Fork seals, DIY or no?

[LaGrasta]

My newly acquired 2003 V11 has leaked all of the fluid from the right fork. (I used a tool to reseat the seal, but not too sure about it being successful. I'll add fluid and see what I have.) 

I've rebuilt forks a number of times, most recently on a 1982 GL500. To avoid needing a special tool to hold the internals, I just used an impact gun and broke the nut free without the need to hold the other side. Can this be done with the V11 or is the tool a requirement? Considering I'll probably never use it again, I may opt to pay for this service. Opinions, advice, DIY procedures to share? thx

[Pressureangle]

I had mine done recently by the local WP performance center, which fortunately is only a half hour away. For less than $400 they came back renewed, bushings, seals, cleaned, and hydroblasted. They look nearly new, and they were criminally stained when I took them in. I looked into refurbishing them myself, but I didn't want that particular educational experience at that price, and they needed to be cleaned up better than I could do myself.

[docc]

Some thorough discussion from @Lucky Phil:

 

[gstallons]

If you are in the least bit of doubt about your abilities , take them to a reputable shop .

[Lucky Phil]

5 hours ago, Pressureangle said:

I had mine done recently by the local WP performance center, which fortunately is only a half hour away. For less than $400 they came back renewed, bushings, seals, cleaned, and hydroblasted. They look nearly new, and they were criminally stained when I took them in. I looked into refurbishing them myself, but I didn't want that particular educational experience at that price, and they needed to be cleaned up better than I could do myself.

Well the seals and bushes are worth $80US or there abouts ,oil about $20 and an hours labour for both. You can probably get away without the seal driver at $30US I found. The issue I have these days isn't so much the cost but the quality of the work. Hard to find skilled people out there that do quality work.

Phil 

[LaGrasta]

Thank you for your replies. Being in Southern California I have numerous places I can take them. Although I ’m more than comfortable swapping the seals myself, as I say I’ve done this before with other bikes. I guess I’m mostly curious about the special tool.

i’m actually leaving tomorrow for vacation, so I have plenty of time to think about it. Ciao

[GuzziMoto]

On 7/4/2022 at 12:31 PM, LaGrasta said:

My newly acquired 2003 V11 has leaked all of the fluid from the right fork. (I used a tool to reseat the seal, but not too sure about it being successful. I'll add fluid and see what I have.) 

I've rebuilt forks a number of times, most recently on a 1982 GL500. To avoid needing a special tool to hold the internals, I just used an impact gun and broke the nut free without the need to hold the other side. Can this be done with the V11 or is the tool a requirement? Considering I'll probably never use it again, I may opt to pay for this service. Opinions, advice, DIY procedures to share? thx

My wife's V11 is an early red frame V11. I mention that because the forks are different depending on which V11 you have. That said, as I recall (it has been years) I pulled her forks apart using the rattle gun method. Then I used a nail at a set height in a door frame to hold the spring down while I took the cap off, although I have since bought a tool that holds the fork spring compressed. I used no special tools. Just some special thinking ;-)

[LaGrasta]

I believe I successfully reseated/resealed my leaking fork seal. To refill, I opened the top cap, but could not syringe in the 400cc. Advice?

[docc]

Using the "air gap technique", I set mine at 100mm using 330ml in each leg. Yes, this can be done with the forks installed, but compressed. Springs out, IIRC.
 

[moderator edit: Keeping this discussion here, rather than a new topic in "How to" . . .]

[gstallons]

If you can find a specialist , call them and talk to them . If they can give you a good sales pitch , have them do it . 

[LaGrasta]

Removed the forks and replaced the seals this past weekend, totally DIY for most of us. I spent far too much time trying to decipher the Factory Manual method. Basically, remove the fork, unscrew the allen in the base and apart it comes. The most difficult part is the snap-ring. It really took some bugging to get it out. Flat head worked on one, a dental pic on the other. I let the pieces drain overnight and am glad I did, big puddle in the morning.

Upon resemble, I replaced the fork-oil saturated brakes pads as well. Took it for a ride and whew-hoo! Proper suspension and stopping!

And to remain humble, the right side still leaks! I'm so disappointed. I really wanted to ride it to work this week. Especially after the terrific feeling test ride. So, I removed it once again, and inspected. Everything looked correct, nothing blatent anyway. Not sure why it still leaks. I reordered new seals (Amazon, $7) just to be sure and will replace the right one again when they arrive.

[LaGrasta]

Is this assessment correct?

43mm forks, but when ordering seals, some sites list the correct number as 43mm, others 40mm. I suspect some sites are using the slider measurement vs the tube measurement. So both are correct, 43mm/40mm.

[docc]

40mm are early V11, 43 = later.

Slider measurement.

[guzziart]

 

Hi All,

Fwiw.....

[LaGrasta]

@docc, so I should be buying 43mm for my 2003. Listings have confused me, as they seem to suggest 40mm. I ordered 40 and installed 40. Confused.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803348185096.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.68231802nrnqfM&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CL3YNGG/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Being anxious, I ordered a set from each. Both list 40mm