activpop Posted February 5, 2023 Posted February 5, 2023 While trying to remove rear section of drive line today I came across two concerning problems. First I noticed drive line reference marks were not lined up, which has me believe somebody removed it at one time and put it back willy nilly. The other thing is I assumed the two parts would separate easily because the splined male and female sides would have enough lube to just slide out, but that is not the case. I did put a little pressure on it and some taps with a wood block but if it moved it might have been 1/16" if at all. any clue to what is going on here or what i am doing wrong? I know this bike wasn't used much and was stored in a garage that remains quite moist during Oregon winters. Is it possible it is rusted?
docc Posted February 5, 2023 Posted February 5, 2023 You can verify that the marks are correct by seeing that the trunions of the front and rear shaft yokes are aligned. [image courtesy of @Baldini]: And, yes, the rear should slide off. It makes me wonder of grease having hardened in there. How about some judicious heat from a heat gun or hair dryer (just remember to put it back before the wife reaches for it in the morning!) . . . 3
activpop Posted February 5, 2023 Author Posted February 5, 2023 I have both a hair dryer and heat gun on my rig, that was my next step along with maybe a shot of liquid wrench. Question, why in the left hand pic the caption reads marks aligned, but the trunnions definitely dont look aligned as in the right hand pic? That RH pic clearly shows index marks are mated correctly. Hard to tell on LH pic where the index marks are. Is that caption right? Trunnions are caddy wompus.
docc Posted February 5, 2023 Posted February 5, 2023 2 minutes ago, activpop said: I have both a hair dryer and heat gun on my rig, that was my next step along with maybe a shot of liquid wrench. Question, why in the left hand pic the caption reads marks aligned, but the trunnions definitely dont look aligned as in the right hand pic? That RH pic clearly shows index marks are mated correctly. Hard to tell on LH pic where the index marks are. Is that caption right? Trunnions are caddy wompus. Baldini was showing the marks can be incorrect in the image, far left.
andy york Posted February 5, 2023 Posted February 5, 2023 you might try hydraulics. Use your grease gun on the zero fitting and see if you can get it to move. If so , just remember to clean out some of the grease so you put it back together 2
activpop Posted February 6, 2023 Author Posted February 6, 2023 1 hour ago, andy york said: you might try hydraulics. Use your grease gun on the zero fitting and see if you can get it to move. If so , just remember to clean out some of the grease so you put it back together I got it out. A little tension and rapping with the rubber mallet and it came little by little. The rust on the outside of the female spline was the culprit, it was grabbing the interior of the tube it slips into. Double whammy here...bike sat unused and PO didn't believe in lubrication. I got rid of all the rust. What you are referring to as the zero fitting is the one on the tube exterior not the one inside the joint i assume. That one wont take any grease, plugged somwhere, have it soaking now to see if i can free it. Does that one feed the splines? One axis of the uni is smooth, the other isnt right. I hope I can get a replacement, will look now. Havent checked out front one yet. What did docc tell me...expect owner involvement? 🤔 Its all good though, I like things to be right and I like wrenching around. First guzzi for me but have wanted one for decades, sadly too many.
docc Posted February 6, 2023 Posted February 6, 2023 Yep, the shaft Zerk fitting is for the splines. Too much lube and the pressure will impair free sliding motion. Rear uni? Or the nefarious front uni? The front one is most likely to suffer from neglect.
activpop Posted February 6, 2023 Author Posted February 6, 2023 Yep, it is a bad Zerk fitting...rusted shut. Took it out and free flowing through the hole. Gotta get some of them and check/remove the front uni. If it is notorious, I suspect it will be worse than the the rear. Learning little by little what to look for in these bikes...mostly an owner who has taken care of the little things so they dont turn into big things. Good thing I got this for a good price. 2
docc Posted February 6, 2023 Posted February 6, 2023 Sounds like a good time to remove the swingarm. It is not a bad job with the bike well supported. This gives full access to the front U-joint, inspect the swingarm bearings, bleed the clutch, service the main electrical ground to the back of the gearbox . . . 1
activpop Posted February 6, 2023 Author Posted February 6, 2023 Oh what fun. V100 sounds better all the time! 3
MartyNZ Posted February 6, 2023 Posted February 6, 2023 6 hours ago, andy york said: you might try hydraulics. Use your grease gun on the zero fitting and see if you can get it to move. If so , just remember to clean out some of the grease so you put it back together It seems like an obvious solution, but no, there are holes in the lower end of the shaft. The holes stop excess grease from forming a hydraulic lock during normal suspension movement.
deadpen69 Posted February 6, 2023 Posted February 6, 2023 7 hours ago, activpop said: Oh what fun. V100 sounds better all the time! I was saying the same thing a year ago except my alternative was an R Nine-T! Once you get done fact finding and get this bike sorted it will be worth it! Have you sourced an upper gearbox bracket yet? 2
guzziart Posted February 6, 2023 Posted February 6, 2023 Hi All. Hey Deadpen.... What is the upper gearbox bracket about? I don't know if I have one or need one??!! '03 v11 Lemans here. Hey activpop.... I found the driveshaft on my v11 Lemans to be out of phase too, someone had neglected to phase it with factory alignment marks that were properly marked. And, the same character that fuzzed up shaft alignment probably was the one who installed the large i.d. washer that normally resides between the rear drive & swing arm installed it between the wheel drive splines and rear drive drive splines. I'm glad I realized what was going on there because it resulted in only half of the wheel splines engaging into the gearbox splines. Crazy, eh??!! Art 2
docc Posted February 6, 2023 Posted February 6, 2023 2 minutes ago, guzziart said: Hi All. Hey Deadpen.... What is the upper gearbox bracket about? I don't know if I have one or need one??!! '03 v11 Lemans here. Art The upper gearbox bracket was feature on the pre-V11 Sport. It can be fitted, with some fiddling, to the early V11 Red Frame Sports, but not the Rosso Mandello ShortFrame. Risk of a gearbox case crack at the mounting point is theoretically mitigated by the addition of this bracket to a Red Frame. Later (2002 and on) LongFrame are braced across the gearbox at the bottom from the lower rear subframe and no frame bracket for this piece. 1
activpop Posted February 6, 2023 Author Posted February 6, 2023 1 hour ago, guzziart said: Hi All. Hey Deadpen.... What is the upper gearbox bracket about? I don't know if I have one or need one??!! '03 v11 Lemans here. Hey activpop.... I found the driveshaft on my v11 Lemans to be out of phase too, someone had neglected to phase it with factory alignment marks that were properly marked. And, the same character that fuzzed up shaft alignment probably was the one who installed the large i.d. washer that normally resides between the rear drive & swing arm installed it between the wheel drive splines and rear drive drive splines. I'm glad I realized what was going on there because it resulted in only half of the wheel splines engaging into the gearbox splines. Crazy, eh??!! Art Yeah, those marks are not obscure...two white slashes on mine. It's a no brainer. 1
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