Relay mounts

[Art]

I've found one posting that mentioned a problem with relay mounts, but I still have some questions. On my bike 2 of the relays are mounted to the frame, and they still bounce around. The other 3 slide back and forth while not being fixed in place. Much like putting them in a paint shaker. Is this normal?

I don't believe the quality of the relays has anything to do with failures. They are fragile mechanical devices with moving parts and very thin wires. When you open them up are they broken or burned?

I'll be gluing in some foam. Solid state relays would solve this issue but take up more space.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

 

[docc]

Your relay mounts have been mucked with. Plus, the "STA-RTR" relay is normally in the front. Might still be, since labeling the relay itself is bad procedure as soon as a relay gets moved.

 

[p6x]

I second Doc's statement.

My relays are all aligned along the same axis.

 

[MartyNZ]

The relay bases have dovetail grooves to link each base to the next. You should be able to hook the bases together to align them by sliding vertically. Then you need another mount bolt as shown by P6x.

[Art]

Thanks for showing how they should be mounted. Their also all the same 25A relays, but unlike fuses the bigger the better. There is nothing shown in the manual about ratings. The largest fuse is 20A for the lights, but they have all been changed to LEDs.

I will take good forum advice and carry spares.

 

[docc]

Lots of relay discussion dating way back to the beginning. The very first action my dealer provided for mySport, when new, was a larger Start relay (#1/front). The early V11 (1999-2001) uses the weaker (N.C.) contacts of that relay to supply all power to Relay#2 (headlights ETC). Later V11 send all of this through the Ignition Switch (another kind of potential problem). Under-rated relays have been known to fail in the V11, perhaps especially #5 (Fuel/Ignition) in the back of the stack; likely why the previous owner of Art's Sport has tagged these two relays.

"Best" relay currently available is probably the Pickers Components rated 25/30. The CIT 20/30 is probably fine, yet on the early Sport that 25 amp N.C. rating on the Pickers seems good insurance . . .

 

 

[80CX100]

Check,check & recheck,that the relays are snugged in tight to their mounts.

I noticed a few times when the seat was off,that my 2nd relay from the front appeared off kilter and not firmly pressed into place;I thought that I was hitting it with my arm or something when I was moving stuff around.

It turns out,there seems to be interference with one of the reinforcing splines molded into the bottom of my seat pan,it has to slide down into a narrow empty space beside the relays.

My ITI black face tach stopped working the other day and after reading horror stories about over charging and gauge failures,I was prepared for the worst;but when I removed the seat to verify the fuses,that same relay was a little loose and I could see the interference with the seat pan.

Connections all verified and the seat replaced very carefully,the tach  has come back to life and all seems good.

fwiw

[LowRyter]

dang relay sockets!  

[docc]

23 hours ago, LowRyter said:

dang relay sockets!  

Once again, @Kiwi_Roy's sage wisdom:

 

[docc]

23 hours ago, p6x said:

I second Doc's statement.

My relays are all aligned along the same axis.

 

What is this secret 20A/35A relay, @MartyNZ ?

[MartyNZ]

34 minutes ago, docc said:

What is this secret 20A/35A relay, @MartyNZ ?

You mean @p6x I think. However, it is a Song Chan 871-1C-C-R1 made in China. I don't have any experience with them, but they seem to be readily available.

871-1C-C-R1-U01-12VDC-Song-Chuan.pdf

[p6x]

1 hour ago, docc said:

What is this secret 20A/35A relay, @MartyNZ ?

This is the cure to my "no crank" issue that plagued my engine startups in 2021 and 2022.

Now each time I depress the starter button, the starter motor cranks!

@MartyNZ I simply followed your advice; one was to take apart the ignition switch and clean up the contacts, the second was to fully get rid of the problem by adding an extra relay.

[LowRyter]

SO, use dielectric grease on the contacts?  

[MartyNZ]

19 minutes ago, LowRyter said:

SO, use dielectric grease on the contacts?  

If you mean the ignition switch, then dielectric grease would work, but it is best used in static connections to keep water and oxygen out.

 I have had good results doing general cleaning/lubrication of switchgear using automotive electrical switch grease: Lubriplate DS-ES, but any white lithium grease is good.

https://www.lubriplate.com/Products/Grease/Multi-Purpose-Greases/DS-ES/DS-ES/DS-ES,-1-75-OZ-TUBE/

I use dielectric grease on all exposed electrical connections. It is particularly good on ignition coil connections, but I have heard that it is bad in vented relays, where it can mess with contact resistance when contact sparking happens.

[docc]

15 hours ago, MartyNZ said:

You mean @p6x I think. However, it is a Song Chan 871-1C-C-R1 made in China. I don't have any experience with them, but they seem to be readily available.

871-1C-C-R1-U01-12VDC-Song-Chuan.pdf 438.47 kB · 1 download

Ah, yes.

15 hours ago, p6x said:

This is the cure to my "no crank" issue that plagued my engine startups in 2021 and 2022.

Now each time I depress the starter button, the starter motor cranks!

@MartyNZ I simply followed your advice; one was to take apart the ignition switch and clean up the contacts, the second was to fully get rid of the problem by adding an extra relay.

That extra relay is so well mounted and aligned I did not realize it had been added!