2003 Tank Retrofit

[al_roethlisberger]

Well, as mentioned in the following:

 

Wasted Fuel Thread

 

Relocated Fuel Pump Thread

 

 

I had ordered, and now received a salvage 2003 tank with the in tank fuel pump, from a wrecked 2003 LeMans

 

 

Originally, as covered in the two referenced threads above, I had modified my fuel system and 2002 tank to address two issues:

 

1) Heat Induced Vapor Lock

2) "Trapped" fuel due to a lack of a balance tube/function in the tank

 

In both cases, I believe I was successful in addressing these issues with the various phases of my modifications.

 

But I was curious how well the 2003+ tanks addressed either or both of these concerns with the new design.

 

So, with the receipt of the 2003 tank, I can now begin to examine it's design. And because I have not heard of any 2003+ owners complaining of the vapor lock issue, I will focus upon evaluating the following:

 

1) Fitment issues, if any, regarding retrofitting to a 2002 or earlier bike

2) Total available fuel capacity

 

 

Although I will not know the results of either issue above for certain until later this evening or tomorrow, I can make some assumptions and observations now.

 

 

First, it appears that the external dimensions of the new tank are unchanged, or very close to that of the old tank. I of course will again know more once I try to drop it onto my bike, but a casual comparison appears that it will not be a problem.

 

Also, as you will see in the photos below, at least on European models(this was a UK bike), there is no reflective heat shielding as installed on underside of my 2002 tank, and every other modern motorcycle I've owned

 

On another positive note, it appears that the electrical connections for the fuel level sender and pump will not be difficult to integrate with the 2002 bike's harness. First, the connector for the fuel level sender looks to be the same as on the earlier bikes, so no modification there is required. And although a two conductor AMP Weather Tite connector is now used for the fuel pump power leads(as opposed to two eyelets on the old external pump), this will be a minor, and better modification/solution to mate with the 2002 harness than the bare eyelets.

 

So my concerns of major harness incompatibility, or some strange proprietary connector are unfounded

 

 

One interesting observation is that although the new tanks are a major step forward, they will still suffer from "trapped" fuel, although on the opposite side ...and somewhat to a lesser degree.

 

Where on the 2002 bikes, fuel was drawn from the left petcock, to recirculate to the right "saddlebag", where it was "trapped"(see thread above for more detail)... the new tank draws and returns fuel to the right side exclusively. This unfortunately still leaves fuel now trapped on the left side, but at least with this setup one can effective "slosh" fuel over to the right side, and have it more or less "stay there" to be effectively scavenged by the pump. So that's a good thing.

 

Although, I have to still note that it would be a better and cleaner solution to have some sort of balance tube, but with the airbox, this isn't easily done. However, I might look into making one since my external pump mounted above the spine, and my airbox will now be gone. We'll see Heck, one could even put a small fuel-cell under there

 

 

Anyway, other interesting observations are that the new in-tank pump, regulator(it is now teeny TINY BTW), and filter are all quite compact and a nice, clean solution... albeit a bit tangled.

 

BTW, to finally answer the oft-asked, but never answered question: YES, THE FILTER IS NOW IN THE TANK

 

So, to replace your filter, as seen in the photos below, one must remove 6 3mm button head fasteners, and drop/remove the whole module.

 

It is a much smaller filter.... as is the pump, and again the teeny pressure regulator... but I have no idea regarding service intervals, or alternate sources. If anyone has this information, especially regarding the service life of the filter, this would be great to know.

 

It's also interesting to note that it is obvious that the pump is quite high on the assembly, so although often submerged, it is also often quite obviously well above the fuel level once well into a tank of gas. So it appears that submersion is not the primary cooling factor. I would assume fuel flow therefore is.

 

Also, as a final note, although unlikely in normal riding, etc... when I received my tank, the pump had fallen out of the two plastic clips that hold it into it's seat. After reclipping it in, I realized how poorly these clips retain the pump. So it might make sense to add a stainless steel hose clamp around the clips/pump to guarantee it's not getting knocked loose if you have an accident, drop the bike, or just hit a really hard bump

 

 

So, I've posted some preliminary photos of the tank and pump assembly below for those interested, and I'll update my experience adapting the tank over the next few days/week.

 

It appears that just installing the tank will be a non-issue, while measuring it's total capacity will take a little effort, and getting it painted will of course take a week or more.

 

.... more to come

 

al

[al_roethlisberger]

Closeup of the pump module orifice:

[al_roethlisberger]

Pump/Filter/Regulator Module, view 1:

[al_roethlisberger]

Pump/Filter/Regulator Module, view 2:

[al_roethlisberger]

Closeup of filter:

[al_roethlisberger]

Wiring harness connectors:

[al_roethlisberger]

Filter and Pump info:

 

Fuel Pump Module is apparently made by "Bitron"

 

The Pump itself looks to be made by Arrum, although it was hard to read the fine script logo. The older 2002 and earlier pump and regulator are made by Weber.

