V11 bevelbox, (Again!)

[Guest redguzziv10]

just putting my experience up as comparison...

last year i bought a 99 model V11 with serious rear bearing problems, the outside needle bearing was shot, and fell to pieces when i took it out, as was the spacer, pictured by Paul Minneart. in fact, that was severly corroded, and in three pieces when i pulled it out.

When comparing it to the 2003 model, i found the only difference was the extra washer / spacer on the outside, i added a 0.5mm penny washer, packed the whole thing with grease and gave it a go - job done!

Getting the bearings out on the front of the swing arm? - now that was a bitch!

[rossoandy]

just get the swingarm out, should be enough

Ye i think it will, trouble is...bike supported by paddock stand under rear swing arm at moment!!

ffs why could'nt Guzzi made drive shaft slide through that hole!!!

thanks fer advice Paul.

[Paul Minnaert]

that won't work when you take porkshops off:-) this is where the original guzzi workshop stand works fine.

[moto pierre]

That piques my curiosity. I have a 2000 and had the swingarm off for painting (why is it black anyway?) When I pulled the rear wheel I found a large washer, and I am pretty sure it was inside, between the inner side of the small needle bearing in the housing that allows it to swivel on the axle and the spacer between the bevel housing and the wheel spline. Now that seemed like a weird place for a large diameter thin washer, but I put it back the same way. Perhaps that washer was actually meant to be on the outside between the bevel housing and the swing arm to help exclude water. This bike had been bodged badly before I got it, so I don't really trust anything I find. Should that thin washer be on the outside? It is not plated and would certainly rust out there. I found no dirt or water damage despite 23K miles. Also, how much gap should I see between the bevel housing and the wheel?

[Guest ratchethack]

Perhaps that washer was actually meant to be on the outside between the bevel housing and the swing arm to help exclude water. This bike had been bodged badly before I got it, so I don't really trust anything I find. Should that thin washer be on the outside? It is not plated and would certainly rust out there. I found no dirt or water damage despite 23K miles.

Yep, you nailed it exactly. It goes on the outboard side of the bevel box. I'd expect it to help keep water out, but can't imagine wot the consequences (if any) of putting it in between the wheel and bevel box might be?

Also, how much gap should I see between the bevel housing and the wheel?

Hm. If I understand the question correctly, on the outside, looking at the gap between the "pie plate" cover on the cush drive hub from the rear of the mounted wheel, you should see about a 1 mm gap between the "pie plate" and the bevel box casting.

 

Hope this helps.

[moto pierre]

I'll be taking the wheel off tonight and moving the washer to the outside. Perhaps that will also reduce the gap between the pieplate and housing which is a bit more than the 1 mm you mentioned. Thanks!!!

Moto Pierre

[raz]

My needle roller bearing is so bad I didn't even realize there should be a bearing there until I read this and had a closer look.

 

Now I'm trying to remove the crownwheel cover. After removing the eight bolts, the cover remains stuck. What should I do, where can I put force without ruining something? No text I've googled up mentions anything about this. Maybe I'm just too timid?

[richard100t]

My needle roller bearing is so bad I didn't even realize there should be a bearing there until I read this and had a closer look.

 

Now I'm trying to remove the crownwheel cover. After removing the eight bolts, the cover remains stuck. What should I do, where can I put force without ruining something? No text I've googled up mentions anything about this. Maybe I'm just too timid?

That cover does'nt come off easily so dont worry its not just you. I'll let someone who's managed to get one off tell you how to do it. My old one has been sitting in the basement for almost two years now. I got as far as you are now & just said the hell with it lol.

[pasotibbs]

I'd removed the oil drain plug as there may be some slight suction resisting the movement (it certainly makes a sucking sound when it is lifted clear)then find the thicker parts of the final drive casting and using 2 big screwdrivers on opposite sides gently lever the crown wheel cover.I was convinced the casting was going to break but took my time and got it in the end.You could try tapping the cover clockwise or counter clockwise to break the seal that could be how I finally got it free, once it starts to move it comes off easily, I think the metal shim/gasket bonds to the alloy as it corrodes (it certainly was corroded on mine)

 

hope this helps

[belfastguzzi]

I haven't been following this thread, but on a quick look now, I think that this is the washer you are talking about.

 

 

 

There was quite a bit of discussion before about the troubles with the needle roller, including is it better to use an outer ring with the drilled hole or without it (does it let water out, or allow water in?)... and so on.

 

I wrapped the assembly in self-sealing tape to waterproof it (the bearing – swingarm interface). Seems to work.

[richard100t]

I'd removed the oil drain plug as there may be some slight suction resisting the movement (it certainly makes a sucking sound when it is lifted clear)then find the thicker parts of the final drive casting and using 2 big screwdrivers on opposite sides gently lever the crown wheel cover.I was convinced the casting was going to break but took my time and got it in the end.You could try tapping the cover clockwise or counter clockwise to break the seal that could be how I finally got it free, once it starts to move it comes off easily, I think the metal shim/gasket bonds to the alloy as it corrodes (it certainly was corroded on mine)

 

hope this helps

Well mine has been sitting in the basement almost two years now. I read this post & went down with two screwdrivers as suggested & it popped right up & off. The metal shim under mine is pretty rusty as well. I'm going to wipe up the oil from its inside & take some pics.

[pasotibbs]

Well mine has been sitting in the basement almost two years now. I read this post & went down with two screwdrivers as suggested & it popped right up & off. The metal shim under mine is pretty rusty as well. I'm going to wipe up the oil from its inside & take some pics.

 

Its worth checking for play in the Pinion nose bearing while your there.

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...=9794&st=15

 

then you'll have a decent spare should you need it.

[richard100t]

Its worth checking for play in the Pinion nose bearing while your there.

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...=9794&st=15

 

then you'll have a decent spare should you need it.

Well since my pinion gear had snapped off I'm not too worried about the old piece. Once I'm able to get it out I can take it to a local gear shop & have a new pinion gear made. Right now I'm wishing I had Pete Ropers very clever tool he made to get the castellated thing off.

[raz]

I'd removed the oil drain plug as there may be some slight suction resisting the movement (it certainly makes a sucking sound when it is lifted clear)then find the thicker parts of the final drive casting and using 2 big screwdrivers on opposite sides gently lever the crown wheel cover.I was convinced the casting was going to break but took my time and got it in the end.You could try tapping the cover clockwise or counter clockwise to break the seal that could be how I finally got it free, once it starts to move it comes off easily, I think the metal shim/gasket bonds to the alloy as it corrodes (it certainly was corroded on mine)

 

hope this helps

There has been lots of water in here so it's probably corrosion. There appears to be liquid gasket on the cover but it may just be dirt. The pinion stuff is out so there's no suction. It's not easy to get any grip with a screwdriver. I have tapped it gently in all directions with a hammer. I also tried putting some force from the inside, with a ratchet handle (covered with hard rubber) through where the pinion stuff sat and pushing on the crown wheel. I think this is the best way but I have to figure out a combination of soft enough yet hard enough lever, and something to lean it against. Also, I start to think it's time to buy that heat gun...

[richard100t]

I'll try & post some pics here.

 

Ok heres another (I hope)

 

Now that I've gotten the thing out on the table, does anyone have some advice on how to get the pinion nut off? It has an indentation in it to hold it tight I suppose. I've tried to pry it loose with a very small screwdriver, but no luck. I'm not going to try & force it either. Although since I'm wanting to have a new gear made, I doubt that damaging the old one will matter much.