dashboard loose

[igor]

hi everyone

Today the dashboard of my V11 le mans got loose .

Watching how it's fixed it seems it's just 3 metal pieces going into 3 rubbers with a hole in it .

Is there a way to fix this and to be sure it wont happen again ?

Is it the rubbers that got old ?

Would love some advice how to fix this .

 

Also by getting loose it placed itself on the right side of the handlebar and somehow unscrew a bit the bolt of the brake line fluid, so fluid went out  . Now no front brake anymore . Is it easy to fix this ? I guess i have to put back brake fluid and purge the brakes , is it easy to do ?

Thanks a lot in advance

[audiomick]

7 hours ago, igor said:

Watching how it's fixed it seems it's just 3 metal pieces going into 3 rubbers with a hole in it .

That's about right. On mine (2002 V11 Le Mans), and I assume the V11s are all the same, the instruments are mounted with three screws that screw in to isolation blocks. You might know them as "silent blocks", i.e. a rubber block that has a threaded shaft on the back to mount it to the frame, and a threaded hole on the front to screw the mounting screw for the instruments in to. The purpose of this method of mounting is to isolate the instruments a bit from the vibrations.

What came loose on yours, the screw at the front, or the nut on the back?

7 hours ago, igor said:

Is there a way to fix this and to be sure it wont happen again ?

Is it the rubbers that got old ?

If the rubbers got too old, they might have broken. In that case, replace them and it will be good for a long while. The rubbers being old wont affect the screws. The threaded insert for the screw on the front is metal, and the threaded shaft on the back is also metal.

If the problem was that the nut on the back or the screw on the front came out, the solution is to check that they are tight occasionally. Maybe a bit of Loctite or something similar on the threads, but not the permanent sort.

7 hours ago, igor said:

...Now no front brake anymore . Is it easy to fix this ? I guess i have to put back brake fluid and purge the brakes , is it easy to do ?

Tighten up the hose again. Maybe renew the sealing washer on the banjo bolt. Top up the fluid, and bleed the system.

 

It is not that hard to do, but can be fiddly. Explaining it takes a while. There are lots of videos on Youtube about how to do it. The principle is the same for any vehicle.

However, if you have never done it, get someone to help you and show you how to do it, or take the bike in to a workshop and have them do it. It is not that hard when you know how, but it is your brakes. It wants to be done properly. I was fortunate to have been shown how to do it by a mate of mine who is a trained mechanic. I think trying to figure out how to do it by yourself without informed help is not such a good idea.

 

PS: in case you don't know the term, " bleed the brakes" means "get the air out of the system".

I checked deepl.com for a translation. The french is "purger les freins", and it offered the alternative translations "purge des freins" and "la purge des freins".

DeepL can't do flemish, but the dutch is "ontlucht de remmen", alternatively "de remmen ontluchten" or "de remmen te ontluchten"

[Tomchri]

Quick fix, sandpaper, rub both parts and glue it back together. Or order new ones from Stein Dinse, TLM.   Brake bolt sounds to me, must have been on the loose side.  I make a water lock on  a hose and stick it down in a jar with old brake fluid and connect it to the bleeder valve. Build up some pressure and open the bleeder valve. Not to hard. I always zip tie the brake handle over night to get all air out.

Cheers Tom.

[igor]

10 hours ago, audiomick said:

That's about right. On mine (2002 V11 Le Mans), and I assume the V11s are all the same, the instruments are mounted with three screws that screw in to isolation blocks. You might know them as "silent blocks", i.e. a rubber block that has a threaded shaft on the back to mount it to the frame, and a threaded hole on the front to screw the mounting screw for the instruments in to. The purpose of this method of mounting is to isolate the instruments a bit from the vibrations.

What came loose on yours, the screw at the front, or the nut on the back?

Hi thanks for your answer . I dont seem to see any fixation screws from the rubber to the dash board unless the metal rounded piece thats now on the dashboard was supposed to be in the rubber , and now it snapped off the rubber part and stay screwed to the dashboard . Would it be a solution to glue it back together with some silicone ? I'll take a picture in a few hours to show it more clearly .

For the brakes you're right i guess i'll go to a mechanic and ask him to show me .

 

thanks for your answer

[igor]

here are the picture seems like the previous owner already put some silicone .

found the part on motorcycle spare parts ( cheaper than on other sites )

Last question , do you think i should put some loctite on the bottom connection with the bolts ?

Thanks

 

 

Edited May 28, 2023 by igor
add info

[igor]

11 hours ago, Tomchri said:

Quick fix, sandpaper, rub both parts and glue it back together. Or order new ones from Stein Dinse, TLM.   Brake bolt sounds to me, must have been on the loose side.  I make a water lock on  a hose and stick it down in a jar with old brake fluid and connect it to the bleeder valve. Build up some pressure and open the bleeder valve. Not to hard. I always zip tie the brake handle over night to get all air out.

Cheers Tom.

thanks found the part on motorcycle spare parts ( cheaper than on other sites )

[audiomick]

3 hours ago, igor said:

found the part on motorcycle spare parts ( cheaper than on other sites )

Last question , do you think i should put some loctite on the bottom connection with the bolts ?

Good, just replace them (the rubber blocks). They'll then probably hold another twenty years. You're right in your assessment: the thread inserts in the front of the block have pulled out and are on the screws that hold the dashboard.

 

As far as Loctite goes, I wouldn't bother. Thinking about it, though, I believe mine has Nylock (or similar, i.e. self-locking) nuts on the back end of the isolation block. That makes sense, and is very easy to do if the nuts on there aren't self-locking.