Very High Idle

[Big Mack]

Out of the blue my beloved 2000 V11 Sport with 20k started idling at 3,000 - 4,000. Above that sputtering and stalling out.

Throttle linkage closes completely. Cleaned the throttle bodies and injectors. Replaced the boots. Even though the TPS spec'd out I replaced and calibrated it. Valves are to spec.

Still no love. The manual and various forums talk about software I do not posess.

Does anyone know a good mechanic near Chicago?

I'm shocked not be able to find one. The only dealership is new and not up to speed, Former dealerships no longer service Guzzis. Joe at The Guzzi Doctor no longer works on bikes newer than 1986.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[docc]

One of the vacuum taps came uncapped or loosened in the intake?

[Big Mack]

Plugged tight and "look" to be in very good condition. Thanks

[docc]

Intake manifolds are tight to the heads? (No visible gaps in the gasket edges?)

[Pressureangle]

Can't make RPM without air, it's getting in there somehow. Spray some liquid- I like WD40, or alternatively a combustible carb cleaner etc.- on the intake manifold gasket area and also the boot sealing joints. If you hear any change in RPM, you have a leak. Check to see your idle air screws haven't fallen out (never heard of such) The last time I had a high idle, it took a minute to figure out I'd left the 'choke' lever partially engaged. Regularly, my Kaoko cruise control drifts enough to make a high idle. This is one with simple answers, as fuel and spark cannot make RPM without air.

[paulnaz]

   High idle cam (choke) underneath throttle body hanging up? If not, a can of WD40 might be useful now.

    Paul B

      looks like pressureangle beat me to it

Edited July 24, 2022 by paulnaz

[Big Mack]

Gentlemen:

Thank you for the tips. 

I'll go through the boots and gaskets looking for an air leak.

Hopefully I'll have some news in a few days.

[Big Mack]

Update:

Finally found a decent mechanic near Chicago. He noticed the when the previous owner installed an all new exhaust 15 years ago he also added a Power Commander III.

Turns out PC III's don't last forever. He unplugged it and - whammo - problem solved.

I assume ECU defaulted to it's original fuel map. The mechanic pointed out that the 2000 model was pre-emission so while it may run a bit lean ride it for a while before doing additional work. 

Also turns out my tach is shot. So when the bike sounded like it was idling fine and reading high I should have trusted my ears. I will fix/replace the tach over the winter.

My scoot has been running fine except a slight hiccup when cruising (no load) in a specific 100 rpm (3,000?).

Thanks again for everybody's help.

[gstallons]

A PC III is the worst device ever manufactured PERIOD

[pete roper]

Back in the mists of time a PC was the only way in the aftermarket to modify the map. The problem was, and remains, that they are a crude and simple device allowing only limited modification to certain aspects of the map.

There are now numerous, better, alternatives that have the added advantage of not having to interfere with the loom and giving full access to if not all, then at least many more aspects of the map.

The 15M and 15M-RC controllers are a completely open book as far as map manipulation is concerned. A PC I think appeals to some as it is often sold and perceived as a 'Magic' plug in filled with mystical Ju-Ju and the fitting of one will deliver the mystical/mechanical equivalent of a 'Laying on of hands' which of course it doesn't! They are also often marketed in the same way by people who really don't have much of a clue so the gullible are easily exploited.

Quite simply there are many better options for enhancing performance, (And by 'Performance' I am not simply referring to power and torque figures.) than a plug-in box.