GEI relay retrofit

[Guest Gary Cheek]

Hey Tex,

 

Of course ,it would be great if you would do it . In fact you should do a batch of 30 and I can point you to a good source for ALL the parts you will need . I will forward to you a list of people who have already sent me email expressing a desire . Don't forget to include a wire to run from the headlight back to a good frame ground . Let me know if there is ANYTHING else I can do to help .

 

Email me when you get a chance

 

Thanks for the consideration my friend .

 

 

Dlaing,

 

Yes it fits right inside the bucket . I use a bracket secured to the inside of the shell by one of the mount bolts ,very tidy.

The heavy load of the headlight in some cases HAS caused the IGNITION switch to develop higher resistance ,especially on hot days . My own V11 had that problem ,along with the goofy clutch switch . I now have a high brightness LED wired to the supply side of the clutch micro switch . When the start button is depressed the light indicates voltage present to that point .

I will add photos of the relays in the bucket at my website very soon .

[al_roethlisberger]

...along with the parts, wires, and relays... I think it would be better if sockets for the two relays could be used as opposed to hard-wiring between the terminals of the relays themselves.

 

This would allow much easier servicing in case a relay died, and reduce confusion.

 

I'm going ot see if I can find a socket, or maybe a salvage block from a V11 to do this.... and mount it up in the fairing.

 

al

[Guest Gary Cheek]

Al,

I have always used sockets ,except in a few rare cases where space was a premium . You bet sockets are the way to go , even though I have yet to see a single failure of a Bosch or Omron relay in this application . The source I have given sells sockets and the appropriate tools for crimping . Along with the crimping ,which makes a good mechanical connection I also use silver bearing soft solder to prvide an excellent corrosion resistant electrical connection . Next a piece of dual wall shrink tube is slipped over the joint to provide a good strain relief . Whenever possible I prefer to install the relays right in the headlight shell as this keeps the added wiring to a minimum and keeps the relays and connections out of the weather and harm'd way .

 

If you check out the pictures you will notice the harnesses I have been making up indeed use heavy duty OEM style relay sockets .

 

http://community.webshots.com/album/108744431PhmXQC

 

(page 2, center)

 

No doubt TX is intending a similar setup .

[TX REDNECK (R.I.P.)]

No doubt TX is intending a similar setup .

Yeah Gary basicaly what I was gonna do was rip off your set up I was talking to Mike at MPH last weekend about this same thing & he also had few people interested also. I'm gonna see Mike again this weekend & work out the details & I'll be getting hold of you too . Thanx again Gary

[al_roethlisberger]

Al,

I have always used sockets ,except in a few rare cases where space was a premium . You bet sockets are the way to go , even though I have yet to see a single failure of a Bosch or Omron relay in this application . The source I have given sells sockets and the appropriate tools for crimping . Along with the crimping ,which makes a good mechanical connection I also use silver bearing soft solder to prvide an excellent corrosion resistant electrical connection . Next a piece of dual wall shrink tube is slipped over the joint to provide a good strain relief . Whenever possible I prefer to install the relays right in the headlight shell as this keeps the added wiring to a minimum and keeps the relays and connections out of the weather and harm'd way .

 

If you check out the pictures you will notice the harnesses I have been making up indeed use heavy duty OEM style relay sockets .

 

http://community.webshots.com/album/108744431PhmXQC

 

(page 2, center)

 

No doubt TX is intending a similar setup .

 

Ahh, very good, I didn't see those photos

 

Keep in mind though that the headlight bucket on the LeMans bikes is very different than the Sports, and there really isn't much of any room in there with the reflector.

 

I think that one would have to have the relays mounted/lashed somewhere up in the fairing.

 

So, is someone going to offer this as a kit then? That's the way it sounds. If so, I'll just wait instead of rigging it up myself. I think the LeMans setup would require a bit different hookup based on the slightly different wiring/harness design, but I can redo the wire ends myself, so that's no problem.

 

I emailed MPH about their kit they mentioned they were making, but never heard back

 

 

al

[TX REDNECK (R.I.P.)]

Al,

  I have always used sockets ,except in a few rare cases where space was a premium  strain relief . Whenever possible I prefer to install the relays right in the headlight shell as this keeps the added wiring to a minimum and keeps the relays and connections out of the weather and harm'd way .

 

  If you check out the pictures you will notice the harnesses I have been making up indeed use heavy duty OEM style relay sockets .

 

http://community.webshots.com/album/108744431PhmXQC

 

    (page 2, center)

 

  No doubt TX is intending a similar setup .

 

 

Keep in mind though that the headlight bucket on the LeMans bikes is very different than the Sports, and there really isn't much of any room in there with the reflector.

 

I think that one would have to have the relays mounted/lashed somewhere up in the fairing.

 

So, is someone going to offer this as a kit then?