 

And the Filter is by Knecht, model KL145

 

 

BTW, does anyone know how to unhook the undertank "quick connects"(grey/black red/white plastic fittings) on these? I've tried every gentle push, pull, and twist... but they don't budge. I don't want to break them, and since I take my tank off often... well, I want to learn the correct method

 

I'm sure it's simple, and I'm just missing something

 

al

[Guest IanJ]

Cool, thanks for the write-up so far Al. I'm looking forward to your further observations, speaking as a recently indoctrinated member of the Vapor Lock Club....

 

One solution that I don't think I've seen mentioned for the spare fuel issue is to use another small submersible pump with a float switch, so that if the float is between two levels (say, between 3 and 5 cm from the bottom of the tank, pulling numbers out of my ass), the pump powers on, moving gas over to the other side via a length of hose. This would, of course, be an extremely complex and "active" solution to a problem that should be easily solved with passive methods, but it just occurred to me. The float switch probably doesn't exist in nature, so it'd have to be designed and built -- an obvious down-side.

[Mr. Bean]

Very good information Al, thanks!

 

I will be eagerly awaiting to hear if you find the correct way to use the quick disconnects...I too tried to tug and pull on them but don't really want to use too much force either for fear of breaking them.

 

Randy

[al_roethlisberger]

Cool, thanks for the write-up so far Al.  I'm looking forward to your further observations, speaking as a recently indoctrinated member of the Vapor Lock Club....  <_>

 

One solution that I don't think I've seen mentioned for the spare fuel issue is to use another small submersible pump with a float switch, so that if the float is between two levels (say, between 3 and 5 cm from the bottom of the tank, pulling numbers out of my ass), the pump powers on, moving gas over to the other side via a length of hose.  This would, of course, be an extremely complex and "active" solution to a problem that should be easily solved with passive methods, but it just occurred to me.  The float switch probably doesn't exist in nature, so it'd have to be designed and built -- an obvious down-side. 

 

Whew .....yeah, that might be a bit too complex a solution for what could probably just be solved with a length of hose and two fittings

 

Plus, although it's easier to get into the 2003+ tanks through the pump module hole, it's still nigh impossible to work inside the tank through the neck... based on my experience.

 

BTW, one notable difference with this particular 2003 tank, is the cap/filler/neck area. Where on my 2002 tank, once the cap and black pot-metal mounting ring is removed, there is a relatively large hole(maybe 3 inches across), on the 2003 tank, the metal insert and collar is molded into the tank, and the filler hole is only about 2 inches across, if that

 

I don't know if this is unique to Euro versions of the tank, or if all 2003 tanks have a narrower filler hole under the cap assembly ....but I suspect they do.

 

al

 

 

2003 Tank Neck(apologies for the glare), note the built-in metal reinforcement ring, and that the cap now locks directly into the tank neck/plastic. Again, access into the tank is now much narrower and confined through the neck.

[al_roethlisberger]

Here is a photo of the 2002 neck(disregard the modified fuel return fitting seen through the hole ) with the cap and metal spacer removed. Note how much larger the access hole is:

[al_roethlisberger]

And here is a photo of the metal spacer/neck that goes under all 2002 and earlier caps, to lift the cap above the tank pad, and that the cap actually locks into. This spacer is no longer present on the 2003 tanks, and I have already tested and found that the 2002 and 2003 caps themselves are interchangeable

[leafman60]

Al, I hate to deprive you of a month's worth of research but I understand those hose connectors require a special tool to break apart. One option is to leave them alone and replace the crimp-on hose clamps which attach the hose to the special connectors. A typical adjustable hoseclamp would allow removal.

[Frank]

Al,

 

to release the QD fuel lines from the, you support the fitting, push the fuel line towards the fitting while pushing or pulling the offwhite collar toward the fuel line. They come right off although sometimes I have to slightly shake or quiver my hands to get them come off. They simply click back together. The fittings into the tank themselves will swivel to allow better purchase on the inboard fitting.

 

Frank

[al_roethlisberger]

Thanks Frank

 

..... but, I went out and fiddled with the QD connectors, and no amount of wiggling, squeezing, pushing, etc... could get them to budge

 

I even went so far as getting two pair of needle nosed pliers to gently squeeze the gray collar and black fitting together towards eachother with a bit more force, and evenly.... again with no result

 

I stopped short of squeezing "too hard" and breaking them, but am still puzzled as to why they seem so difficult to remove. I can't imagine trying to remove them while up under the tank, versus my wrenching on them in my lap <_>

 

 

However, it seems that some folks are able to get this quick disconnects off by hand, so I don't know if mine are just being difficult, or if I'm doing something wrong

 

If I can't get them off easily consistently, I guess I'll just put a regular worm clamps on the plastic barb.....

 

....odd

 

Anyone have any other ideas regarding these fittings??

 

al

 

 

Illustrated below is the direction I am pressing/pushing, is this correct?