Driveshaft/Gearbox

[cash1000]

Vince had no problem dismantling the gearbox

Unfortunalty he found a bearing had failed

Concern is has debris from bearing damaged other bearings

Need to decide whether I get Vince to rebuild gearbox or find a 2nd hand box

 

 

[pete roper]

25 minutes ago, cash1000 said:

Vince had no problem dismantling the gearbox

Unfortunalty he found a bearing had failed

Concern is has debris from bearing damaged other bearings

Need to decide whether I get Vince to rebuild gearbox or find a 2nd hand box

 

 

Odd failure. I'd replace the bearing and see what happens. Make sure everything is cleaned out thoroughly and check the other bearings in the box.

[Pressureangle]

I'm with Pete. Wash everything out as well as possible, replace the failed bearing and drive on. 
On my last lube change I tried out Chevron Delo ESI 85/140. It's boron-based rather than ZDDP, has a thicker film surface and on my straight-cut gearbox made such a huge difference in noise that I wish I'd have measured it somehow. It's not on the shelf at your local auto parts but I think it's worth the wait to order.

[andy york]

Is that the Input shaft ?  Agreed that is an odd failure. As the experts have said, 

clean clean clean, make sure there is no loose bits in there, new bearing , 

reassemble and ride.

Andy

[Tomchri]

5 hours ago, Pressureangle said:

I'm with Pete. Wash everything out as well as possible, replace the failed bearing and drive on. 
On my last lube change I tried out Chevron Delo ESI 85/140. It's boron-based rather than ZDDP, has a thicker film surface and on my straight-cut gearbox made such a huge difference in noise that I wish I'd have measured it somehow. It's not on the shelf at your local auto parts but I think it's worth the wait to order.

Must say that Chevron got my attention. Oils oils .  Simple conclusion  we want the best for our machines. Had to ask again, nobody checked out Orion 870. 85-90. Has an amazing ability to follow the gears on the round trip. Climbing ability.  
Think about it, cars in the 60-70s , changing the oil in the manual tranny, don’t think to many was worried about yearly changes.

 Cheers guys Tom.

[cash1000]

Before I decide what I'm doing with the gearbox I want to see what condition the Clutch/plate & Flywheel are in.

The workshop manual says to remove the alternator first. Any idea why you need to do this? I've borrowed Locking Tool A and with a RAM clutch being 1 piece you don't need Tool B

 

[docc]

I did not have to remove the alternator (at the front of the engine) to dismantle the clutch and flywheel.

Good call to have a close look (dye inspection?) of your Rosso Mandello aluminum flywheel. Might as well unbolt the flywheel from the crank and (dye) inspect its forward surface. Make time to see to the common leak points. "Once and done."

Have you found a RAM replacement clutch/flywheel unit?

[MartyNZ]

4 hours ago, cash1000 said:

The workshop manual says to remove the alternator first. Any idea why you need to do this?

I've got the alternator off my bike at the moment. You are welcome to come over to look and see how little it will help with accessing the clutch.

BTW, the manual says "Screws “B” (flywheel bolts) must be replaced with new ones upon the following reassembly, due to the high load and stresses they are subject to; (apply thread locking product, Loctite, medium strength, to the screws and tighten to torques of Nm 40 ÷ 42)."

P/N GU12067701 Qty 6.

 

[footgoose]

I swapped out my clutch assembly, didn't remove the alt. IIRC, just stuck something in the start ring to stop turning. but I'm a shaved ape so... depends on your level of persnickety. In the bowels of this forum is most all the information you'll need to decide whether to swap to either a RAM aftermarket or an OEM dual plate clutch. Then any concern for the possibility of the aluminum flywheel failing will be gone. That's the road I took.

[fotoguzzi]

I have a used 10 spring clutch assembly with the flywheel included if anyone is interested. $350.US

 

[docc]

40 minutes ago, fotoguzzi said:

I have a used 10 spring clutch assembly with the flywheel included if anyone is interested. $250.

 

Is that a single plate clutch? Aluminum flywheel?

What did it come out of? How many miles?

[fotoguzzi]

No it has two friction plates, I guess one is not in the photo. I can get more pics if you want. It’s from a Centauro, I don’t know the mileage but the splines do not show much if any wear. I can shoot close ups if wanted.

[pete roper]

Good price. I wouldn't use the Surflex friction plates though and you'd need to swap the input shaft hub n the gearbox to fit it but still a much safer bet than a single plate unit with the fracture prone flywheel.

Oh, and the other friction plate is there, it's just behind/under the intermediate plate. You can see it's splines.

[cash1000]

18 hours ago, docc said:

I did not have to remove the alternator (at the front of the engine) to dismantle the clutch and flywheel.

Good call to have a close look (dye inspection?) of your Rosso Mandello aluminum flywheel. Might as well unbolt the flywheel from the crank and (dye) inspect its forward surface. Make time to see to the common leak points. "Once and done."

Have you found a RAM replacement clutch/flywheel unit?

No not yet. One step at a time. Picked up locking tool last night. So planning on opening up clutch tonight

[cash1000]

15 hours ago, MartyNZ said:

I've got the alternator off my bike at the moment. You are welcome to come over to look and see how little it will help with accessing the clutch.

BTW, the manual says "Screws “B” (flywheel bolts) must be replaced with new ones upon the following reassembly, due to the high load and stresses they are subject to; (apply thread locking product, Loctite, medium strength, to the screws and tighten to torques of Nm 40 ÷ 42)."

P/N GU12067701 Qty 6.

 

Good point about the screws. I wonder if they are Guzzi specfic or are available from any good fastners supplier