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Posted

If reading correct, she was running fine before the only change was the Mistrals ?  The rev sensor coud work fine when cold, but act up when hot. Coud have correct readings when cold, was it between 550 700ohm, but bad readings when hot. If needed I can get the correct #'s tomorrow.  And as docc said TPS can be Ohm'nd. 

It will be sorted.

Cheers Tom.

  • Like 2
Posted

I'm setting the TPS and noticed that when I snap the throttle bodies and let them close, I set them at as close to 157MV as possible. But when I put pressure on the right throttle body with my hand the number would drop as much as 30MV. Should I set then by just snaping them closed or the reading I get when pressure is applied? I cleaned the throttle bodies as good as I possible, And they look clean.

  • Like 1
Posted

I hope someone has the answer to this. Finding the "fully and completely closed" throttle plate position has become a maddening event on my well-worn Sport. :blink:

30mV is as close as I can get, as well. Not perfect . . . <_<

Otherwise, it is a matter of: set it / ride it. Love it or change it. :race::luigi:

Posted

If I set it at the lower number, when there held closed, Will the bike run richer or leaner?

Posted
Just now, red lion said:

If I set it at the lower number, when there held closed, Will the bike run richer or leaner?

It is not as simple as richer versus leaner, but more where the throttle opening(s) are indexed to the mapping.

 

Posted

So I have them set now at 157 by snaping the closed. What would you do?

Posted
4 minutes ago, red lion said:

So I have them set now at 157 by snaping the closed. What would you do?

Finish the "Decent Tune-up" and ride it! :race:

[The throttle body balance (at "some" rpm) is well indicated after the canister change.]

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm almost done, The valves were very tight on the left side. One tight one loose on the right side. I hope to balance the throttle bodies in the next few days.

  • Like 1
Posted
9 minutes ago, red lion said:

I'm almost done, The valves were very tight on the left side. One tight one loose on the right side. I hope to balance the throttle bodies in the next few days.

Every one of these steps will make your V11 better and better.

Along with the throttle body synch, it is some kind of magic . . .  :luigi:  :race:  :drink:

Posted
3 hours ago, red lion said:

I'm setting the TPS and noticed that when I snap the throttle bodies and let them close, I set them at as close to 157MV as possible. But when I put pressure on the right throttle body with my hand the number would drop as much as 30MV. Should I set then by just snaping them closed or the reading I get when pressure is applied? 

Did you disconnect the link rod between the two throttles? The rod-end on the RH side just pops down and off.

Check to make sure that the idle-up cam under the RH throttle is not holding the valve open.

Then you can make sure that the RH stop screw is backed off enough to allow the throttle valve to close completely. A feeler gauge helps here, as it's tricky to see.

Then you can adjust the TPS to 157mV. Patience is needed as the voltage can change as you tighten the screws.

Then you can reconnect the link, set the idle speed, and cylinder synch. 

A lot of messing around before and after this critical adjustment, but it's worth it.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted

Just to add to Marty's post;

There are a few spots along the cable path from the throttle grip,locating bracket,LH TB,rod,RH TB,it's worthwhile to make sure everything is working smoothly and won't get hung up,especially the cable bracket & white adjustment knob,btdt.

As Docc says, a little feathering is required and time well spent.

:rasta:

  • Like 1

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