v11 issues, help!!!

[Guest seanc]

Hi All...

I picked up my v11 sport a couple of weeks ago. It had @ 1800 miles on it and now is up to @ 2100. It has been to the shop a couple of times and need some advice/ reality check...

First put it in for a strange issue, at 1 tick over 4k it was/ is doing strange things, hesitation in the engine, power surges. this seemed to me pretty consistant and would smooth out @ 4500rpm's. Also, when i would come to a stop (at a light) it would die (low idle?).

Explained the issues to the shop, they said it was running to lean or the tps was out of balance..

Ok, fattened it up and balanced the tps. But they said after @ 1/2hr of riding the bike, they could not repeat the problem..

After they did the work, at the last minute, I had them install a fbf airbox and the fbf tail section (looks REALLY GOOD). So, off I go!! I still notice the 4200rpm issue, but not as pronounced, it still dies at sop lights. Granted they did not fatten it up after the air box was installed.

BUT, on the way home, something else occurred. Becoming somewhat adept at front braking, while trying to keep the throttle open so it does not die, and using the rear brake now.. I was coming to a stop light, using the rear brake/ front brake/ throttle a bit open manuver. I got the bike to a stop and then the rear brake seemed to COMPLETELY lock up. At that point, of course, the bike died (took my hand off the throttle). i thought the bike/ engine had siezed up. Putting it in neutral to push it off the side of the road, nothing, the rear wheel was locked up, and the brake lever was not moving either. Rocking it back and forth to free something up, it finally decided to release and I was able to push the bike off to the side of the road.

Crossing my fingers, the engine started right up. But now the brake lever is @ 30degrees off (lower), and to use the rear brake you need to push the lever to @ 150 degrees to start to initiate brake contact.Not being a contortonist, I would have to remove my foot from the peg to use the rear brake.

And finally... they "fixed" an issue with the clutch.. Now it seems that I need to put A LOT of pressure on the clutch to move it from Neutral to first. Or, if I use the same pressure I used to the N light goes out, it clicks (like it shifted) and then pops back to N..

Thoughts/ comments/ suggestions??

Am I at the point of needing an Exorcist yet?

Thanks

sean

[Baldini]

Brake pistons seizing on? Clean up, check they move freely. Had it been standing a while before you bought it? Check there is plenty freeplay at the pedal linkage.

 

Do you mean lever is hard to pull or you have to pull it in a long way? Is it same all gears?

 

Sounds like you need someone who's good at it to sort the fueling to get it it pull thru revs.

 

It would be worth also checking valve clearances.

 

Some people have had tank vacuum problem, search under "tank suck", causing stalling ( ?).

 

Try search of this site for previous mention of these problems.

 

Good luck,KB

[Mike Stewart]

Seanc,

 

What year bike do you have?

 

For the dying problem at stops when hot, check your valve adjustment FIRST! I would go to the looser valve adjustment specs. of .008" intake and .010 exhaust. These are way looser than stock and will make your bike idle much stronger. Also after you adjust the valves, sync. your throttle bodys and then set your idle to spec.

 

Now for your surge condition, everytime you modify the intake or exhaust of the engine, you will need to have a new map for the ECU. There is a debate on which way to do this, but to me it is easiest accomplished by installing a Powercommander (PCIII).

 

OK, on your rear brake issue, there have been a few things that can cause your problem..On my 03 Rosso, my brake lever was binding on its pivot and caused the rear brake to drag. The rear brake lever should move freely. If this is your problem, simply remove the rear brake lever and sand/file down the width to allow ample clearence.

 

Good luck,

Mike

[Mike Stewart]

And finally... they "fixed" an issue with the clutch.. Now it seems that I need to put A LOT of pressure on the clutch to move it from Neutral to first. Or, if I use the same pressure I used to the N light goes out, it clicks (like it shifted) and then pops back to N..

Thoughts/ comments/ suggestions??

Am I at the point of needing an Exorcist yet?

Thanks

sean

Sometimes my bike will not go into gear and I have to put it into gear using the BMW way. With the clutch in, put slight downward pressure on the shifter lever to first gear while slowly letting out the clutch. The clunk will tell you when it falls into gear.

