docc Posted March 5, 2023 Author Posted March 5, 2023 Haha, well, time to give some additional consideration to what is under the seat . . . First, battery: > Notice how the seat has been cutting into the hold down strap. This could also indicate undesirable seat pressure on the battery case. While the seat pan can be relieved with a rotary cutter (Dremel®), consider a "battery basket drop" that places the forward basket mounts beneath the subframe. Drops the battery considerably and no more interference seat <-> battery. > The terminal stacks are prone to loosening and developing corrosion. While a simple loosening and dose of Caig DeOxit® would be well advised, tightening might best be achieved changing those fasteners to hex heads. Consider adding L-brackets. > Check the date code on the Odyssey PC545 and learn to "condition" it, especially if the static voltage has dropped below the 85% (12.65 volt) threshold. > While not actually under the seat, the battery negative cable leaves this are to connect to the back right of the gearbox. This is THE critical main ground. Be absolutely certain it gets cleaned, serviced, and sealed regularly. Next, ECU: > Check that the isolation blocks that fasten the ECU are intact. Very common that they separate and should be re-adhered or replaced. > Make certain the ECU case ground wire connection terminal is clean, treated (DeOxit), and tight. Be careful not to make a connection with your wrench to the nearby Positive Battery Terminal! > Groom the connectors lying on top of the ECU off to the side so the seat is not pressing on the ECU through those connectors. Relays (shown as the topic of discussion, image above, upper left, dismounted and taped): > Learn about "Best Relay" applications and Relay Base Repair. > It is evident when inspecting under the seat when there is seat pan contact with the relays. There are very distinct signs of abrasion and "dusting", dulling, or chafing where there has been contact. Good method to observe the corners and edges of your relays for this and take action to create clearance. Fuse Block and tail connectors: > The connectors that have been dragged into the tool tray can easily be serviced (cleaned, treated, tightened) and tucked back out of the way. > Open the Fuse Block lid and treat (DeOxit) all of the fuse connections. Carefully inspect the green 30 amp Fuse #3 (Charging/Regulator) for signs of excessive heat (melting/deformed case or burnt blades without "blowing the fuse"). Any signs of heat should lead to certainty that the Regulator case has an additonal ground strap directly to the engine timing chest. > By prying the fuse block up out of its isolation blocks you can inspect, tighten, and treat the hidden spade connectors that feed the Fuel/Ignition and ECU relays. 2 2
docc Posted March 5, 2023 Author Posted March 5, 2023 Proper conditioning of the OEM Hawker Odyssey matters: As well as attention to the critical relays "under the seat" . . . 1 2
docc Posted March 5, 2023 Author Posted March 5, 2023 @MartyNZ suggested this link to the nefarious, melting 30 amp charging fuse: 3 1
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