Tag bracket broken; weld? replace? substitue solution?

[80CX100]

1 hour ago, docc said:

Yessir. #7 is a structural member together with the #11 Support Bracket and #28 Splash Guard.

Nothing wrong with repairing the Support Bracket, it is not the issue.

It is the chopped up #7. Unless you can find all of those attachment points and re-fasten them properly, a replacement #7 is in order.

If that part proves difficult to find, I know for the Griso and possibly other models, there were after market fender eliminator kits available, has there ever been a similar kit for the V11s that might replace that damaged structural piece?

Harpers sometimes has some odd parts hanging around.

There was a recently a post re parts on EBAY in Europe for a V11, with any luck at all there may be someone stateside parting one out as well.

[Speedfrog]

One could fairly easily fabricate their own fender eliminator /license plate holder /tail tidy or whatever you wanna call it...

Here is an interesting idea/drawing that could be implemented as is or used for inspiration. 

Fender Eliminator Bracket.pdf

[Kevin_T]

Got to love P.O., I would try for used parts from bike wreckers like Pinwall or Guzzi-tech even E-bay. I was fitting some saddle- bags so I was digging into that section of the bike, and the original design is more than able to handle about any weight you could throw at it. I was kind of surprised when I saw your post.

[p6x]

Thanks for all the suggestions and advice from all, and help from @KINDOY2.

This morning I visited a welding shop who took the job. We agreed on how to do it. As usual I will post pictures once I get it back.

The actual bracket will be reinforced in both axis by adding some beams. It should not brake again.

With a bit of luck, I should get it by tomorrow. These guys are working on oilfield equipment for major companies, I looked silly with my little bracket.

[p6x]

The welding shop called me at 1:30. They thought it was more important to do my repair rather than work on that BOP.

Nice!

Here it is with a reinforcement before painting. If it breaks again, it will not be at the same place.

Tomorrow I will put everything back together and get ready to go. The heat is indescribable. I went to the welding shop with the 911 opened, 104 degF on the thermometer...

 

 

[docc]

Have you located the rearmost mounting points upward into the rear subframe that ordinarily capture those rearmost holes on the #7 "fender" ? 

[gstallons]

That is some pretty good welding .

[p6x]

19 hours ago, docc said:

Have you located the rearmost mounting points upward into the rear subframe that ordinarily capture those rearmost holes on the #7 "fender" ? 

I found a better way to get the mudguard attached to the assembly. But I am going to need different fasteners. Another trip to the nut place then....

I am going to be able to use longer 6mm screws instead of that zip tie.

The difficult part will be to reconnect the wires while holding the tail light & turn indicators piece. There is not much play in the wiring.

Obviously, after everything is installed and tightened up, that will be the time when I find out that the rear left and right turn indicators are inverted....

[p6x]

Here's the support bracket installed again.

I replaced the zip ties by two 8mm CHC screws with lock nuts.

I replaced the two cruciform fasteners with two 6mm hexagonal head stainless steel screws with conventional nuts. I need slightly longer screws, those are 15mm long; I need 20mm and lock nuts.

I had to replace the 1157 Bulb; only the brake light worked.

I saw a large selection of led lights to replace the incandescent ones, I did not know which to pick (I read on a forum that some of those are really poor quality). I will check if we already have a topic about this.

 

[docc]

So, still no attachment to the rearmost points under the seat's subframe? They seem important to me. Without them, the weight and vibration, is still all through the bracket that failed.

[p6x]

12 hours ago, docc said:

So, still no attachment to the rearmost points under the seat's subframe? They seem important to me. Without them, the weight and vibration, is still all through the bracket that failed.

My most pressing objective is to be able to ride. I am hopeful that with that welded reinforcement beam, I have some miles ahead of the same problem happening again. Since I dropped the bike, the maimed mud guard was evidence the cracks may have also been incident induced.

One small step for me, many more miles for the Le Mans before the next issue....