V11 Sport sat for a year or two on a battery tender but now won't start.

[thelonewonderer]

Hey all!

It's been a while since I've been on this forum. I got into an accident on my V11 right before the pandemic started and have been using my car to get around. Now, I need to start commuting on the bike again.

I have ridden it a few times here and there since the accident with no issues, then plugged the battery into a battery tender and commuted in by car. Over the past couple weeks the bike would start. I took it for a test ride today and everything seemed fine. Stopped to fuel up but after that the bike wouldn't start. At first, I was just getting clicking noises from the starter motor, but after awhile it wasn't making any noise, making me think it could be a power issue.

Luckily, I wasn't far from home, so I walked her back. I tested the battery and it's giving good readings and is now hooked back up to the tender. The fuel pump is engaging, but it just won't start. I've checked the fuses, all good. 

I am wondering if it could be the starter motor. I've never tested one before and I'm not quite sure how to do so. 

I'm hoping some of you awesome gurus could help me out in determining the issue. I've been through a lot with this bike (full engine rebuild, accident, etc.), and I would love to get her back on the road. 

I've never heard of a starter motor going bad after sitting still for a while, but I have a feeling that it's part of the problem. Then again, what do I know?

Looking forward to any and all advice the great people of this forum have to offer. 

 

 

[Bbennett]

OK I am no mechanic but I will jump in: Your battery may take a charge fine (in volts) but no longer have the cranking power (amps) to turn over the motor.  I really doubt it is the starter motor.  The clicking is "normal" in that you will hear it when battery cannot start the bike.  And after a while you will hear nothing if you keep trying it.

I would bump start the bike in 2nd gear and ride around for at least 20 min at >4K RPM which is approx the RPM needed on these bikes (typically) to charge the bike.  If the bike still won't start after that, I'd begin to suspect the battery even if the volts look good (> than approx 12.4).  And if the battery is bad, you must wonder why it went bad - could be the wrong charger or a failing/failed rectifier.

[docc]

Good to see you back @thelonewonderer!

What kind of battery is in your V11?

[thelonewonderer]

15 minutes ago, Bbennett said:

OK I am no mechanic but I will jump in: Your battery may take a charge fine (in volts) but no longer have the cranking power (amps) to turn over the motor.  I really doubt it is the starter motor.  The clicking is "normal" in that you will hear it when battery cannot start the bike.  And after a while you will hear nothing if you keep trying it.

I would bump start the bike in 2nd gear and ride around for at least 20 min at >4K RPM which is approx the RPM needed on these bikes (typically) to charge the bike.  If the bike still won't start after that, I'd begin to suspect the battery even if the volts look good (> than approx 12.4).  And if the battery is bad, you must wonder why it went bad - could be the wrong charger or a failing/failed rectifier.

Thank you for your response. I had it hooked up to a Battery Tender Junior, so maybe it wasn't getting enough juice while it sat.

[thelonewonderer]

6 minutes ago, docc said:

Good to see you back @thelonewonderer!

What kind of battery is in your V11?

Hey Docc! I was hoping to hear from you. I'm including a picture of the battery in this post. It's pretty old, but it has always been hooked up to a battery tender when not in use.

[docc]

I'm not familiar with that brand, but have heard of that country of origin.

You could take that by any auto parts store and they will load test it for you. There will be a date code on it somewhere.

That is certainly the likely culprit and an easy fix.

[thelonewonderer]

1 minute ago, docc said:

I'm not familiar with that brand, but have heard of that country of origin.

You could take that by any auto parts store and they will load test it for you. There will be a date code on it somewhere.

That is certainly the likely culprit and an easy fix.

Thanks for your help, as always!

I'm really hoping that it's just the battery.

[p6x]

@docc

When I read the OP's narrative, I think of what happened to me last year.

It could be a similar issue to mine, which is now just a memory that I tell while sitting around the fireplace.

[docc]

4 minutes ago, p6x said:

@docc

When I read the OP's narrative, I think of what happened to me last year.

It could be a similar issue to mine, which is now just a memory that I tell while sitting around the fireplace.

Indeed, @thelonewonderer's V11 is in the range of those that benefit from the added 6th Kiwi_Roy Relay to relieve the burden on the Ignition Switch.

The battery actually can be load tested on the bike:

Key off - an AGM battery is 100% at 12.84v and 50% at ~12.50v.

Key on /lights on - Good if the voltage stays above 12.0, but okay even above ~11.8.

Engage the starter (in your case only the solenoid) and look for values above 10v.

[po18guy]

Quick and dirty solution is a Yuasa or Deka AGM - both made in Pennsylvania, a place I've heard of. I had less than stellar luck with an Odyssey and I tend to think that a motorcycle is not its best application. Many others here will argue - but they do that anyway. For $20-$30 more than the generic Chinese batteries, you can employ (mostly) Americans to make your battery.  

[Tomchri]

As a tiny spare with me on the bike, is a piece of wire to connect directly starter solenoid and to  + battery. Tells you starter ok  and battery ok .

Cheers Tom.

[p6x]

3 hours ago, docc said:

Indeed, @thelonewonderer's V11 is in the range of those that benefit from the added 6th Kiwi_Roy Relay to relieve the burden on the Ignition Switch.

The battery actually can be load tested on the bike:

Key off - an AGM battery is 100% at 12.84v and 50% at ~12.50v.

Key on /lights on - Good if the voltage stays above 12.0, but okay even above ~11.8.

Engage the starter (in your case only the solenoid) and look for values above 10v.

One tattle tale, or tell tale, would be blowing that 15 amps fuse if staying with the start button depressed too long.

[thelonewonderer]

Thank you all for commenting on this thread. I love this community.

Thanks for welcoming me back after a couple of years!

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

[Weegie]

I've been debating if I should purchase one of these Lithium minature jump start packs or the Super Capacitor version just in case.

Could be attached to the lead from the battery to the starter, at the starter with the neg onto wherever on the engine or gearbox

@Tomchri idea is a good one too, just make sure it's quite a beefy wire, I've used a wrench and a screwdriver in the past and the spark it makes on connection is impressive.

Oh and stating the bleedin' obvious, FFS make sure the bike's in neutral by wheeling it to check, NEVER rely on "The gearbox is in the vicinty of neutral" warning light

[po18guy]

On 5/7/2022 at 10:47 AM, Weegie said:

I've been debating if I should purchase one of these Lithium minature jump start packs or the Super Capacitor version just in case.

Could be attached to the lead from the battery to the starter, at the starter with the neg onto wherever on the engine or gearbox

@Tomchri idea is a good one too, just make sure it's quite a beefy wire, I've used a wrench and a screwdriver in the past and the spark it makes on connection is impressive.

Oh and stating the bleedin' obvious, FFS make sure the bike's in neutral by wheeling it to check, NEVER rely on "The gearbox is in the vicinty of neutral" warning light

Was just going to suggest such a device. Used one to start my son's car after the battery suddenly keeled over. About the size of a smart phone, these remarkable little devices might even fit in the monkey paw trap.