 

Mike

[Guest Brian Robson]

Also check that the gear lever is free to move...adjust the hex head at the bottom of the left frame plate ("pork chop").

[Steve G.]

Is your bike one of the older ones with the gearbox sleave jambing issue?

My rear brake seized on me after a spirited ride once. The brake puck had fallen out of it's correct location. Don't know why, but when I installed new EBC pucks, the jambing stopped, the brake groaning stopped, and the rear brake actually works, and the pucks have lasted 20,000kms, instead of 4,000kms for stock.

Ciao, Steve G.

[bento]

i still have the acursed rear break groan!!

[stormsedge]

There's a rear brake? Seriously, have you pulled off the rubber boot around the plunger on your rear master cylinder? I seem to remember a post some time back about some of them having water intrusion, which may be the cause of your symptoms. I think our friend Baldini is on with the "tank suck" for your idle problems, but it may be a clogging fuel filter as well. The surge is interesting to me, because mine was doing it too---right after I'd had it in the shop for a period for the gearbox fix (another story)---got it back, hadn't ridden it in quite a while and began experiencing exactly what you described. Funny as it may seem, I found I was stiff-arming it and transmitting every bump into the throttle and controls at speed. It was also quite windy during that period, so that added to the situation. After I had poked and prodded things a bit, deciding it probably wasn't the bike, I started checking what I was doing when I experienced the problem...it was me! So, I try to relax a bit, keep those elbows bent, etc. I also ordered a self-help book about the same time--"Sport Riding Techniques: How to...." by Nick Ienatsch. Reading it helped emphasize where I needed to develop better habits and there's a V11S pictured in it a few times as well...Todd, I think? In any event, does it have the surging symptoms at 4200 rpm in all gears, or only in high gear at +70mph? k

[Guest seanc]

clairifications:

The bike is an '01 v11 naked (green)

 

the 4200 rpm thing happens in all gears. Crusing speed most of the time around here is @ 40mph, which is one click over 4k on mine, as well as @ 50mph in 3rd. It might very well be an issue with me, not the bike. I will search and test a bit further on that.

 

So far I have not had the time to do any serious searching on the bike to address the issue. I should have a bit of time to poke around a bit today.

 

And also, the issue was present before going into the shop for the fattening up and is still present after the adjustment and added air box.

[bento]

that's one thing about the efi, when it's shut off....it's OFF!! very touchy, you'll learn around it, i did.

[Ray]

Hey Sean,

 

I just ran down through Worcester yesterday on 290. I go by every few weeks or so between NY and Maine. The only way I can see your brake pedal rotating to that degree is if the bolt securing the actuation rod to the pedal came off or loosened - or if the brake lines lost all compression. As for injection issues, I'm afraid I'm useless. Good luck.

 

I also have reacquired the rear brake groan, worse than ever after remounting my rear wheel after patching a tire. I worry it's an alignment issue.

 

Had THREE nails (thank you NY) in a fairly new rear tire - used tubeless automotive patches from Pep Boys. Held up for the 700 miles I rode it last week.

 

I also have not been able to shake the tank suck--but the bike only stalls in very hot weather, and hasn't done it since last summer. I will try mounting the anti-spill valve vertically when I can get to it. Also see the thread about insulating your fuel line - moving it away from one of the cylinders. Hot fuel line causes fuel vaporization, loss of pressure in line? This is still not a satisfactory explanation...

 

Readjust the shifter - I noticed that shifting got a lot more difficult after adjusting it downward after installing the evoluzione peg relo kit. Moved it back to original position and good to go.

[Guest Brian Robson]

Ray, I also had the groaning rear wheel issue. It has been cured by removing the wheel bearings which I think you will find are loose; and the reason is likely that the internal spacer is loose and allows the bearing centre race to loosen when the axle nut is tightened (over time). The wheel will then oscillate slightly and give you the groan which is not consistent but feels like a warped disc.

Put in a spacer (about 1mm thick with the same internal diameter) and new bearings and you may have a solution.

I also find that the brake pads are not wearing out abnormally.

There will be other options but this one has lasted for me.