V11 bevelbox, (Again!)

[richard100t]

My rear drive was leaking pretty badly coming through on the right side. It was running down the side of the drive & getting all over the rim & tire. Well I called my local dealer & he told me it was probably the outer seal needed replaced. Anyway I took the rear drive off my bike because I didnt want to ride it the 60 miles like that. It was a simple 5 minute (if that) swap. Its the large rubber type seal on the inside near what I guess is called the crown.

Anyway I got the bike put back together & no more leaking at all. The part was $35 & I would recomend that anyone with a leaking rear drive replace that part first before going to more extreme & expensive measures.

P.S. I'm not positive on what the rubber seal is called..I called it the outer seal but if someone knows the "official" name of it I'd appreciate it if they put it in here for other members to know.

[pete roper]

You can usually tell if it is the 'Big' seal one the wheel side of the box or the smaller, harder to get at internal seal on the swingarm side of the box by looking at a.) where the oil is coming from and, b.) examining the box once the wheel is removed.

 

If there is oil coming out around the spindle nut on the swingarm side of the box it is most likely the internal seal. Also if when the wheel is off you can see fresh oil running down the internal, splined for the wheel, part of the crownwheel this too indicates an internal seal failure and that requires taking the box to bits. If however it is simply coming out between the bevelbox and the wheel it is most likely just the large seal that you have replaced. simple answer, if it's cured you'fe replaced the right seal!

 

It might be worth your while removing and cleaning the box breather, (The little mushroom shaped thing at the top.) seals usually blow due to over-pressurisation. If the breather is clogged it'll do it again.

 

When you put the box back on the bike did you;

 

a.) Make sure the driveshaft was properly aligned? (This is VERY important!)

 

b.) Check, clean and grease the wretched needle roller that lives in the swingarm side housing of the bevelbox.

 

Pete

[richard100t]

You can usually tell if it is the 'Big' seal one the wheel side of the box or the smaller, harder to get at internal seal on the swingarm side of the box by looking at a.) where the oil is coming from and, b.) examining the box once the wheel is removed.

 

If there is oil coming out around the spindle nut on the swingarm side of the box it is most likely the internal seal. Also if when the wheel is off you can see fresh oil running down the internal, splined for the wheel, part of the crownwheel this too indicates an internal seal failure and that requires taking the box to bits. If however it is simply coming out between the bevelbox and the wheel it is most likely just the large seal that you have replaced. simple answer, if it's cured you'fe replaced the right seal!

 

It might be worth your while removing and cleaning the box breather, (The little mushroom shaped thing at the top.) seals usually blow due to over-pressurisation. If the breather is clogged it'll do it again.

 

When you put the box back on the bike did you;

 

a.) Make sure the driveshaft was properly aligned? (This is VERY important!)

 

b.) Check, clean and grease the wretched needle roller that lives in the swingarm side housing of the bevelbox.

 

Pete

A) I did make sure the driveshaft was aligned

I did grease the needle roller & the inside portion of the bevel

It didnt have redline on the left hand side or the nut side, only the bevel side. It had redline all over the spindle or axle if you like.

It was also running down the side of the box as well.

My guess is that my seal was probably really gone bad to the point that the redline was just going everywhere.

I've put a good 50 miles on the bike since the new seal & no leakage yet

I also cleaned the box breather & I know it works because after my test riding there was a small amount of redline fluid that came out of it.

I think the point that I wanted to make is that if your box is leaking, try just replacing the cheap easy to get to seal first. The inner seal that Pete is speaking of is a very expensive one to replace labor wise.

[rex007can]

I just saw this thread while looking for the location of the front grease nipple on the shaft.

 

That being said... it immediately reminded me of my the guy I used to use when I needed work on my old beemer. He ran his business under Rubber Chicken Racing Garage...

[nuevototem]

Hi Paul and everyone!

 

I found that I have some mm of play in the pinion rear end bevel.

 

I see that some change the inner needle bearing.

 

So with that change the pinion play desapear completely?

 

Do I have to worry about this pinion play?

 

Thanks and best regards to all!

[Lucky Phil]

I have 2 low mileage bevel boxes and both have play in the front bearing. adjusting the ring nut didnt have any impact on the play. Have used both of them and it doesnt seem to be an issue but when I rebuild the spare if a new bearing doesnt remove the play I will attempt to shim it out with some home made shims if possible.

To check whether the play is in the small internal needle bearing or the outer needle/ball hybrid just grip the input shaft and apply a longitudinal rotational force to it to load up the inner bearing then at the same time try to move the shaft up and down vertically.

If you can still feel play at the end you are gripping then the play is in the outer bearing,if not its the inner.Both mine are in the outer bearing and from memory I calculated it at around 0.0015" radial which I can live with. 

I'd rather it be less but it is what it is.

Ciao

[nuevototem]

Hi to all,

 

Is it possible to change the pinion small needle bearing easily?

 

Best regards

[Lucky Phil]

Hi to all,

Is it possible to change the pinion small needle bearing easily?

Best regards

No

 

Ciao

[kglm]

..not perfect but better than original : o-ring 2.5mm ,under that dremel modifed sideplate from old front wheel bearing.

 

 

 

 

-KG- 

[80CX100]

       I was searching for info in some recent posts by Docc on the outboard needle bearing located on the rear axle assembly and stumbled across this gem posted by the man himself over a decade and a half ago.

       I'm giving this a bump just in case someone else is working on or planning to work around the bevel box; the information and tips by Pete and many others is worth it's weight in gold.

       Tks to Jaap for patiently ensuring that Pete's original post was documented completely with photos back in 2004, and to this day, maintains this great resource site for the benefit of all spiney owners.

        

             

       

     

       

[docc]

Pretty sure this ought to get pinned in "How to . . ."

[There. Done. Thanks @pete roper for the thread and @80CX100 for the bump!]

[80CX100]

1 hour ago, docc said:

Pretty sure this ought to get pinned in "How to . . ."

[There. Done. Thanks @pete roper for the thread and @80CX100 for the bump!]

Tks Docc,  It's very evident when I start ripping through all the info, you've done an amazing job behind the scenes compiling the information and the links so it can be retrieved.

      I've read a ton of really good info and tips but I've yet to confirm what I started out searching for, lol.

      If I knock off that outside big washer on the Bevel Box, does that inner sleeve from the needle roller bearing pop out without too much drama, and relatively straight forward to rotate the bearing and regrease, or am I likely to end up with a bunch of needle rollers on my garage floor if the job goes sideways?

     Tia

     

[docc]

Yep, the big washer pops off, the inner sleeve slides out, and the caged needle rollers stay pressed in, but can be cleaned, rotated to a new position and liberally greased.