Nero Corsa Discovery and Refresh

[Rox Lemans]

On 1/12/2022 at 4:48 PM, docc said:

Yep, the "hairline" cracks on the intake rubbers are commonly superficial.

Until they are not . . .

(Still hoping my months-old Harper backorder will, one day, come through . . .  )

My Scura's did that. Started with a cough. Thought maybe I needed a thottlebody synch but at a closer look... 

 

It IS 20 year old rubber... Help up pretty well for be being a bike that spent its life in dry weather its entire life..

[Scud]

Wheels and bar-end weights in gloss black... and two boxes of goodies in flat black...

[docc]

Makes mySport look like a tired, but willing, truck-stop tramp . . . .

Welldone, there, @Scud!

[Scud]

New steering bearings are in. That's my second time doing them - it's really quite fun with the freezing of the steering stem, heating up the bearing, dropping it in place and then seeing it pressure fit. But it's a one-shot deal. If it doesn't go all the way down, you're probably hosed. And seating the races in the frame is fun.

Had the lower triple clamp powder coated, along with the fairing frame, dash panel, and various brackets and baubles. Really happy with the powder-coat gloss-black bar-end weights. They were peeling a bit and now they look better than new. Test fit the Speedhuts for entertainment value.

And question time... the Ohlins damper bracket is rubbing on the plastic air dam. I don't recall that being the case on my previous LeMans. Do they all do that? I checked the parts diagrams and can't find anything I did wrong. It doesn't seem to affect the operation, since the bracket only moves a little in relation to the plastic part. But if I missed something, I'd like to correct it.

And another question... this one is just curiosity, not a problem to solve. Earlier in this thread I asked about removing the center of the rear wheel. I assumed it would come out since there is a huge spring clip that appears to be holding it in place. I had to spend some time with the Dremel removing powder so the spring clip would seat properly. But I found myself wondering why that spring clip is there at all. Can somebody explain the rationale behind this spring clip?

 

[Scud]

...and the wheels bearings finally arrived. All Balls bearings were way less expensive than any other option, so worth the wait to have a roller again. Isn't it amazing how much extra garage space you need when the wheels, tank, exhaust, and bodywork are off?

All brake lines replaced, and all calipers rebuilt. Rear master also rebuilt - the spring was noticeably compressed and weaker than the replacement part. New Galfer rear rotor, new carbon front fender. Brakes still feel mushy, so there must be some more bubbles hiding in there. I like how the Arashi rotor carriers match the Brembo calipers. The Brembo carriers are a different shade of gold.

Now she's back on the lift new to finish her spa treatment.

I'm digging the glossy black wheels - good fit for the Nero Corsa.

 

I think open pipes are cool... maybe I'll get a denim vest with a huge patch that reads "Loud pipes save lives"

[ScuRoo]

Any current thinking plans for those airbox openings - extensions, stock, Phil A’s teardrops…?

[Scud]

I removed the stock rubber snorkels.  I'm tempted to bell the inlets like Docc did. What are Phil A's teardrops?

[Lucky Phil]

On 2/13/2022 at 12:47 PM, Scud said:

New steering bearings are in. That's my second time doing them - it's really quite fun with the freezing of the steering stem, heating up the bearing, dropping it in place and then seeing it pressure fit. But it's a one-shot deal. If it doesn't go all the way down, you're probably hosed. And seating the races in the frame is fun.

Had the lower triple clamp powder coated, along with the fairing frame, dash panel, and various brackets and baubles. Really happy with the powder-coat gloss-black bar-end weights. They were peeling a bit and now they look better than new. Test fit the Speedhuts for entertainment value.

And question time... the Ohlins damper bracket is rubbing on the plastic air dam. I don't recall that being the case on my previous LeMans. Do they all do that? I checked the parts diagrams and can't find anything I did wrong. It doesn't seem to affect the operation, since the bracket only moves a little in relation to the plastic part. But if I missed something, I'd like to correct it.

