half-pull throttle availability???

[dlaing]

Our throttles are quarter-pull throttles.

I am seeking a throttle that gives more leverage and greater throttle control.

In the twisties it would be nice if a couple millimeters of throttle movement did not upset the bike as much as it does.

Sure I am getting better at controlling it, and it is exhillerating to blip the throttle an eighth of a turn and watch my girl friend's toes go over my knees as she nearly falls off the back, but I am too old for this shit and want a mellower control of the throttle.

Perhaps a half-pull is too much leverage and movement so, I'd be constantly readusting my grip....

Are there any alternatives out there?

PS (somewhat related) for what it is worth, convertibars sells throttle cables that are one inch longer than stock for anyone raising bars.

[Mike Stewart]

If I remember correctly, the Guzzi Sport Jingushi place in Japan had a different throttle lever where the cable attaches to. I think that would be a better solution. I tried to get on their web site but failed. Guess their web address changed.

 

Good luck,

Mike

[dlaing]

Is this the part ?

http://www.guzzisport.com/parts/catalog/v1...v11sp_gsj03.jpg

I will have to find a translator, but I seem to remember someone saying they sell only to Japan....

I also like their frame braces!

[Mike Stewart]

That would be the one!

 

Now I wonder if it makes the throttle a 1/2 turn or a 1/8 turn?

 

Mike

[al_roethlisberger]

Seems like it would be easy to have someone machine

[dlaing]

Seems like it would be easy to have someone machine

Good point!

the question then would be, will the throttle pull more cable? that is, will the throttle stop stop the pull?

[watanabetakemasa]

I bought JINGUSHI throtttle pulley.

not good for street use.

That was not what dlaing wanted to have.

Idle~1/4 is almost same as stock,but 1/2to full open

more smaller degree of throttle grip.

no profit for street,especially touring.

[emry]

If i recall doesn't the OEM throttle have two differnt slots for the cable. I remember taking mine apart and being able to remove the small cam that the cable attaches to in the throttle grip. I am pretty sure that the cam has two paths for the cable, one large and on small. The large would shorten the amount the throttle has to open whiel the small would create a longer turn.

 

I see if i can oull it apart tonight a post a pic. Or maybe I am just crazy.

 

[emry]

Side A creates a throttle pull that is about 1/4 of a turn; straight rate. (Some progressivness is gained at the throttle body). Side B is about 3/8's turn and is very progressive.

 

Perhaps you could trim down on side B to create a more linear pull that would also make for a longer turn.

[dlaing]

Thanks Emry!

I'll take a closer look.

I thought I remembered someone saying something about that, and I even peaked inside to see if there was a different groove running parallel...but there was not, but as you show there is another side!

[al_roethlisberger]

Side A creates a throttle pull that is about 3/8's of a turn; straight rate. (Some progressivness is gained at the throttle body). Side B is about 1/4 turn and is very progressive.

 

Perhaps you could trim down on side B to create a more linear pull that would also make for a longer turn.

 

Which side is used as stock? Side "A" or side "B"?

 

al

[emry]

If I recall side B is what my Scura was set on. I was happy because I could easily change it to a shorter pull.

 

 

And a big oops. Side A produces the shorter 1/4 turn and B creates the longer 3/8 turn. Sorry. Ive gone back to edit the old post to try a avoid confusion.

[dlaing]

I checked and mine was set to side B, so side A does not help.

I shaved the ramp down about a millimeter as I am afraid to muck it up.

It seems to add a little more to the turn, but I am still less than 1/4 turn.

So, I did some web surfing and found that many trial bike accessory places carry the Domino line of throttles and carry both slow and fast pull throttle tubes for them.

So I may go that route.

It would be nice if I could just by the slower throttle tube, but the complete assemblies are only about $20 US, and the tubes may be interchangeable.

I may checkout some dirtbike stores so that I can see the product rather than just a photo.

I could not find anything enlightening here

http://www.domino-tommaselli.com/

These are pretty!

http://www.valpolini.com/images/domino.jpg

made by Domino, marketed by valpolini for Jackal/Stone

[jrt]

These are pretty!

http://www.valpolini.com/images/domino.jpg

made by Domino, marketed by valpolini for Jackal/Stone

MGcycle carries them, but they ain't cheap.

J

[Guest ratchethack]

Hey, dlaing - Many thanks for your post on this. You inspired me to go after the problem that's been bugging me since I got my 2000 Sport a year ago. It's what you described - that nearly impossible to eliminate and completely annoying off/on throttle transition "chassis buck" that sets up (for example) when getting back on the throttle way deep in a high-speed sweeper. I was getting really tired of the way it too often tends to dictate a SURPRISE! new line inspired by "recovery" and self-preservation instincts...

 

Here's what I did. First, I made sure my twist grip was in the already progressive "B" mode (as mentioned above). To validate the idea that an even more progressive curve at the TB end of the throttle cable would have the desired result, I shoved 2 ea. lengths of insulated bell wire into the cable slot in the "throttle wheel" at the TB (one about 1 cm, one about 2 cm) where the off/on throttle transition resides. This had the effect of making the curve on the throttle wheel more progressive by about 2 mm increased radius at the throttle shaft, (BTW - this took up ALL the remaining slack in the cable, leaving ZERO adjustability). The result was a superior feel that was definitely noticeable but not enough of what I was after.

 

Next step - Using a scrap of 1/4" ABS stock, I cut out a new throttle wheel for the TB using the stock one as a guide. I maintained the stock curve but repositioned the TB throttle shaft 1 cm in the opposite direction from the "transition" end (the sharp corner) of the throttle plate. (Sorry, don't have any photos.) This provided a much more "aggressive" curve and required drilling the hole for the "barrel" end of the cable about 1 cm less far down the curve on the new piece to continue to afford a full range of adjustability for the cable at the bar end, if you follow.

 

I used typical tools for the fabrication doing semi-tedious stuff like this - a Dremel tool, drill press (I used forstner bits to countersink both sides of the throttle shaft hole), a belt sander to shape the curve, and a hand saw to cut the slot for the cable.

 

The final result is a 1/3-twist throttle with a much more progressive curve. It doesn't entirely solve the off/on chassis buck situation, but it makes it a whole lot more controllable and forgiving. In most cases I can eliminate it altogether. "Sport riding" in the mountain twisties, I find that I'm no longer putting a death grip on the bar in an attempt to aviod the drive-line snatch and chassis bucking that was previously so annoying. It's also a lot easier to control in traffic and in other situations. Overall comfort & enjoyment factor - WAY UP!