Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
11 minutes ago, deadpen69 said:

Nice one, @deadpen69 !

Our V11 have four of these: alternator cover, top triple clamp, and both Frame Side Plates.

Be aware that only the alternator cover has a slight curve to it. When applying to the other locations, consider pressing the badge flat before application. And, also, that the adhesive tape may not be the best way to keep them from going missing, again.

02517700.jpg

Posted

Oh, hey, and: certain cleaning solutions are notorious for dissolving these adhesive "tapes" and send the little badges to the highway. Both "SuperClean" and "S100" come to mind . . .  Not "adhesive tape" compatible!

  • Like 1
Posted
13 hours ago, docc said:

Oh, hey, and: certain cleaning solutions are notorious for dissolving these adhesive "tapes" and send the little badges to the highway. Both "SuperClean" and "S100" come to mind . . .  Not "adhesive tape" compatible!

Interesting.  I’d never tried S100 till last fall, as i had lumped it into the snake oil category with so many other miracle items, but a guy i know said it worked well for him.  Tried it on my Duc wheels, as they are the spoked tubeless wheels and really hard to reach when cleaning, and didn’t seem to do anything, so that bottle sits on the shelf.  Maybe its ok for other parts of the bike (?), but not working on wheels, and then not being good for the logos, well thats not a case for s100 so far for me…

living on a gravel road was what caused me years ago to sell my beloved ST4… couldn’t take the anguish any more of it always rattling up and down that road, and always being dirty.  I got over that, regretted selling the ST4, and then the county paved over half of the remaining gravel, so I got back on the wicked Italian bike wagon.  But am still always interested in easier ways to clean the machines, as there’s still a bit of unpaved road left on my road.  And the V11’s don’t rattle like the ST’s, with way fewer plastic bits. :->

  • Like 1
Posted

The guy that sold me the first bottle of S100 told me, "No need to leave it on."  What he should have said is, "Don't leave it on.. spritz it on and rinse immediately, or it can do bad things." :rasta: I still use it for a quicky clean up occasionally.

  • Like 4
Posted
45 minutes ago, Chuck said:

The guy that sold me the first bottle of S100 told me, "No need to leave it on."  What he should have said is, "Don't leave it on.. spritz it on and rinse immediately, or it can do bad things." :rasta: I still use it for a quicky clean up occasionally.

Our bud @Chuck is who put me onto the SuperClean. It is an awesome cleaner/degreaser. I just learned , the hard way, that it may soften these double stick adhesives. 

Posted

Spotted this tonight, on the speedo.  I recall seeing some threads and FAQ info on the gauges, but posting this now while its fresh, to fish for what the recommendation is for this issue - 

 

35ACD4D9-4CA9-4CAD-B8F8-67A2E323AC8C.jpeg

Posted
8 hours ago, Chuck said:

The guy that sold me the first bottle of S100 told me, "No need to leave it on."  What he should have said is, "Don't leave it on.. spritz it on and rinse immediately, or it can do bad things." :rasta: I still use it for a quicky clean up occasionally.

Not as good as Stoddard solvent on grease and harder on paint. A quandary. I spent some time R&Ring the muffler brackets and compounding the paint back to where it was. So, S-100 gets used on metal, basically.  

  • Like 1
Posted

My Sport came to me from the oilfields of Southern California, with every nook and cranny filled with basically dirty, seasoned road tar. I've used everything trying to rid it of these evil dark bits, and it's clear that until it's stripped to the core I'll live with some of it. That said, the best two cleaners I tried were Westley's Bleche-White (do not let it linger, it's quite caustic) and WD-40. As an act of desperation trying to find something to clean the front wheel and fork ends, I used 'like dissolves like' and it worked. That said, I never got everything returned to new and eventually had the wheels stripped and powder coated and the forks rebuilt and vapor blasted. 

  • Like 2
Posted
10 hours ago, billgreenman1 said:

I thought that a hammer was to be prominently displayed in workshop photos...🤔

Mjolnir went missing a long, long time ago.  The other hammers don’t deserve the exposure, though I’m still fond of them…

On the paint topic, appears I’m going to have to mooch some Methylene chloride based stripper from the stash at the shop at work, as apparently only the environmentally friendly version is not available any more.  I’ll only be a wee little bit environmentally naughty.

Posted

^^^^ I'm what some might call a treehugger..but.. sometimes a guy's gotta do what a guy's gotta do. :rasta:

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, Gmc28 said:

On the paint topic, appears I’m going to have to mooch some Methylene chloride based stripper from the stash at the shop at work, as apparently only the environmentally friendly version is not available any more.  I’ll only be a wee little bit environmentally naughty.

I lost track of exactly what you're trying to tackle & do, but I always have a jug of Acetone around, not sure if that would work for you.

fwiw

Posted
2 hours ago, 80CX100 said:

I lost track of exactly what you're trying to tackle & do, but I always have a jug of Acetone around, not sure if that would work for you.

fwiw

Just strip some of the aluminum bits, mostly cosmetic, but including “dash” light cover, generator/coil cover up front, and probably some other areas here or there that may not be removed from the bike (small, less visible area on block toward the front) but which I’d work on in-place (maybe).   

Haven’t tried acetone alone.  If i can get piece off using one of those “scotch-brite type” wheels you can put on a 4” grinder, though i’ve only used those on steel in the past… not sure for aluminum.

Posted

Has anyone stripped and cleaned the turn signal dash aluminum cover piece and then just clear coated it?

I’ve got some aluminum paint, but wondered about how a clear would look, if I can get a nice enough surface prep and etch.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...