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Posted

With the driveshaft? It is aligned correctly isn't it? While a misaligned driveshaft itself won't cause the wheel to lock the forces imposed by the trunnions not being correctly aligned is certainly enough to bust stuff up.

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Posted
35 minutes ago, pete roper said:

With the driveshaft? It is aligned correctly isn't it? While a misaligned driveshaft itself won't cause the wheel to lock the forces imposed by the trunnions not being correctly aligned is certainly enough to bust stuff up.

I had driveshaft apart 6 months ago when I greased front grease nipple. I thought I put it back correctly. Will never know for certain now.

Posted

Swing arm out

Front universal joint out

Unfortunatley it looks and rotates fine

Next step secure bike so it won't fall over (It's on stand that it was on during Christchurch earthquakes so I'm just being careful)

Then tomorrow remove gearbox

 

Posted

While securing bike last remaining dregs of oil drained out of gear box leaving this swaff behind

Not good

 

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Posted

I'm about to start removing the gearbox.

Anything special I need to watch out for?

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Posted

Don't drop it on your foot. :whistle:

 

 

I hope you find the problem quickly, and that it is not too dramatic. :)

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Posted

On a more serious note:

I don't know for sure that this works with the "big block" Guzzis, but it is in the workshop manual for my "small block" V35 Imola. The constuction is similar enough that I reckon it should work.

Undo all the bolts to the gearbox, and then pull the clutch in. On mine, the gearbox then pops off a bit, and you can pull it off without too much bother. Hope that helps. :)

 

If it is still reluctant, hold a block of wood against the housing and persuade it a bit with a hammer against the wood block. Work your way around, and it should come off. ;)

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Posted
10 minutes ago, audiomick said:

...and then pull the clutch in....

It occurs to me that I need to clarify that.

On the "small block" models, as with the old Tonti frame "big blocks", you need to remove the upper frame to get the gearbox out. That means that the clutch cable is no longer connected. To activate the clutch to pop the gearbox off, you need to push in the lever on the back of the gearbox that the clutch cable is connected to.

I haven't had a look at the way the clutch works on the V11, but going by the parts lists, it looks like there is a rod through the gearbox that activates the clutch.

In your situation, I'd be inclined to try and leave the clutch system connected until the gearbox is separated, so as to be able to use the clutch lever to push it off. You'll have to have a look at the business yourself to see if that is possible. :huh2:

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Posted
3 hours ago, cash1000 said:

I'm about to start removing the gearbox.

Anything special I need to watch out for?

 

On 12/29/2022 at 5:23 AM, pete roper said:

Perhaps the nuts on the end of the shafts have loosened/spun off? That was the issue with the last V11 box I was buggering about with.

 

On 12/30/2022 at 11:20 PM, pete roper said:

Pop it in a box and send it to us if it is the gearbox. It shouldn't cost a huge amount and we have all the necessary tools.

I don't suppose we'll know much more until Pete gets "buggering about with it " . . . :luigi:  :sun:

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Posted

Thanks Doc for that. Didn't realise you needed to tilt motor. Nearly there. Got black frame tubing behind g/b to remove. Only problem so far is 2 of 3 screws holding grimca clutch m/c have seized. Will detach tubing instead

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Posted

Once you have this thing on the floor or bench. Make sure it's the box by turning both the input and output shafts, in all gears. 

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Posted
11 hours ago, cash1000 said:

Thanks Doc for that. Didn't realise you needed to tilt motor. Nearly there. Got black frame tubing behind g/b to remove. Only problem so far is 2 of 3 screws holding grimca clutch m/c have seized. Will detach tubing instead

My drawing is probably a bit misleading as it was an attempt to portray classic "crabbing" of the frame. Last time my gearbox came out, the motor was supported, front end strapped tightly into the wheel chock, and light straps to support the upper frame from the pannier racks. I did not even have to remove the frame side plates . . .

IMG_2563.JPG.jpeg

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