Guest bshpilot Posted June 3, 2004 Posted June 3, 2004 im planning on my 1st oil change. im wondering when i drop the pan & replace the gasket (after washing the screen) if i should apply any RTV (form a gasket)...is it necessary or "helpful" (i wanna avoid having leaks) i have the replacement guzzi gaskets, just wondering if when i put the new one on if i should use some rtv/form-a-gasket too. also is it necessary or suggested to apply lock-tite on the pan bolts ?
Guest Brian Robson Posted June 3, 2004 Posted June 3, 2004 Don't use any gasket goop at all. The only bolts you might want to blue locktite are the 2 holding the side stand plate on, otherwise at the correct torque they all seem to stay in place. The gasket can be reused several times if you are careful.
belfastguzzi Posted June 3, 2004 Posted June 3, 2004 Personally, it's no new gasket and copper anti-seize on the bolts, not loctite. The original gasket should still be good, just smear it with oil and bolt it back up. Although the oil and filter can be changed without dropping the pan, I think it's worth taking it off most times as you can clean out all the emulsion that gathers in it.
Guest rrbasso Posted June 3, 2004 Posted June 3, 2004 Blue lock-tite is your friend a littel goes a long way i blue everything, and some times when it feels right I use Red.
Guest jerroldt Posted June 4, 2004 Posted June 4, 2004 I agree with using anti-seize on the pan screws. I did it for ten years with no problems. I also think that taking the pan down for cleaning is a good practice and eliminates the problems caused by trying to replace the filter using the filter access cover and and then just changing the oil. If you change oil regularly and torque the pan screws properly, why use a sealant, the factory didn't!
Guest bshpilot Posted June 4, 2004 Posted June 4, 2004 I agree with using anti-seize on the pan screws. I did it for ten years with no problems. I also think that taking the pan down for cleaning is a good practice and eliminates the problems caused by trying to replace the filter using the filter access cover and and then just changing the oil. If you change oil regularly and torque the pan screws properly, why use a sealant, the factory didn't! the factory also didnt do LOTS of things they SHOULD have...even when they KNOW repeatedly they were doin' 'em wrong (shift springs, relays, engine paint...) so i appreciate the advice & experiance this forum provides...
twhitaker Posted June 6, 2004 Posted June 6, 2004 It's a piece of cake. Antisieze paste on the pan screws. Sidestand screws do not need to come off. A light coating of oil on the pan gasket facing the crankcase makes it easy to remove the next time. I permatex the gasket to the pan to make sure the gasket comes down with the pan. My 96 California 1100i has 60,000 miles (read 20 filter changes) and I'm still on the original gaskets. Same deal with the rocker boxes.
Guest ksann Posted June 6, 2004 Posted June 6, 2004 I just changed my oil for the first time last night. Easy to drop the pan. Easy to remove the filter that way. have no fears, and forget about opening that access cover for the filter. Just remove the 14 (or so) bolts, and drop the pan (after you drain it, and you will still be surprised how much dirty oil stays in the pan after it stops dripping from the plug. ken
Guest bshpilot Posted June 23, 2004 Posted June 23, 2004 ok finally got the the oil change...i own the factory man. if any one needs questions answered (it leaves plenty to be desired) interestingly enough the factory pic doesnt show the drain plug as the lowest plug in the pan....but now that ive had the pan off i know which one to pull next time anyone know the torque settings for the pan bolts ??? i dont see it in the factory man. (unless its the vague 8-12 nmeters suggestion for so many others)
TX REDNECK (R.I.P.) Posted June 23, 2004 Posted June 23, 2004 (unless its the vague 8-12 nmeters suggestion forso many others) Dont use anymore torque than you would use to screw off the lid of a bottle of fine wine
Guest bshpilot Posted June 23, 2004 Posted June 23, 2004 (unless its the vague 8-12 nmeters suggestion forso many others) Dont use anymore torque than you would use to screw off the lid of a bottle of fine wine whoa i wouldnt be able to make that comparison...THANK GOD how bout something i can relate too....like no more torque than it might take me to pull the top on a beer can. but seriously my thought on torque settings to some degree...specially on a large pan like this...is its more important to get it bolted on SMOOTH and evenly than how TIGHT (assuming that youve got it tight enough to keep it on but not tight enough to break the bolt)
twhitaker Posted June 23, 2004 Posted June 23, 2004 8 to 12 nm equals 6 to 9 lb/ft Not a very picky specification. I've never bothered to use a torque wrench or gasket sealer.
belfastguzzi Posted June 23, 2004 Posted June 23, 2004 Dont use anymore torque than you would use to screw off the lid of a bottle of fine wine Do bottles of fine wine have lids? Perhaps you meant peanut butter?
Guest GGuzzi Posted June 23, 2004 Posted June 23, 2004 Dont use anymore torque than you would use to screw off the lid of a bottle of fine wine Do bottles of fine wine have lids? Perhaps you meant peanut butter? Actually some do.
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