Revilo Posted September 22, 2022 Posted September 22, 2022 Hi Folks. I seem to have well and truly fried my original voltage regulator. I think because I left the Odyssey battery on charge for too long without disconnecting from the bike. Symptoms were that it ran, but red ignition light was burning very bright, and subsequent testing for continuity suggest it is useless. I know that there has been discussion before but perhaps not for a while so I'm looking for advice in choosing a (not too expensive) alternative to get me back on the road. I've seen cheap eBay options...has anyone any experience of these?or similar?
docc Posted September 22, 2022 Posted September 22, 2022 I use this OEM replacement with the bullet connectors changed to spades for that supplier's improved stator. (Case grounded to the timing chest). https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/edl450-voltrect.htm 1
Speedfrog Posted September 22, 2022 Posted September 22, 2022 I couldn’t help noticing that warning from Euromotoelectrics against the use of that particular regulator with Odyssey batteries.. as well as lithium iron batteries. A lot of us run Odyssey’s in our bikes, any thoughts from those with experience running both in conjunction?
docc Posted September 22, 2022 Posted September 22, 2022 I've been using this combination all along. Although, I must emphasize that I monitor the static voltage as my bike sits and properly charge/ "condition" the PC545 when the discharge reaches 80% (12.65v) as per Odyssey's instructions. IIRC, I was fitting a new regulator at about 30,000 miles until I grounded the case and started being diligent with the battery conditioning. FWIW, I also isolate the regulator while using a charger. This procedure has been often stated as unnecessary, but my 30 amp circuit breaker makes it easy for me to do and I figure it can't hurt. 1 1
Revilo Posted September 22, 2022 Author Posted September 22, 2022 Hi. Thanks Docc and Speedfrog. So my understanding from Docc is that your suggestion for regulator would be a direct replacement, but that you also upgraded the stator as well? I think I will isolate the battery next time I'm charging the battery. Sounds like a sensible precaution. I wonder if any fellow UK siders have found a reliable source? 1
docc Posted September 22, 2022 Posted September 22, 2022 The stator upgrade is still the OEM replacement from that supplier, but with improved strain relief and heat shielding. 2
Tomchri Posted September 22, 2022 Posted September 22, 2022 I have a few OEM used ones, that can be had for 40£ each + shipping. I went for Shindengen 847, working great, connects directly to the battery so no strain to the electrical system. Roadstercycle in CA. Cheers Tom. 3 2
stewgnu Posted September 23, 2022 Posted September 23, 2022 11 hours ago, Revilo said: Hi. Thanks Docc and Speedfrog. So my understanding from Docc is that your suggestion for regulator would be a direct replacement, but that you also upgraded the stator as well? I think I will isolate the battery next time I'm charging the battery. Sounds like a sensible precaution. I wonder if any fellow UK siders have found a reliable source? Hello rev, i’ve literally just replaced mine this month. I ended up ordering an Electrosport 515 through a company called KGB Motorcycle Distribution. I’m in Sheffield myself and the unit arrived really promptly after ordering. It’s pricier than the chineesium(?) cheapo ones at £130 but looks pleasingly well made and working well for a few hundred miles now. Stewart. 1
Revilo Posted September 23, 2022 Author Posted September 23, 2022 Hi Stewgnu. Good to hear from a local. Thanks for sharing your experience. The Electrosport 515 certainly looks the part, and there seem to be a few others about the same price. (I hadn't come across that particular one) I also found this one from a UK supplier in UK... for £60. Undoubtably Cheneesium as you say but isn't everything else? I guess it's just a case of am I prepared to take the rest. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144650269909?hash=item21add3f4d5:g:TjEAAOSwVD9gSEd5&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsHW74XlAjp5yf4ZrOfm7ocfYQj%2BWpNL7ulKJKzZI43yIOuugzX4YKGcYLIraWGajAdsBC0w3Yl%2F9%2BgYoXYD3rXFYLf2grEt5gqx9tqENqFgqj4lNXlXseXQYH9p5%2BO1xqv3RkkIkpB6S75AQMjd1rYl1ezOLbxbw3Tq2cw7Rwv8cHT4wEY2Epk2g49Jnf5jjwakr12Gbr1%2FSDtG6eoT1NI1lxwWRIEwJ3v9RNX%2BhlQ9m|tkp%3ABk9SR-a36O7sYA
