correct guzzidiag program download?

[red lion]

I found device manager on my computer. I then plugged in the FTDI cable and down loaded the program again. now when I plug in the FTDI cable, The device manager lists com port 3 under other devices. I will try the Guzzidiag again today.  

[red lion]

GuzziDiag  connected and worked fine and was very easy this time. thank you all for all the help. My CO trim was -11, Now at zero on the 2002 LeMans. Would  -11 cause the bike to poorly? Do some bikes run better on the plus side of zero? I'll ride it on saturday.

[docc]

2 hours ago, red lion said:

GuzziDiag  connected and worked fine and was very easy this time. thank you all for all the help. My CO trim was -11, Now at zero on the 2002 LeMans. Would  -11 cause the bike to poorly? Do some bikes run better on the plus side of zero? I'll ride it on saturday.

Yes, -11 could be problematic for the bike at idle and just "off idle." You know, that barely cracked throttle we use to pull away, make tight parking maneuvers, and cruise slowly stuck in traffic. All those situations that the V11 spit/cough/stumble/hiccup are so annoying.

Some owners have pushed their CO Fuel trim into positive settings, but it becomes rather arbitrary or "trial and error."

Glad you persevered and got it done! Looking forward to the ride report . . .

[pete roper]

The CO trim function is really pretty easy to understand. For every increase or decrease in the number the ECU adds, (From memory?) 100 microseconds of pulse width to the injection period. The thing is that it does this as a blanket increase across the map so at idle, when very little fuel is being delivered it makes a considerable difference but at wider throttle openings where fuel delivery is already high the effect is negligible and generally is only noticeable in increased or decreased fuel usage over a period of time.

If you are running a bike with lambda input you can screw about with the trim to your hearts content but the moment you disconnect the tool the trim will default to 'Zero' and it will trim to the lambda signal. If you turn the lambda input off in the map you can then adjust the CO trim and save it.

Now this isn't my area of expertise and I'm just repeating what I've been taught by the likes of Beetle, Paul and John so if I've got it wrong I'm sure they will descend on me like a pack of furies and tear me an extra arsehole!

[Skip]

10 hours ago, pete roper said:

The CO trim function is really pretty easy to understand. For every increase or decrease in the number the ECU adds, (From memory?) 100 microseconds of pulse width to the injection period. The thing is that it does this as a blanket increase across the map so at idle, when very little fuel is being delivered it makes a considerable difference but at wider throttle openings where fuel delivery is already high the effect is negligible and generally is only noticeable in increased or decreased fuel usage over a period of time.

If you are running a bike with lambda input you can screw about with the trim to your hearts content but the moment you disconnect the tool the trim will default to 'Zero' and it will trim to the lambda signal. If you turn the lambda input off in the map you can then adjust the CO trim and save it.

Now this isn't my area of expertise and I'm just repeating what I've been taught by the likes of Beetle, Paul and John so if I've got it wrong I'm sure they will descend on me like a pack of furies and tear me an extra arsehole!

Thanks Pete,  That's  interesting to know about the pulse timing related to CO trim. I was always curios as to how the trim affected engine performance.   Very Cool.

      SKIP

[red lion]

After adjusting the CO fuel trim from -10 to 0 I took the bike for a ride and there was no change. The bike runs good for the about  10 miles, then as it heats up to running temp it starts to miss, with two very very small backfires, It sounded like the left pipe. the bike runs poorly under light throttle, but runs strong under heavy throttle. Again the bike ran good before I changed the stock exhaust to mistrals with the baffles taken out.

[docc]

21 minutes ago, red lion said:

After adjusting the CO fuel trim from -10 to 0 I took the bike for a ride and there was no change. The bike runs good for the about  10 miles, then as it heats up to running temp it starts to miss, with two very very small backfires, It sounded like the left pipe. the bike runs poorly under light throttle, but runs strong under heavy throttle. Again the bike ran good before I changed the stock exhaust to mistrals with the baffles taken out.

Have you synchronized the throttle bodies and performed the rest of the basic tune-up?

[red lion]

Not yet. But I will give it a decent tune up, Do these bike need a new map when changing to open exhaust?

[docc]

29 minutes ago, red lion said:

Not yet. But I will give it a decent tune up, Do these bike need a new map when changing to open exhaust?

Mine didn't. But they are very sensitive that everything is set perfectly. Even if you end up running a new mp, everything needs to be set perfectly first anyway.

The "Titanium" map might be where you end up if you have to got that route (said to be richer across the entire range). Otherwise, the Meinolf Map is well spoken of.

[red lion]

Thanks again.  Do you have link's for those two maps. Is it hard to install a new map?

[MartyNZ]

53 minutes ago, red lion said:

Thanks again.  Do you have link's for those two maps. Is it hard to install a new map?

https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/21701-ecu-bin-maps/

[docc]

Someone else will have to talk you through the map installation. Not hard, but I haven't done it.

[PJPR01]

Highly recommend reading the Guzzidiag tutorial to get familiar with the functionality of Guzzidiag.

There are 3 programs: Guzzidiag (reads and resets parameters, sets CO trim, reads faults)

Reader - reads and saves your map (bin file) currently on the ECU, you should create a directory on your PC where you will save this bin file.  Name it Original with a date xxxx.bin, so you will remember what it is later on.

Writer - writes a new map (bin file) to your ECU - this is the Meinolf bin file, or if you have another one from another source.

You will need to download these 3 .exe files to a folder on your PC.

Once you read thru the Guzzidiag tutorial, and assuming all connects, you should make sure you save your existing map (bin file) to your PC.  Generally Windows works more reliably than Mac.

Once and ONLY once you have successfully saved your existing map to your PC AND verified you see it in the folder you have created on your PC, then you can close the Reader program.

Next, open the Writer program, and select the new map you will have either downloaded from Meinolf or other source.  Use the Writer program now to WRITE the new map (bin file) to your ECU.  The program will tell you if you have been successful writing the program.

Follow the rest of the tutorial, do the full tune up, and ride!

 

[audiomick]

What he said. I haven't done it, but I have read a real lot of what Bernd (author of the abovementioned programs) has written in the german forum.

One thing in addition to "make sure you have saved your original map before you do anything else. Really sure..." :

 

Bernd recommends having the (fully charged) bike battery on a smart charger when you are doing anything with Guzzidiag and particularly with the reader and writer, and use a power supply for the laptop you are using as well. The one thing you really, really do not want to happen is that a battery (bike or computer...) goes flat during the process. The result of that can easily be this:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brick_(electronics)

[PJPR01]

100%...excellent point to mention Audiomick!