I removed, but the large sleeve seems to have been pressed in. The parts diagram shows it as a separate part, but the shop manual does not show how to remove it. 

Thats sleeve Scud will be an interference/shrink fit in the wheel. Just leave it and mask it off or get the PC to mask it off with his high temp masking tape.

Ciao

[VtwinStorm]

11 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:

Thats sleeve Scud will be an interference/shrink fit in the wheel. Just leave it and mask it off or get the PC to mask it off with his high temp masking tape.

Ciao

Experts like this really make our forum amazing.

You kick ass, Lucky Phil.

[Scud]

Small update. Getting the Rizoma tanks, Spiegler hydraulic lines (black, of course) and Pazzo shorty levers installed. 

Speedhut is redoing the gauges... still waiting.

I managed to destroy one bolt (and damage the other 5) on the cush drive side of the rear wheel and rounded 4 out of 6 on the brake side (despite plenty of heat and penetrating oil). The bolts that did come out had heaps of loc-tite residue - so I got help at a local machine shop. Now the wheels and bunch of other stuff are at the powder-coaters. 

I think I will have some play-time this weekend.

A question:

How important is it to replace the exhaust gaskets? I ask because I recall them being devilishly tricky to remove. I have new gaskets and I have a set of older pipes without the front crossover. Any tricks to getting the old exhaust gaskets out?

 

[docc]

If they don't leak, why mess with them?

Pretty sure mine are an integral part of the head by now . . .

[footgoose]

22 minutes ago, Scud said:

Any tricks to getting the old exhaust gaskets out?

I use a tool my Dad made for the job ages ago. An ice pick, which he heated and bent the tip in a small 90deg bend, about 1/4". Proving once again... Dad's are great!, and manage to help out long after they're gone.

[Chuck]

Seems like I used a cotter pin remover..

https://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-13228-Pick-Cotter-Puller/dp/B074KQY27K/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=cotter+pin+removal+tool&qid=1643414281&sr=8-10

Mine happens to say Snap On on it, but this one appears to be similar.

[Scud]

1 hour ago, docc said:

If they don't leak, why mess with them?

Pretty sure mine are an integral part of the head by now . . .

My thought was that since I am switching headers it might be a good idea to replace the gaskets. And for some reason, I already had a pair of gaskets on hand.

[Scud]

2 hours ago, Chuck said:

Seems like I used a cotter pin remover..

https://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-13228-Pick-Cotter-Puller/dp/B074KQY27K/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=cotter+pin+removal+tool&qid=1643414281&sr=8-10

Mine happens to say Snap On on it, but this one appears to be similar.

I have a tool like that. Took out the gaskets in 5 seconds each. DONE.

[Tomchri]

Easy to forget retighten those pretty Jag 6 head nuts. I have some in stock now  

Cheers Tom.

[Scud]

Well... I am certainly not going about this project in the optimal order. After getting a lot of stuff "finalized" on the bars I remembered to check the steering bearings. They had a spot where they settled. The bottom bearing was almost totally dry and felt crunchy rotating it by hand. And look at the wear pattern in the race. New bearings, along with a better steering damper, should be a big improvement for handling and safety.

[NicoNZ]

On 12/30/2021 at 11:14 AM, Scud said:

Here is the remote clutch bleeder, successfully installed. Good thing too, as the bleeder valve was rounded off and would have been a PITA later. This is simply the line from a CARC bike, I noticed it on my 2017 Stelvio, so that's what used to place the order with Harpers. They identify it as "Float Chamber Clutch Pipe" part # 05606630.  It was $70 - but next time I flush the fluid I am going to be happy I installed it. It uses the same banjo bolt as the Brembo brake calipers (and two washers).

Final routing TBD, but the Stelvio has it up under the seat near the battery.

Update: final routing for the clutch bleeder hose is under the frame, then along side the big positive cable from battery to starter. It terminates near the battery tray. Should make for super-simple, one-person clutch fluid flushing.

That's one mod I am definitely doing when the rear wheel needs a new tyre.