Revilo Posted September 23, 2022 Author Posted September 23, 2022 Thanks TomChri. That may be a good option for me. I'll look into postage costs. The Shindengen 847 look interesting and I suppose not much more than the OEM type products. Thanks for your suggestion. 1
Weegie Posted September 23, 2022 Posted September 23, 2022 Out of interest @Tomchri are you just using 2 of the available phases (2 of the 3 yellow wires) on the Shindengen 847 and leaving the 3rd disconnected? It's what I'd like to do with my Sport 1100 and HiCam engined bikes that use the same charging system as the V11 Not a cheap option, but I've not got much faith in the alternative, specifically stating they won't support batteries with low internal resistance (LiFe and AGM batteries). 2
Pressureangle Posted September 23, 2022 Posted September 23, 2022 46 minutes ago, Weegie said: Out of interest @Tomchri are you just using 2 of the available phases (2 of the 3 yellow wires) on the Shindengen 847 and leaving the 3rd disconnected? It's what I'd like to do with my Sport 1100 and HiCam engined bikes that use the same charging system as the V11 Not a cheap option, but I've not got much faith in the alternative, specifically stating they won't support batteries with low internal resistance (LiFe and AGM batteries). Shindengen 847 is happy with Lithium or AGM, by all reports. I put one on my '74 Aermacchi 2-wire alternator and it's steady at 14.4v, even with only 140 watts. 3 2
Tomchri Posted September 24, 2022 Posted September 24, 2022 10 hours ago, Weegie said: Out of interest @Tomchri are you just using 2 of the available phases (2 of the 3 yellow wires) on the Shindengen 847 and leaving the 3rd disconnected? It's what I'd like to do with my Sport 1100 and HiCam engined bikes that use the same charging system as the V11 Not a cheap option, but I've not got much faith in the alternative, specifically stating they won't support batteries with low internal resistance (LiFe and AGM batteries). Yes just 2 wires. 4 seasons with the first 847, all perfect. Just sharing experienses here. Have one ready for my hot rod V11 1999, winther enjoyment. Charging 14.73V idling, never above 15V. No worries about the 30amp fuse, just +++. Cheers Tom 3 2
Revilo Posted October 4, 2022 Author Posted October 4, 2022 Thanks for all your thoughts on this. For what its worth I went with the Electrosport 515 as recommended by Stugnu. I managed to get it for £10.00 less (£120) from M&P here in the UK. Fitted and working well...no more flickering battery light. Thanks for the recommendation. Speedo 60 degree bevel madness next....... I bought a new one from Stein Dinse. It broke within 20miles. Aaaaagh! 4
Revilo Posted January 31, 2023 Author Posted January 31, 2023 Hi All. Sorry to be bringing this up again, but I still seem to be having problems with the charging and regulator on my 2003 cafe sport. I have fitted a new Electrosport rectifier/ regulator ESR515. See above. The connectors and wiring are as the OEM unit.On initial fitting I think all was well well, although the battery wasn’t up to the job of cranking the engine in our uk damp and cold winter. Then discovered that the odyssey Pc545 was dated 2009 so figured it was due a replaced so bought a new Motobatt. Now the bike starts easily but alternator / battery, and oil pressure warning lights fail to come on (before starting). Also no head lamp (dip or main). No Tachometer. Using circuit diagram (Thanks go to Carl Allison) I can see that they connect to the reg rec unit but don’t really understand how. Fuses all look good. If I bypass the regulator these functions seem to work. I have tested alternator. Ignition off. battery voltage is 12.93VTick over voltage is 13.47VRises to 13.66V @5000rpmAlternator disconnected reads 0.3 ohms both ways. No continuity between alternator cables and engine casing. Voltage across disconnected alternator wires is. 25V (AC) Rising to 65V So all this suggests to me the alternator and Reg/Rec are working ok. Am I right?But why are the warnings light etc not working too?Can anybody help me here? Thanks for reading
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now