Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

And no reason not to use the thicker paper gaskets as they have been proven reliable, Pete?

Your choice, they both improve on the original gasket! 

The metal core gaskets are actually a bit thinner than the better paper ones - 0.5mm to 0.9mm respectively according to Rolf’s measurements -  and since you need two with the roper plate, they will reduce the stack height some but not by any significant amount.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
14 hours ago, docc said:

With this occurring after a recent oil change, it would be good follow-up to check the oil level (yes, a Roper Plate moves the sump oil lower and away from the pick-up. Seems to me that the upper mark on the stick remains valid as the full mark, regardless of the volume added.

The general consensus on the oil level with a Roper plate installed is to keep it right below the plate. 

It’s a good idea to mark your dipstick at that level during install. A small drilled hole works well.

Posted

I wonder if that metal gasket

Would also install onto the earlier bikes?

AFAIK there's no difference to the crankcase between the earlier bikes and the V11, I've no clue about the CARC bikes and later models.

Would offer any advantage if installed onto them?

Personally I'm thinking about also putting one onto my LM1000 engine, as well as the 1100 and HiCam which are both broadsumps.

Posted

Either will do the job. Is there an *Ideal* solution? Don't ask me! I know the thicker aftermarket gaskets fix the problem. I'm pretty sure Rolf's suggestion has equal merit!

All I suggest is that for CARC bikes you get rid of the earlier, truly shit, original gasket.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 2
Posted
12 hours ago, al_roethlisberger said:

 

Other than cost (paper is about $5, metal core is about $13), why wouldn't two of the better metal core gaskets be a better choice to sandwich the Roper plate between?

Is there some concern or drawback to using two of the metal core gaskets?

One can never have too much insurance. The only concern is cost, and this is not a place I'd save money. I don't have metal core gaskets in mine, but I will if the sump ever comes off again. 
I recommend replacing the stock sump bolts with 5mm longer ones, to be sure you have full thread engagement. Nobody wants stripped sump threads. 

  • Like 3
Posted
4 hours ago, biesel said:

From my V11 Lemans day I can remember that also loose oil filters caused this problem.
Owners did not use a tool + torque wrench + 15 Nm.

Maybe the gasket of the oil filters can cause problems. This one comes with an improved one:
https://hmb-moto.de/Oil-Filter-Cali-1100-V11-Breva-Griso-Norge-etc

 

 

 

Do we know the UFI filter part number with the improved gasket in the link above to see if we have a supplier in the USA to avoid shipping from Germany?  For the filter and filter wrench, it's about $100 shipping as the only option :o

 

The listing above doesn't show the UFI filter number.

 

I wonder if this is the equivalent, the SKUs are the same, so probably:

 

https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1185

Posted

If it isn't already, it might be nice to add the "Valpollini" metal/wire core gasket options to the "compatible parts" thread for the engine/sump gasket, valve/rocker cover gasket, and from the thread below perhaps even timing chain/gear cover.

 

 

ENGINE SUMP GASKET CALIFORNIA 1400 SERIES, GRISO 1200 8V

PART NUMBER: B063861

https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=5495

 

 

VALVE COVER GASKET METAL BREVA 11/12 GRISO VINTAGE NORGE 976139

PART NUMBER: 976139B

https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4634

 

 

METAL CORE TIMING COVER GASKET, BIG TWINS UNTIL 2009 GU05001230

PART NUMBER: 12001200M

https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=5044

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

A 0-100 psi gauge is cheap insurance against under-pressure.

As others have said the oil slops to the rear under acceleration exposing the pump suction.

Posted
9 hours ago, Kiwi_Roy said:

A 0-100 psi gauge is cheap insurance against under-pressure.

As others have said the oil slops to the rear under acceleration exposing the pump suction.

 

For those interested in adding a full-time oil-pressure gauge, Motratech used to make a kit, but of course they are now long out of business.

 

But if anyone replicates (or already has done so) that setup on their own, it might be helpful to post a how-to with parts and then it can be added to the FAQ section.

 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...