Guest jerroldt Posted May 17, 2004 Posted May 17, 2004 With some time on my hands after a run today, I removed the battery to slide a water barrier down behind the battery tray etc. More hassle that I had inticipated! Getting 3 crimp lugs on each side lined up and the bolts installed took a long time. My solution is to group all the positive and all the negative leads together respectively along with a 3"-4" jumper on each side to connect to the battery terminals. I plan to grease and seal the connections and use shrink wrap and end up with only one positive lead and one negative lead for connecting to the battery. I will probably use stranded cable one size larger than the main cable for the jumpers to the battery along with the appropriate conectors etc. I think that the insulated connections can be hidden in the underseat area. It may make battery removal and installation a lot easier, at least for me.
badmotogoozer Posted May 17, 2004 Posted May 17, 2004 I like that idea. Don't know if it has been done but removing the batt sure is a hassle! I took my batt out for the winter, kept on the trickle charger now and again. When I put it back in, the bike would not start - just made this horrible clanking sound. The dealer looked at it and said that I would need a new battery (>$100) so I was kind of miffed. I had thought it was the starter or something internal binding. The noise was so horrendous that I was sure something had come apart inside. Then the mechanic starts working on something else on the bike, and he laughs. "took the battery out did ya? - you forgot to reconnect the BIG ground wire to the starter!" Properly connected all was well. But what a scary noise! Don't know how that big wire got away on me.... Rj
al_roethlisberger Posted May 17, 2004 Posted May 17, 2004 I too have thought about installing junction/barrier strips now that I have something like 5 rings on each terminal what with heated grips, upgraded horns, and a Powerlet outlet on the bike. A lot of the guys on Sport-touring.net do this to ease adding hookups. But I have to say that honestly though, the battery itself on the V11 and even the terminals are pretty easy to get to compared with some other bikes and cars I've had. I really can't complain As I've said, I've got about 5 rings on each terminal now, and it's pretty easy to get them on. I guess it's all relative though al
Guest Bruce Posted May 17, 2004 Posted May 17, 2004 Just came in from the garage. Had the starter out again so I could fiddle w/ the shift linkage some more ( big idea on the way home, had to have a look ). Anyhow I disconnect the battery as its easy to short it out while removing the starter so I just did this. 1) slide the bolt through the 3 eyelets. Keep the heaviest lug on the bottom, ie it will be in direct contact w/ the battery. 2) Use a nut driver to get the bolt started. 3) Drink a beer and be grateful to have such a beautiful bike 4) repeat step 3 as needed
docc Posted May 18, 2004 Posted May 18, 2004 the terminal stack is prone to loosening as well introducing various electrical gremlins. Even the connections on the junction blocks require a torque check from time to time. terminal junctions
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