Renewing pork chops (side plates)

[FreyZI]

On 2/3/2022 at 12:50 AM, Twin AH said:

Wow ............. that's parts off the Titanic............

Hoping those old pork chops will come out well enough to migrate to the Tenni.  Then I can move the ones currently on the Tenni over to the champagne.  However, I (mostly -- more on that below) got the dark silver pork chop on the bike today.  I set the side cover on to mock up the finished product.

Though I love the "raw" pork chops, these well done chops look quite dapper with the champagne color scheme, IMHO.

Just one problem: the pork chop fit is just a bit off.  After wire-brushing the spine's T end flange that receives the plate, I put the plate on and tightened up the 4 bolts to the flange.  I then snugged the top bolt for the rear (seat) subframe, followed by the bottom nut for the transverse bar.  Now I have about 1.15 millimeters between the pork chop and the lower frame attachment point (the connector being the double-duty shoulder bolt/"pin" that also serves as the pivot for the brake lever.

I tried to hold the light directly under that point to give an idea of the space between the two.  Measured with feeler gauge at ~1.15 mm.

Question:  Have you encountered a less than perfect fit at this frame mounting point?  If so, did you shim it with a washer?  I thought tightening the bolt would easily take up that gap, but I didn't want to overdo it.  I have checked the other connections and I am happy with them -- nice flush fit against the circular frame flange and other points.

Suggestions?

Thanks.

 

[Scud]

The sliver plates look great. Subtle, understated, classy.

Maybe loosen everything again, including the bolts on the front of the subframe that go into the engine block. Jiggle the subframe and plates a bit so it settles into an ideal position. When installing the plates I like to get everything in loose first, including the brake pedal pivot. Then take a few passes on all the frame plate fasteners, gradually increasing tightness. As a final step, tighten the bolts back into upper subframe (seat support) and the engine block. The long arms to the block will flex more than any other part of the subframe, tightening those last allows you to perfectly position the main section between the plates.

[docc]

+1 what Scud said ^^ about grooming the fasteners and de-stressing the entire assembly. There is a very similar procedure to "settle" the exhaust system.

Well, plus one more on how nice those frame side plates look on the champagne!

[FreyZI]

14 hours ago, Scud said:

Maybe loosen everything again,

Thanks.

Loosened.  Will try snugging everything down slowly and doing seat subframe and long arms to engine block last.  Of note, when I took it things apart, there was no washer (#6, below) between the shoulder bolt (#5) and the pork chop.  I gather that one is necessary to get a tight fit with the subframe there.  Anybody know the thickness of that washer off hand?  I saw a site that appeared to indicate it's 3mm thick.  Really?

 

[Lucky Phil]

1 hour ago, FreyZI said:

Thanks.

Loosened.  Will try snugging everything down slowly and doing seat subframe and long arms to engine block last.  Of note, when I took it things apart, there was no washer (#6, below) between the shoulder bolt (#5) and the pork chop.  I gather that one is necessary to get a tight fit with the subframe there.  Anybody know the thickness of that washer off hand?  I saw a site that appeared to indicate it's 3mm thick.  Really?

 

The washer is there so the shoulder of the bolt tightens down on a flat steel face and not the alloy pork chop and also as a surface for the brake pivot bush and housing to bear against. Cant remember off hand but 3mm sounds about right.

 

Ciao   

[Scud]

Your Tenni should have the same washer. It's an uncommon size. I didn't mail your shift springs yet, so if I have a spare washer, I'll toss it in.

[FreyZI]

On 2/6/2022 at 9:57 AM, Scud said:

Your Tenni should have the same washer. It's an uncommon size. I didn't mail your shift springs yet, so if I have a spare washer, I'll toss it in.

The Tenni doesn't have this washer.  I believe PO (x2) had advertised this Tenni as having "expensive" aftermarket foot controls.  I have no idea if the "expensive" part is true.

Works well and looks tasteful.

It will be good to have the chops back from the powder coater and an excuse to take the Tenni apart for a good cleaning and polishing.

Let me know if you have a spare washer, @Scud.  Otherwise, I'll go to Ace and pick something up (maybe sister a couple washers).

[FreyZI]

On 2/3/2022 at 3:36 PM, Guzzimax said:

I’ve had 2 sets of pork chops powder coated at a local powder coating shop. They shot blasted the old finish off, and masked the threads with excellent results. Much more durable than the original red paint (these are off red frame bikes), and no issues with longevity. This one was done 2 years ago and it’s pristine 

Is that a hammer I see?

So, I was driving past the powdercoater today and stopped in to see how they were doing with my porkchops.  They have now stripped the chops three times because they can't get a good result.  Gotta give them credit for trying hard.  Hope to update on progress this time next week.  I think they'll just shoot some scrap first.  Good thing this is the spare set of chops and it's not going to keep the Tenni or Bubbles off the road.

[FreyZI]

Stopped by powdercoater today to check out the new color: Prismatic's "rancher red" over silver.  This photograph didn't capture it very well -- I think the color is very close.  The question now is whether to put a satin clear on top.  Think I'll take the Tenni out there tomorrow and compare.  I'm thinking the satin.

[docc]

10 hours ago, FreyZI said:

Stopped by powdercoater today to check out the new color: Prismatic's "rancher red" over silver.  This photograph didn't capture it very well -- I think the color is very close.  The question now is whether to put a satin clear on top.  Think I'll take the Tenni out there tomorrow and compare.  I'm thinking the satin.

WOW, @FreyZI, you saved those parts from the trash heap . . .