Oil Filter Cover Torque

[NicoNZ]

Searched everywhere and to be fair I have just used experience to ensure the filter access cover at the bottom of the sump is tight enough, but is there a torque value specified for this?

Cheers,

Nick

[LaGrasta]

Hand-tight.

[docc]

2 hours ago, NicoNZ said:

Searched everywhere and to be fair I have just used experience to ensure the filter access cover at the bottom of the sump is tight enough, but is there a torque value specified for this?

Cheers,

Nick

I've never seen a "torque value" for this fine threaded "man hole" filter access cover. Yet, with the O-rig lubricated, it is best to tighten it firmly with a proper tool. I prefer a 10" breaker bar in 3/8" drive through the correct 27mm hex drive.

2 hours ago, LaGrasta said:

Hand-tight.

This is an important distinction that should be thoroughly understood regarding the V11's oil filter contained within the sump, out of sight. Somewhere in the lore of installing external canister oil filters, the method was to lubricate the filter's gasket with motor oil and install "hand tight" or "finger tight."

This is a DISASTEROUSLY BAD IDEA for the V11 !

V11 have been known to let their oil filter come loose. There have been theories, and contributors, to this potentially catastrophic failure:

1) Early, or a batch of, factory UFI filter gaskets were faulty or inadequate.

2) The "Hand Tight" method is not for this application.

Based upon a respectable evaluation by V11LM member Ryland3210, I adopted the "one and one eighth (1 1/8) turns past first gasket contact" to good effect. (I have only had one filter stuck to the point of removing the sump and destroying the filter to remove it. )

Others have resorted to installing a hose clamp on the filter as a stop to prevent the filter from backing off. Beware a V11 unfamiliar to you that may have this modification. The oil filter cannot be removed through the access cover, but only with the sump removed.

 

 

[NicoNZ]

On 12/8/2022 at 12:53 PM, docc said:

I've never seen a "torque value" for this fine threaded "man hole" filter access cover. Yet, with the O-rig lubricated, it is best to tighten it firmly with a proper tool. I prefer a 10" breaker bar in 3/8" drive through the correct 27mm hex drive.

This is an important distinction that should be thoroughly understood regarding the V11's oil filter contained within the sump, out of sight. Somewhere in the lore of installing external canister oil filters, the method was to lubricate the filter's gasket with motor oil and install "hand tight" or "finger tight."

This is a DISASTEROUSLY BAD IDEA for the V11 !

V11 have been known to let their oil filter come loose. There have been theories, and contributors, to this potentially catastrophic failure:

1) Early, or a batch of, factory UFI filter gaskets were faulty or inadequate.

2) The "Hand Tight" method is not for this application.

Based upon a respectable evaluation by V11LM member Ryland3210, I adopted the "one and one eighth (1 1/8) turns past first gasket contact" to good effect. (I have only had one filter stuck to the point of removing the sump and destroying the filter to remove it. )

Others have resorted to installing a hose clamp on the filter as a stop to prevent the filter from backing off. Beware a V11 unfamiliar to you that may have this modification. The oil filter cannot be removed through the access cover, but only with the sump removed.

 

 

Thanks Docc, I figured I would not find the answer. As to the filter itself, I used "hand tight then 3/4 of a turn". Probably about the same as gasket touch then 1 & 1/8th.

The filter cover I did the same as what you suggest, or close to. With a 1/2 inch breaker bar and proper tool just tight enough to ensure I wasn't going overboard. I am a fitter turner by trade so have a fairly good feel for things of mechanical "tightness". 

Managed a 400km ride on Saturday, checking underneath for any drips and seems to be all ok. 

[activpop]

On 12/7/2022 at 3:53 PM, docc said:

I've never seen a "torque value" for this fine threaded "man hole" filter access cover. Yet, with the O-rig lubricated, it is best to tighten it firmly with a proper tool. I prefer a 10" breaker bar in 3/8" drive through the correct 27mm hex drive.

This is an important distinction that should be thoroughly understood regarding the V11's oil filter contained within the sump, out of sight. Somewhere in the lore of installing external canister oil filters, the method was to lubricate the filter's gasket with motor oil and install "hand tight" or "finger tight."

This is a DISASTEROUSLY BAD IDEA for the V11 !

V11 have been known to let their oil filter come loose. There have been theories, and contributors, to this potentially catastrophic failure:

1) Early, or a batch of, factory UFI filter gaskets were faulty or inadequate.

2) The "Hand Tight" method is not for this application.

Based upon a respectable evaluation by V11LM member Ryland3210, I adopted the "one and one eighth (1 1/8) turns past first gasket contact" to good effect. (I have only had one filter stuck to the point of removing the sump and destroying the filter to remove it. )

Others have resorted to installing a hose clamp on the filter as a stop to prevent the filter from backing off. Beware a V11 unfamiliar to you that may have this modification. The oil filter cannot be removed through the access cover, but only with the sump removed.

 

 

Whoa Nellie! After reading that 2006 post I think I'm going back to just working on Briggs and Strattons. 

[gstallons]

Once you have had your head out of the sand , you can't put it back .

 Tteat it w/TLC .

[activpop]

Saw a You Tube video on changing oil filter. Had me scratching my head. They used a Bosch filter with an applied sticker on the can's painted exterior finish. The filter I got from MG cycle looked like it had a plain zinc coated exterior, which seems very suitable for being bathed in oil. Also they lubed both sides of the filter gasket, which goes against what I read here. Dont believe everything on YT.

[docc]

I try to remember to take the sticker off my WIX, but have often forgotten. At 5,000 miles, it had never been a problem. Not sure what might happen with another brand or going longer.

Far more important to make sure the old filter gasket comes out with the old filter!

[gstallons]

IDK what brand filter anyone uses , but the Wix is about as good as you can get .

[Speedfrog]

Does anyone have extended experience with HiFlo oil filters?

[NicoNZ]

2 hours ago, Speedfrog said:

Does anyone have extended experience with HiFlo oil filters?

Used them for 15 years on Ducatis with no issues. They are more than twice the price of the UFI filter here!

[Speedfrog]

Thanks Nico, good to know as I have a whole supply of HF551 on the shelf.. You can get them in the US for ~$9 from most reputable MG vendors. UFI on the other hand can be similarly priced or double that, depending on the source!

[gstallons]

Oil filters are sold w/the understanding they are externally mounted. It is up to the customer to remove labels to keep them from being a "factor" . This oil filter is the most important maintenance item you will ever install . You can install price or quality . Which one do you want ?

 I don't know how many filters interchange with this application . Wix , Baldwin , all OEM filters , AC Delco , Motorcraft , Mopar (yes US filters) , Wix , etc.....all good . 

Others , you will have to take one on one as far as good quality .     Fram , the worst filters ever produced .