Driveshaft/Gearbox

[gstallons]

You might want to be absolutely sure about what you are doing. You could end up w/a very expensive lesson.

 

[gstallons]

You (I hope) did use a line-up tool to assemble the clutch assy. ? This thing should slide together w/o any trouble. You want the trans. in gear and hold the output shaft where it will not spin. Use a socket on  .the end of the c/shaft and rotate until it aligns , then push it together EASY , making sure it all goes together top/bottom , left/right sides are all have the same air gap the entire time you go together . This should go together easily . I can't emphasize enough EASILY .

 One time I installed a clutch in a 84 F-150 so fast , I got scared , took it back out because I KNEW I did something wrong

[cash1000]

58 minutes ago, gstallons said:

You (I hope) did use a line-up tool to assemble the clutch assy. ? This thing should slide together w/o any trouble. You want the trans. in gear and hold the output shaft where it will not spin. Use a socket on  .the end of the c/shaft and rotate until it aligns , then push it together EASY , making sure it all goes together top/bottom , left/right sides are all have the same air gap the entire time you go together . This should go together easily . I can't emphasize enough EASILY .

 One time I installed a clutch in a 84 F-150 so fast , I got scared , took it back out because I KNEW I did something wrong

Its only got a single clutch plate so that plate only needs to be centered. A twin plate would need 2 plates lined up & centered. I took note of all line up marks on clutch & flywheel before I pulled apart plus reference to Greg Benders video so that part should be good . I will try with trans in gear. I suppose I'm trying to hit 2 moving target's at the same time. How do you know when it aligns?

 

[Kevin_T]

The clutch is probably put together wrong. If it wasn't lined up correctly the amount engagement would mean you'd have about 35mm instead of 2mm. Lay a straight edge over the mating face of the trans the input hub should be about 20mm in the bellhousing with the single plate clutch. A twin plate is going to be flush.

[gstallons]

 .W/O having the trans. in gear , you are rotating the flywheel and trans. input shaft at the same time. There is no chance of getting it to align

 I hope you are using longer bolts or home-made studs as guide bolts to reassemble?

 This thing will slide together , slide together . I also saw a guy try to reassemble a 65 model Massey-Ferguson tractor with the bolt tightening method . It was hard until "POW" it slid together . He demolished that tractor using his hubris/stupidity.

[cash1000]

OK I'm going to remove gearbox & clutch and start again. Probably next weekend

[Baldini]

I'm told you can align clutch plate by LOOSELY assembling clutch on the motor, attaching gearbox (requires a bit of jiggling to get input hub into splines in plate) then removing gearbox & tightening down clutch fully.

I didn't have any luck with this method so made this, which worked fine. As I recall, I measured across gearbox bellhousing face to make tool, then attached it to motor across crankcase bellhousing face & used an old clutch hub to centre plate in clutch. 

[cash1000]

10 hours ago, Baldini said:

I'm told you can align clutch plate by LOOSELY assembling clutch on the motor, attaching gearbox (requires a bit of jiggling to get input hub into splines in plate) then removing gearbox & tightening down clutch fully.

I didn't have any luck with this method so made this, which worked fine. As I recall, I measured across gearbox bellhousing face to make tool, then attached it to motor across crankcase bellhousing face & used an old clutch hub to centre plate in clutch. 

Good thinking on both ideas. I will give them a go

[docc]

So, is the difficulty an alignment issue? An assembly issue?

Any success?

[cash1000]

The differcultly was ring gear & clutch plate were in the wrong way around. Looking a picture's on phone didn't show ridge on plate and indent on ring gear. Printed photos out and bingo the problem was obvious. Gearbox now fits onto clutch- easy. Now in process of putting bike back together.

[cash1000]

Getting very frustrating putting V11 back together after gearbox work. I'm having trouble bleeding the clutch line. When I took g/b out I had to disconnect the line because I couldn't get one of the screws holding master cylinder undone. So line is full of air. I've got a speed bleeder fitted to the master cylinder so this should be easy. Nope. I've been pumping on the clutch lever for about 3 hours but I'm getting no pressure. There are air bubbles in the drainage tube and fluid is clear. It was dark when I started. Also there is fluid leaking from the bleeder when I've got it open so is air leaving into line? I got the guy who did the g/b work to replace the 3 screws on the master cylinder. Thought I would take cylinder off and raise it above the handlebars to help purge air. But I can't get screws undone. Tried a heatgun on them thinking he had used a threadlocker no go. He racing at Sound of Thunder meeting this weekend so will leave contacting him untill Monday. Any thoughts?

 

 

[fotoguzzi]

Tip I got from Lucky Phil. This pressure bleeder worked like a charm on my Norge rear brake. The Euro style had the right size cap to fit the reservoir. Probably not the right size for yours but some creativity with an extra cap could work? Thats if you have a round reservoir and not that square thing incorporated into the hand lever like the Tonti Guzzi’s have. Just a wild thought.

https://agm-products.com/collections/brake-pressure-bleeder/products/brake-pressure-bleeder

 

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[gstallons]

I bought a reverse bleed system from Motion Pro . This will force fluid back from the slave to the master cylinder . Trust me , this is a deliberate (pronounced - SLOW) and rewarding procedure .  I assume you ARE using DOT 4 fluid ?  

If you are doing this w/o a tool , as it looks in your picture , fill the vent tube of bleed hose with fluid and make a loop before putting the end of the hose down into the full (of fluid) catch bottle.

[Scud]

You can put in another hydraulic hose and position the bleeder valve much higher. This is what all the CARC bikes do. Here is a link to the part: 

 

[MartyNZ]

4 hours ago, cash1000 said:

Getting very frustrating putting V11 back together after gearbox work. I'm having trouble bleeding the clutch line.  Any thoughts?

Have you read the comments in the "No Clutch!" post?

https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/22529-no-clutch/?do=findComment&comment=259113

On 11 April 2021 @Tinknocker suggested zip-tying the clutch lever to the grip overnight. This assumes that you have got most of the air out of the system. The theory is that pressure in the system makes the air-bubbles smaller, so the bubbles can rise to places where they can escape in the next bleed attempt.

Then on 24 April @Lucky Philsuggested pushing fluid up from the slave with a syringe.

Lots of good advice there. 

I have some disposable 60ml syringes that you can have.

It is good practice not to let the reservoir get close to empty. With 6mm level remaining in the reservoir, I have seen a tiny whirlpool of air bubbles sucked down into the master cylinder when the lever is released quickly.

As @gstallons suggests, having the anti-drain loop above the slave cyl bleed nipple avoids the possibility of air being sucked in as the lever is released.