belfastguzzi Posted June 11, 2004 Posted June 11, 2004 ? :!: This isn't a good picture of my oil cooler etc. it's just one I happened to have, but still you might be able to see that your front end arrangements seem to be quite different. Did yours come like that from new? Your horns are higher and the cooler is probably lower. The tranny case is curved – at the top the smallest gap is around 8mm. That is quite a lot, compared to 0mm.
al_roethlisberger Posted June 11, 2004 Posted June 11, 2004 Yeah, whilst not "as common" on the late model V11 bikes, the front mounted fuel-pump(in Jaap's example) was used on the Sport1100 and Centauro. I've seen several Tenni's with this arrangement as well. As discussed in this old thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=894&hl= It is an odd arrangement to see on a V11 for sure though I think MG was aware of the vapor lock issue, and that along with the "variable" assembly line parts and techniques at the factory(whatever Luigi grabbed and ws handy ) ... the fuel pumps were in at least 3 different locations(out front, under the spine, above the spine) through the V11 Sport life up to 2003 when they finally went with the new in-tank systems. al
Martin Barrett Posted June 12, 2004 Posted June 12, 2004 Another issue with pods dirrect on to the throttle bodies or on to the intake rubbers. Is the overall length and how that effects harmonics. I know they they used to tune the inlet trumpets for length in much the same way as exhaust length. Does it make any difference? Another project/study for AL?
gthyni Posted June 12, 2004 Posted June 12, 2004 Another issue with pods dirrect on to the throttle bodies or on to the intake rubbers. Is the overall length and how that effects harmonics. I know they they used to tune the inlet trumpets for length in much the same way as exhaust length. Does it make any difference? Another project/study for AL? Martin, if we were talking race bike airboxes it would be a good point. The air box in that case is optimized to increase power in specified rpm range. Our airboxes (airboxen?) a primarily there to reduce the noise, second they are usually designed to fit whatever space is available. Tuning to "pillar of air" is hardly a considation in street bikes in general and in the V11s case: popping the lid of and getting instant power doesn't make me thing we have an specially optimized airbox.
Guest robbrugg Posted June 12, 2004 Posted June 12, 2004 So - with all this pod V.S. modified airbox theorizing, is it possible for me to modify the airbox WITHOUT the FBF kit? For a little boost? Robb
emry Posted June 12, 2004 Posted June 12, 2004 You can make a small bracket to hold down your airfilter if you are handy with a hacksaw. I used some thin angle iron that I got from the local hardware store. Haven't had any problems.
al_roethlisberger Posted June 13, 2004 Posted June 13, 2004 ....or just saw off the top of the airbox lid. I've seen several people do that. "free" is good al
belfastguzzi Posted June 13, 2004 Posted June 13, 2004 Or keep it simple. I sealed the stock paper filter onto the bottom half of the box with instant gasket and gaffa tape. If I keep it like this for a while, I think I would put the top of the box back on for the winter, when the paper filter would be vulnerable to wet weather.
Admin Jaap Posted June 13, 2004 Posted June 13, 2004 The middle of the bar supports on the tranny. I have to correct myself. This afternoon I checked again with daylight and noticed there is still a gap of about 10 mm between the bar and the tranny.
belfastguzzi Posted June 13, 2004 Posted June 13, 2004 The middle of the bar supports on the tranny. I have to correct myself. This afternoon I checked again with daylight Correct translation: (with daylight) = "when I was sober"
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