I emailed MPH about their kit they mentioned they were making, but never heard back

 

 

al

Al, sorry nobody at MPH got back to you, but you have hit on the big snag, when it comes to offering a kit.Some of the Cali's & I believe the Centauro have smaller headlight buckets & space is at a premium too. Mikes time is to valuable to sit around making these, now me, " I work a lot cheaper " However , do you try to make a universal kit ? or do you make different versions ? How many of these can you actualy sell ? & what price would somebody pay ? Anyway this is something that me & MPH have to work out . I ask that those who are interested send a e mail to MPH & let them know , anlong with what kind of Guzzi you have too. http://www.mphcycles.com/

[Guest Gary Cheek]

While I prefer to use metal brackets to mount the sockets ,strictly for workmanlike "factory" appearance , there is really little to prevent using a GOOD qulality two sided tape as is used for mounting automotive trim . The 3M stuff works great and allows the relays to lay flat in even the tightest housings .

Failing that , 2 kit types should cover most all Guzzi platforms . An inside the shell and an outside the shell type should be adaptable to all applications .

[al_roethlisberger]

Well, let us know when you will know if you are going to do this or not.... and if not where I can source the relay sockets that were used.

 

If you aren't going to do this as a whole kit any time soon, I'd like to get some of the sockets so I can build my own harness

 

Thanks

al

[TX REDNECK (R.I.P.)]

Well, let us know when you will know if you are going to do this or not....

Ok Al, we're not gonna do it :!: Since your getting impatient, you go ahead & do it.That way it will be just like you want it to be

[al_roethlisberger]

Well, let us know when you will know if you are going to do this or not....

Ok Al, we're not gonna do it :!: Since your getting impatient, you go ahead & do it.That way it will be just like you want it to be

 

 

*shrug* ....OK

 

 

Anyway, Gary, where did you pick up those sockets?

 

Thanks

 

al

[docc]

I looked but did not see your recommendation for the wire size of the hot feed. I used 16 guage but have heard suggestions all the way to 12 guage.

 

Also worth considering is the routing from the battery and whether you want to add one more terminal on the stack or wire in a junction block.

 

It seems like 20 amps is a mighty big fuse for a couple lamp filaments. I've been running a 7.5a ( but carry spares). Any rational on the fuse size?

 

No doubt this modification and wiring the horns with dedicated relays is good medicine!

[Guest Gary Cheek]

Hi Doc ,

The total length of wire involved makes 16 gauge a real good number .I mentioned on a different site that I use 16 gauge or 14 gauge in this application . Also not mentioned often enough is an improved grond ; right from the light to the FRAME ,NOT the forks . If the run were 30 feet or longer a bump up may be in order . The measured voltage drop with the relay circuit using 16 gauge wire is about 1/10 volt . The factory wiring can run 4 volts! Using 12 gauge will not make an easily measurable ,much less a noticeable difference . The heavier wire only adds to the bulk going around the neck up to the light . No real need to fuse close to the intended load ,better to fuse according to the wire capacity . Fuses actually lose their capacity if they flow close to the rated current over time .Some of the higher wattage halogens would pop a 7.5 amp fuse on a hot day . It is best to have a safety margin to help avoid possible blown fuses at just the wrong time .

 

At the battery where there is room I often add a copper buss junction . You can also make up a three into one wire junction if you like . On the sport bikes where space is tight I just go ahead and add "one more terminal" at the battery .

 

It still beats tapping the already marginal wiring at so many Guzzi fuse blocks or butchering the harness . Of course you could tap the battery lead down at the starter if you can find a suitable fuse spot . Fusible links are worth consideration too . (beeter carry a spare )

[docc]

Good advice all the way round! I really need to find a grounding point forward on the frame to earth the lights and horns as they are grounded back through the harness as stock.

[Guest Gary Cheek]

I like to use a flat woven braid between the headlight bucket and the frame . This will help to provide a low resistance electrical shunt path around the head bearings. As you can imagine ,even a small current flowing through the contact points within an anti friction bearing can and will etch the surfaces.

The lowered resistance also improves the lighting markedly in most cases.

The braid is very flexible and adds little drag at the neck. It may be up made from the woven shield jacket from quality co-axial cable. Simply strip the outer insulation then slide off and flaten the woven braid .

 

Good luck .

[dlaing]

Howdy Y'all,

Just thought I'd follow up and say that my GEI relay has lasted about a year now.

The Bosch were failing on the starter relay after just a few weeks, due to overloading of the relay as discussed at

http://www.guzzitech.com/RelayFailures-David_L.html

I highly recommend the switch to the GEI relay for the starter relay (forward most relay) on early V11 sixspeeds.

Your mileage may vary, but if you use the horn or the flasher, it makes a difference.

But of course the rewire that Gary mentions, is an even better idea.