Rear Wheel For Tire Change

[Janusz]

So I've removed wheels to have new tires installed at the shop.

Should I disassemble the rear wheel and remove cush drive rubbers for tire installation and balancing or take the whole wheel to the shop?

I would like to inspect/grease etc cush drive rubbers but it seems difficult to me and the factory shop manual is not very helpful. It wants me to:

"Working on the opposite side remove the bearing and then lift the plate with gearing (do they mean spline drive??) using two screwdrivers."

Could somebody walk me through this using simple explanation please?

 

[docc]

By all means have the whole thing balanced as an assembly.

I have only removed and lubricated my cush drive once, so I don't really remember the process. I seem to recall @MartyNZ posted some nice insights on this job . . .

edit: I found these nine search results:

https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/search/?&q=cush drive&author=MartyNZ&search_and_or=and

 

[docc]

I don't know if this is any help, but I found this image:

[MartyNZ]

6 hours ago, Janusz said:

So I've removed wheels to have new tires installed at the shop.

Should I disassemble the rear wheel and remove cush drive rubbers for tire installation and balancing or take the whole wheel to the shop?

I would like to inspect/grease etc cush drive rubbers but it seems difficult to me and the factory shop manual is not very helpful. It wants me to:

"Working on the opposite side remove the bearing and then lift the plate with gearing (do they mean spline drive??) using two screwdrivers."

Could somebody walk me through this using simple explanation please?

 

I'd say "don't disassemble the wheel & cush assembly" The tire can be changed as it is.

Also don't lose the bush that goes on the axle between the wheel and the bevel box. It's needed to get bearing preloads right.

If you're like me and can't help pulling it apart, then the following pictures may help.

  The retaining plate screws are likely to be frozen. Heat and penetrating oil are your friends. How hot, you ask? Well the rear disk can be red hot without other damage, but 60°C would be safe.

Then you can lift the splined plate out.

[MartyNZ]

Then you can see 12 rubber pucks in recesses in the wheel hub. Some people grease the recesses and the non-metallic ring. I coated these with moly dry lube spray.

You can see that I fitted only half of the pucks in my bike, and they were drilled to be more squishy. 

As you assemble, check that the O-ring is good, and there is wheel bearing grease on the spline plate bore.

Before you refit the wheel, put a good layer of spline grease like Staburags NBU 30 PTM on the splines at the connection to the bevel box.   

[Janusz]

Thank you for this detailed and straightforward information, Marty. It is highly appreciated.

And docc, you can be always counted on. Thanks.

This crowbar surgery seems quite radical; should I expect the spline disc to be rust frozen and difficult to separate? I will be anxious not to damage it...

 

[Pressureangle]

Note; last time apart, I lubricated my drive rubbers with silicone grease. Works a charm! 
Except for the part where when it gets warm it ejects blackened silicone grease out the cracks and paints my rear rim with gooey tar. Fortunately it cleans up easily. 
The message here is use lube sparingly. I'd use spray silicone next time, and just a dusting. 

[MartyNZ]

9 hours ago, Janusz said:

This crowbar surgery seems quite radical; should I expect the spline disc to be rust frozen and difficult to separate? I will be anxious not to damage it...

The spline plate can be hard to remove. The fins that engage the rubber blocks are tight, so you need a way to pry it out. A crowbar is bigger than you need, any pry bar is fine so long as you don't damage the wheel.

[audiomick]

2 hours ago, MartyNZ said:

The spline plate can be hard to remove.

Not only on the V11. In my experience, getting the bit out that sticks into the cush drive is nearly always a bit of a pain.

[Pressureangle]

23 hours ago, audiomick said:

Not only on the V11. In my experience, getting the bit out that sticks into the cush drive is nearly always a bit of a pain.

I think the drive in my '89 Mille had never been opened. Dry, a little corrosion on the aluminum hub, a little rust on the steel drive plate. Add 30 years and it was a bit like changing a very stiff motocross knobby with a pair of 6" screwdrivers. It only popped out with two 24" pry bars and the abandonment of any concern for damage to the hub or splines.