My Scura has acquired a cough - post TPS adjustment

[docc]

 

"If this solves it...let me know where to send a bottle of your choice of fine liquor!  " 

 

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[PJPR01]

Thanks Gstallons…I have your write up as well as a reference!  Fully aligned on the 0.157 as the TPS volt reading with the throttle plate fully closed.  That’s done now!

[gstallons]

 

now for all the other adjustments. EVERY one of them is critical. Make sure you follow these procedures and you understand what/why you are doing them. Once you have your epiphany , you will smack your forehead and think "this was too easy" .

[PJPR01]

11 hours ago, gstallons said:

 

now for all the other adjustments. EVERY one of them is critical. Make sure you follow these procedures and you understand what/why you are doing them. Once you have your epiphany , you will smack your forehead and think "this was too easy" .

You are 100% correct...the only epiphany I have had so far is that apparently I'm missing something or I have a wandering TPS even after snugged down and triple verified, but I'm patient enough to go thru it again and again until I get it right. 

I'd like to address the building of a small allen wrench with a 120 degree angle and a gear drive on it so I could just insert it and move a dial back and forth to turn that bloody RHS idle screw...it's a royal PITA to do it in such small increments.

I'm also realizing that I would enjoy this a bit more if I had a moto lift, but my garage space is too valuable to put another device in there at the moment between the sports car, 3 motorcycles, 4 bicycles, 2 unicycles and a few other toys!

[docc]

+1 on the value of a lift. I use mine for the Sport's parking place, so it only takes up "some" extra space.

A couple considerations on the right side idle stop. A long shaft "ball end" hex drive could be the ticket. Yet, many of us simply leave it defeated and use the left (easy access) stop and the throttle linkage for idle. 
 

This method might put more emphasis on final idle synchronization using the air bypass screws after using the linkage (white knob) to synch at "some rpm."

[gstallons]

I will have to check my tool box before I leave to see the SnapOn part # of the tool I use to play with this stuff.

[gstallons]

I think this is the correct stuff. If the screw uses a 3mm hex . I have a stubby 1/4" drive socket 3mm hex that is 26mm overall length . part # TMAMXS3E.  I have a 1/4" hex bit / 3mm hex . Part # SDMM2703B and it is 24mm overall length . W/the bit you can use a 1/4'' wrench to adjust the screw with.  You can Google these tools typing in Snapon then the part #

 I have a bunch of this stuff and this size has the most sockets. I brought the tray inside in case this is wrong , I can post more #s.

[gstallons]

As Columbo once said "just one more thing". When you are playing w/the adjustments , you are going to have to get familiar with the turn to distance ratio . as in one half turn equals 0.002" .Get you a SMALL feeler gauge set from NAPA and use it to see how much one turn will gain you. I did all this because I didn't know the thread pitch . e.g. : thread pitch is 1.25 , this is 1.25mm between thread. One turn gives you 1.25mm movement. You will use this when you are synchronizing the throttle plates.

[PJPR01]

Thanks again G…I’ve got the feeler gauge set at 0.002 and am using that to make sure I’ve got clearance on both sides of the idle screws.  Where I’m struggling is getting the bike to idle high enough with both idle screws not touching, linkage disconnected and Air screws backed out 1 full turn and high idle screw just letting the cam set to nudge.  The idle is just too low to keep it running under those conditions so, I end up having to find a way around it to get it warmed up enough to check CO trim and when doing the other adjustments, Somewhere in the middle of all of that the bike still coughs.

 

I’m going to try again tonight…turn my head sideways and cough….maybe the bike has a hernia! Ha ha!

[docc]

Getting the bike to idle high enough is what the idle stop screw(s) are for.

After all of the other steps are completed, simply use the left idle stop and put the idle where you (and the bike) like it.

[gstallons]

NoNoNoNo. the idle speed is set w/the idle speed screw Docc mentioned. 

[PJPR01]

It’s coughing up a storm.  Just for kicks I put new plugs in again…now it’s racing, instead of stumbling at idle…bloody schizophrenic Scura!

I’m going to leave it alone for a day…

Thanks both…will call G in the morning after a good overnight cooling down!

[docc]

10 minutes ago, PJPR01 said:

It’s coughing up a storm.  Just for kicks I put new plugs in again…now it’s racing, instead of stumbling at idle…bloody schizophrenic Scura!

I’m going to leave it alone for a day…

Thanks both…will call G in the morning after a good overnight cooling down!

That would make me suspicious of a damaged ignition wire, spark plug cap/resistor, or the connection between them . . .

[gstallons]

Get the meter out !  

Tomorrow you ca say EUREKA !

[docc]

3 minutes ago, gstallons said:

Get the meter out !  

Tomorrow you ca say EUREKA !

I recall the resistor is 5,000Ω and the ignition wire is another 5,000Ω.

Add the Wiggle Test: attach meter for the resistance test, then wiggle the wire and connector looking for variations/opens in the reading.