Fuel Injection, stream or spray?

[LaGrasta]

not sure about the click (ill have to test this), but the pump whirs. If I disconnect the fuel line at the injector, the pump PUMPS!

[docc]

4 hours ago, LaGrasta said:

not sure about the click (ill have to test this), but the pump whirs. If I disconnect the fuel line at the injector, the pump PUMPS!

Do a voltage test at the battery:

1) After about 6 hours or so with Ignition off.

2) Ignition/lights on for a couple minutes.

3) WHILE cranking.

[Lucky Phil]

Do you have the injector plugs correctly installed? they take quite a lot of "push" sometimes to overcome the locking clip on the connector. The pump, injectors and coils feed from then same relay so if one works they all should. Is the ECU correctly grounded?  

Phil

[gstallons]

You can get s "noid light" to plug into the injector harness . Crank the engine and it will flash when the injector is triggered . 

[LaGrasta]

yes, the relays click, and the pump whirls; confirmed last night.

I like @gstaallons noid light idea. I may check into that as it would be nice to confirm it's working.

I believe the injectors aren't cleaned properly. The thing is, even if they aren't spraying, they are at least squirting, it should still fire, and it's not.

@LuckyPhil, they are installed correct, securely locked in. As for being properly grounded, I do have an understanding off this importance. I have not checked this, but I believe it is all stock so it should be correct. Laughable I know, but I'll still mention this, the owner said it ran when he parked it.

[docc]

How about those voltages I suggested a few posts back?

[LaGrasta]

2 hours ago, docc said:

How about those voltages I suggested a few posts back?

I did not test this; I'll give it a try.

[gstallons]

When you are working on this , you want 12v on one side of the harness and the other side of the harness is triggered (grounded) to cause the injector to activate . This takes place one time every other stroke of the c/shaft .

[LaGrasta]

On 8/22/2022 at 4:05 PM, docc said:

Do a voltage test at the battery:

1) After about 6 hours or so with Ignition off.

2) Ignition/lights on for a couple minutes.

3) WHILE cranking.

12.22, lights on 

9.22, cranking

[docc]

20 minutes ago, LaGrasta said:

12.22, lights on 

9.22, cranking

That's mighty weak, bud.  What is the type and date code on the battery?

[LaGrasta]

I bought it about two weeks ago, Amazon. Because it was purchased online, no returns! I put it on a 2amp trickle last night, this morning it reads 12.69.

I must say though, the bike turns hard and fast, no problem. This is not the reason it's not lighting on gas. The injectors will be pulled again this weekend, I'll clean them and if no success, I'll get them cleaned or replaced altogether.

[LaGrasta]

Pulled the injectors this past weekend, cleaned them again. Same results, strong, single stream. As my original thread was questioning, is this correct? It seems no one knows if it should be a spray or a squirt.

My plan now is to be sure the leads are receiving signals. I suspect maybe not, as I noticed the throttle bodies appear dry. Maybe they could have dried by the time I got in there, but I see no signs of dry fuel. I don't own the injector noid mentioned. Before buying a set, any other way to check? Maybe with an ohm or volt meter?

[Pressureangle]

1 hour ago, LaGrasta said:

Pulled the injectors this past weekend, cleaned them again. Same results, strong, single stream. As my original thread was questioning, is this correct? It seems no one knows if it should be a spray or a squirt.

My plan now is to be sure the leads are receiving signals. I suspect maybe not, as I noticed the throttle bodies appear dry. Maybe they could have dried by the time I got in there, but I see no signs of dry fuel. I don't own the injector noid mentioned. Before buying a set, any other way to check? Maybe with an ohm or volt meter?

Until someone pulls a real-life example to present, I'll say that there is *no* case in which an injector should have a steady stream. The entire fuel mixing scheme demands atomization, whether gasoline or diesel. It sounds like the pintles are stuck wide open, which makes no sense unless the computer is demanding it, and not possible on a bench without a signal connection.

Here's a video showing how to test the signal to the injectors using a 'noid' light- back in the early days of EFI we made our own with a 3- or 6- volt dc light bulb, soldering wires to it to shove into the harness plug.

Edit; sorry I missed the previous mention of noid lights. You can simply make your own from a 6v taillamp bulb or flashlight bulb and some thin wire.

 

[LaGrasta]

Mine looks like #5 https://www.proflowtech.com/the-technology/

 

[Pressureangle]

12 minutes ago, LaGrasta said:

Mine look like #5 https://www.proflowtech.com/the-technology/

 

So yours doesn't look like a sink faucet, clear stream? If it looks like the picture and they say that's good, it's good.