And another question... this one is just curiosity, not a problem to solve. Earlier in this thread I asked about removing the center of the rear wheel. I assumed it would come out since there is a huge spring clip that appears to be holding it in place. I had to spend some time with the Dremel removing powder so the spring clip would seat properly. But I found myself wondering why that spring clip is there at all. Can somebody explain the rationale behind this spring clip?

 

Guzzi belt and braces. The sleeve installs from the drive side and the circlip is security in case it's interference fit ever degrades but it also supports the sleeve from getting displaced when big stupid apes with lump hammers fit disk side wheel bearings. You know who you are.

For the Ohlins damper try fitting an oring around the spherical bearing to limit it's ability to flop around and stop it hanging. You choose a dia and cross section that goes around the outer half of the bearing and rides on the inside of the bracket so when the steering is turned and the spherical ball rotates to compensate for the angular displacement it also compresses the oring and keeps the whole thing firm but still moveable/flexible.

Ciao  

[MartyNZ]

13 hours ago, Scud said:

I removed the stock rubber snorkels.  

I'm going to experiment with 45-63mm reducing silicon rubber elbows. 63 is too big to fit in there but may work after trimming to fit. I like the idea of long induction pipes to help collect cool air ahead of the engine. A downward bend should reduce the road spray, grit, and bumblebees getting to the filter.

[ScuRoo]

On 2/22/2022 at 1:17 PM, Scud said:

I removed the stock rubber snorkels.  I'm tempted to bell the inlets like Docc did. What are Phil A's teardrops?

Scud - let it sink in…

 

[Scud]

Those teardrop holes do seem logical - and a I have a spare airbox lid that I can modify, and keep the stocker in case I don't like it. But it sure seems that the effort of expanding the inlets is a waste of time if you add the holes on the top.

Some funny stuff, and some well reasoned stuff in that thread. One funny (to me) comment was - "...30mm snorkels won't supply 50mm throttle bodies. That is a no-brainer."  And it seems brains were, in fact, not used for that statement. If you reason it out, a piston only draws air on one of four strokes. A 30mm intake is open 100% of the time, while a 50mm throttle body is drawing air only 25% of the time... so the math works. The purpose of the large airbox is to have sufficient volume of air already past the filter, and the bikes still run just fine with the snorkels smaller than the throttle bodies.

Will I do the teardrops? Marginal increase is peak power? meh; I don't ride that hard. Smooth out a flat spot, OK. But do they make a cooler induction noise with the snorkels removed and the teardrops? If yes, then I am all-in.

[docc]

I really do enjoy the intake "aria" of my bell-mouthed intakes (no snorkels or lid holes). To be fair, I spent much of the time reshaping,  evening out, and opening up, the constrictions up inside those intakes maybe 2-3". I didn't get mine belled out to 50mm like PhilA (ran out of beer), but have been super pleased with the outcome.

My result:

@Phil A's:

One of PhilA's compelling posts:

 

[Scud]

Gauges are in place... but wiring to be done...

Today, I fussed with the stock gauge cup and used household lamp fixture parts to position the little bushings where they would otherwise be on the ITI gauges. Superglue for brass cap-nut on the gauge. 80mm O-rings on each side of the gauges so they won't rattle.

Last time I did this on a 2003 LeMans, I also installed a voltmeter and oil pressure gauge. Even though it was cool to have four matching gauges, they were kind of spendy and it was a real mess to wire it up. This time, I am hoping to get everything to fit inside the stock gauge cups (including the little cube inverter that powers the lights. Only two extra wires should come out alongside the stock harness - the constant power for GPS memory and the GPS input signal.

[footgoose]

beautiful dash! nice fabrication

[Scud]

I had to take the dash off so I could work on the whole assembly on the bench and get all the wires to fit inside the stock gauge cups. Here is how I finally organized everything so it would fit.

and the back view of the finished product.

I saved 5 minutes by not fully reading the instructions for how to set the tach, then wasted a couple hours of rework. 

But in the end, goal accomplished... The push-button is for resetting the trip meter.