Charging Light

[dbarb3]

wow this regulator is buried in a bad spot to access

[docc]

2 hours ago, dbarb3 said:

wow this regulator is buried in a bad spot to access

                   On the 2002 Le Mans, yes!

[dbarb3]

Im assuming this is the culprit looking at regulator

 

Where do I get a different brand replacement it is the old style

[docc]

There is an alternative that grounds back to the battery and eliminates the "battery" warning light (if your V11 has one; later harness eliminated the light).

I still use the OEM type I get from EuroMotoElectric (pretty sure they have the other type, as well). Certainly, the regulator case absolutely must be grounded to the engine case (or clear back to the battery).

Someone smart will be along to detail the regulator alternative to the OEM . . .

[Kiwi_Roy]

This is the one I used, the ESR510, it completely eliminates the flakey Voltage reference. One thing to be aware of though it does draw a tiny current from the battery that will drain it down over the winter. You can eliminate this current by pulling the fuse over winter but you'd better remember to replace it in the spring, don't ask me how I know.

Electrosport say,"Because many older Ducati's suffer from poor wire connections in the wiring harness we designed the ESR510 to have output wires that are connected directly to the battery terminals. The lead wires also have a 20A fuse inline for security"

They also have a plug and pray model the ESR515 but I couldn't wait to get rid of the unreliable Voltage reference down from the headlight relay.

 

[Kiwi_Roy]

On 2/18/2022 at 6:41 AM, dbarb3 said:

here is the little bit know I know

Changed out relay 2  no change

Tach not working, headlight on

Charging light not lit Of course it doesn't work when you need it to, it needs 12 Volts from the headlight relay to turn it on.

Battery engine off  12.15  Engine running  11.5 

Obviously not charging,  check wiring at alternator next??

 

 

From page 1

I couldn't figure out why the Tach had stopped but the headlight was still on (the tach is fed from the headlight relay), then I remembered perhaps you have after market headlight relays which bypass the OEM headlight relay.

[bbolesaz]

7 hours ago, Kiwi_Roy said:

One thing to be aware of though it does draw a tiny current from the battery that will drain it down over the winter.

I installed the ESR515.  Here in the valley of the sunstroke, it drains the battery in a few weeks.  I'm planning to install a new relay switched with the key to break the red line when shut down.

[Kiwi_Roy]

7 hours ago, bbolesaz said:

I installed the ESR515.  Here in the valley of the sunstroke, it drains the battery in a few weeks.  I'm planning to install a new relay switched with the key to break the red line when shut down.

A good idea

But actually doesn't the 515 connect to the headlight circuit just as the original Ducati energy did?

The headlight circuit already has the relay, I could put my VII Sport away at the end of summer and start right up again in the spring, no battery tender required.

[Lucky Phil]

20 minutes ago, Kiwi_Roy said:

A good idea

But actually doesn't the 515 connect to the headlight circuit just as the original Ducati energy did?

The headlight circuit already has the relay, I could put my VII Sport away at the end of summer and start right up again in the spring, no battery tender required.

The ecu draws unswitched or un relayed current from the battery so the battery drains no matter what you do.

Ciao 

[Kiwi_Roy]

On 3/3/2022 at 8:34 PM, Lucky Phil said:

The ecu draws unswitched or un relayed current from the battery so the battery drains no matter what you do.

Ciao 

The ECU drain is only microamps, the 525 regulator shouldn't draw anything from the OEM wiring because it's connected downstream of the headlight relay. The black wire acts as a Voltage reference but it also powers up the electronics.

[dbarb3]

Problem child back again.  Installed the 525 and it is charging just fine.

Now I have an erratic idle after putting it all back together. I did the valves and fuel filter and air filter while tank was off.  Not that I would ever do this but would the fuel filter installed backwards cause this?

It idles perfectly at 1200 for about 5 seconds then jumps to 2000 for a couple seconds then 3000 and I kill it.

To make things even better my seat is stuck. I have read up on seat issue any ideas on idle issue?

Hopefully my barn doesn't catch on fire tonight.  

 

 

[leroysch]

Check this....make sure throttle cable isn't interfering with the linkage. (Had a similar experience.)

[dbarb3]

Checked cable routing , intake rubbers, fuel filter installation.  Petcock is flowing freely.  I found this little fellow under the tank, it routes out to the bottom of sump.  It seems to be a vacuum hose to something but would vent directly to the ground.

[O2 V11]

It could be either your tank vent or drain. There are two outlets on the bottom of the tank. One is a drain for any liquids that my be present around the filler ring and the other is a vent for any pressure that may build up inside the filler cap. If your bike originally was a CA spec one, the vent line would have been plumbed into the filter canister. This is generally removed and both lines a joined with a small joiner to the drain line and are discharged down at the rear of the sump. This is where the drain line is routed. For this I used a small garden irrigation  "Y". I am unsure how the vent system is structured on non CA spec bikes.

Rob

[dbarb3]

already have a line on both tank nipples, I'm grasping for straws cause this idle issue surely sounds like some type of vacuum/air issue