docc Posted June 13, 2022 Posted June 13, 2022 1 hour ago, Purloined said: Thanks, Docc and everyone for information and advice and images. Hopefully Stuart Brainerd is able to extricate what's left of the bolt without destroying the threaded hole in the casting. I agree, it looks under-engineered. Let us know if there is room for a longer bolt there.
gstallons Posted June 13, 2022 Posted June 13, 2022 What I would do is , get a length of all-thread and bottom it out in the engine case and mark it where you can cut it leaving enough to install a lock washer/nut in place of the socket head capscrew . This way you will take advantage of the depth of threads in the engine case . Now when you use a stud you are pulling the threads instead of screwing the threads . 2
Purloined Posted June 13, 2022 Author Posted June 13, 2022 2 hours ago, docc said: Let us know if there is room for a longer bolt there. Will do, Docc. The suggestion about substituting a stud is not a bad idea. Mister Brainerd is pretty resourceful, I'll bring it up. 1
grossohc Posted May 10, 2023 Posted May 10, 2023 My bike sits at a jaunty angle when on the stand. Checked the small bolt and it was loose, tightened it up but just keeps turning so put it on with thread lock for now. Main bolt tight and no deformation on bracket, but the wear on the stand is 😳. It’s like someone has filed it away. Does anyone know of a side stand foot extender that fits.
Emeraldv11 Posted May 10, 2023 Posted May 10, 2023 To straighten your bracket, If you have access to liquid nitrogen( your local doctor or a cattle inseminator) tie some wire on your bracket, dip it in the nitro and secure it in the vise wearing welding gloves and straighten it back to shape. The cold tightens the granular structure of the alloy (if thats the right words) and it wont break. I straightened many gear levers ,brake pedals etc that way and saved a fortune. Very handy for bending thick aluminium plating to make sumpgards etc 2 1
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