Universal joint removal

[activpop]

I am stymied...I'm pretty good about figuring things out but not this time. I can't get enough of the uni caps pressed out to get a decent purchase on them to weasle them out the rest of the way. The cross is too small to allow much movement when pressing out a side. I thought about drilling through one cap and letting a punch travel through the grease shaft to tap one cap out, but that still might not give me enough play then I'm stuck with a cap with a hole in it. Installing the new ones should be easy because the cross can be set it in first with the caps removed. I just can't get these caps moved enough to remove all the way.

 

[docc]

I seem to recall @Pressureangle posted a solution for this . . .

[edit, yep, here is his post:

 

[activpop]

I've searched and searched, havent found it detailed. Talked about, yes, detailed , no.

[docc]

Edited my post, above, with a link . . .

[activpop]

Ironically that was going to be my next move. Seems a little barbaric. Even the shop manual ignores this. I tried drilling through and end cap. I think they were made on Krypton...no can do.

Thanks docc! You've given my weekend purpose.   I'll be glad when this is behind me. Somebody wasn't thinking ahead on this one.

[Pressureangle]

12 hours ago, activpop said:

Ironically that was going to be my next move. Seems a little barbaric. Even the shop manual ignores this. I tried drilling through and end cap. I think they were made on Krypton...no can do.

Thanks docc! You've given my weekend purpose.   I'll be glad when this is behind me. Somebody wasn't thinking ahead on this one.

It *is* barbaric. But what's that quote, 'When you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth.' - Sherlock Holmes

[audiomick]

I took out a uni joint on mine the other day. The project wasn't a success as a whole for a couple of reasons, but getting the joint out was.

I looked at a couple of videos on you tube for hints. There are about 750,927 videos there in various languages about changing uni joints.

 

Yes, the ones on the V11 are a bit tight. One tip I found from a bloke doing the joints on a Ural shaft was to get them as far out as you can, and then catch the end of the pin on the rim of the cap from the inside and hit it a couple of times more to get a bit more room.

As it turned out, I didn't have to do that. The pins are just long enough to get just enough room to get the cross out. What gets in the way are the rollers. They start moving around in the cap, and get jammed between the end of the pin and the rim of the cap. I had to get in there with a pointed object and push them out of the way. One got in to the hole in the end of the pin (the "grease gallery") to about half its length, and the sticking out end was quite in the way.

 

Anyway, I won. You just have to stick at it, look at what is happening and think about what your are doing, and don't give up.

[activpop]

I got one done yesterday, had to cut one joint side with a cutting wheel. Then the other half of it cut easily because nothing was in the way. The first cut needs to be precise otherwise you can nick the joint body. It certainly was no fun. 106°today, too hot to work in the shop. The other one needs to get done in the AM tomorrow before it heats up. Wish I had a Norwegian shop.

[Tomchri]

20 hours ago, activpop said:

I got one done yesterday, had to cut one joint side with a cutting wheel. Then the other half of it cut easily because nothing was in the way. The first cut needs to be precise otherwise you can nick the joint body. It certainly was no fun. 106°today, too hot to work in the shop. The other one needs to get done in the AM tomorrow before it heats up. Wish I had a Norwegian shop.

Bring the bike, have cold beer .

Cheers Tom.

[activpop]

Well I got them done. One cross was done the barbaric way with a 4" steel cutting wheel. The other i got out by pressing the cups side to side three or four times and lubing them so they had less resistance. I then drove the cups as far apart as I could with a hammer and punch. You always have a hammer on the bench, right? I still needed a tiny bit more room to slip the cross out. I was able to knock the needle bearings out of place with a small screwdriver and let them fall in the bottom of the cup. That provided me with some more space to press the cups further apart. Then the crosses came out. The rest was easy. I couldn't have done this without the press. Cutting them out was faster but needed precision cutting on the first cut.  Pressing, hitting and fiddling took longer. The press was needed for both methods. 

Now my next dillema. The grease zerks I got are still too big. Can't use those old ones because thread is too small for the new crosses. I have to find smaller ones, not sure if they are available., but I'll make something work. Don't want to go to plan B.  Don't even want to tell you what plan B is. 

[docc]

From @Pressureangle's post:

45 degree mini-Zerk

 

[Pressureangle]

54 minutes ago, activpop said:

 

Now my next dillema. The grease zircs I got are still too big. Can't use the old ones because thread is too small for the new crosses. I have to find smaller ones, not sure if they are available., but I'll make something work. Don't want to go to plan B.  Don't even want to tell you what plan B is. 

I think I can find the remaining 8 from the bag of 10 I had to buy...lol 
Let me know and I'll drop some in the mailbox.

[audiomick]

18 minutes ago, Pressureangle said:

I think I can find the remaining 8 from the bag of 10 I had to buy...

When you've found them, let me know what the thread on them is. I might be interested in a couple, or a very precise specification (e.g. DIN number...) so I can try and source them here.

I'm facing the same problem: I bought a uni-joint which would fit in, but the grease nipple on it is too big for the available space. The thread on the purchased uni-joint is bigger than that on the buggered one that I took out, so I can't use the old grease nipple.

[activpop]

58 minutes ago, Pressureangle said:

I think I can find the remaining 8 from the bag of 10 I had to buy...lol 
Let me know and I'll drop some in the mailbox.

Very kind offer, but I think I ordered the same ones as you...from fitting.space, right? They seem too big, and you can't use the old ones because they are smaller threaded holes in the original Unis. I got the ebay link off of your post from 2018 I think.

[docc]

39 minutes ago, activpop said:

Very kind offer, but I think I ordered the same ones as you...from fitting.space, right? They seem too big, and you can't use the old ones because they are smaller threaded holes in the original Unis. I got the ebay link off of your post from 2018 I think.

The ebay linked, reduced size, 45º Zerks fit my original Sport U-joints and the referenced Della Concordia replacements . . .

The 45º Zerk, provided with the replacement U-joint (shown center) is too large. Thread pitch is the same . . .