No power with a brand-new battery

[docc]

27 minutes ago, p6x said:

The OP stated when he switches the ignition, the bike remains dead; no light on the dash, no fuel pump noise; with the run switch in off position, you still get the lights and the fuel pump.

Ah, true, that. That V11 was not running its fuel pump. 

It was the LeMans in gear that exhibited this "completely dead" behavior, with the sidestand down. No power to the Run switch.

[p6x]

18 hours ago, thelonewonderer said:

but when it comes to the electrical side, I'm an idiot.

The electrics on a V11 are very basic, and does not require a lot of knowledge. However, you absolutely need a tester to check your connections. Visual inspection can be deceiving. Get yourself a basic Multimeter, a suggest an analogical one, volts, continuity/resistance. 

[GuzziMoto]

Sounds like it could be a fuse or a relay (or the connections at the relays). It could also be the key switch itself, easy enough to check with a meter (assuming you have basic electrical knowledge). If you lack the electrical knowledge to test things like the ignition switch you may want to find a friend who does.

The V11 won't start if not in neutral unless the clutch is pulled in, and that also applies if it is in neutral but the neutral sensor isn't saying it is in neutral (the neutral light must be on).

[GuzziMoto]

On 10/25/2023 at 8:53 PM, thelonewonderer said:

Thank you, everyone.

I should have said this before: Pro Italia also installed the battery. I rode the bike home with no problems. A day or two later, the fuel pump went out. After replacing that was when the electrical problem arose. I'll remove the battery and re-install it. I've already changed the fuse. 

Who replaced the fuel pump? If I was replacing the fuel pump I would have disconnected the battery while replacing it. If the battery was disconnected to replace the fuel pump all the battery leads may not have been re-connected to the battery properly.

[thelonewonderer]

I figured out the issue. It was a simple grounding problem. 

Now, I have a new issue. The bike starts right up, but the idle is extremely high. I'm assuming it's getting too much air somewhere. I'm hoping to have some time to take a look at it tomorrow. I'm a little lost, as it idled fine before replacing the fuel pump.  The tach is also shot.

[thelonewonderer]

I suppose I should clean the injectors and throttle bodies to clean out the remnants of the old fuel as well. 

[LaGrasta]

52 minutes ago, thelonewonderer said:

I suppose I should clean the injectors and throttle bodies to clean out the remnants of the old fuel as well. 

I wouldn't worry about that now. That will burn up in no time. As for the fast idle, check your linkage, and the "choke" cable. it gets hung up sometimes, mine did.

[p6x]

4 hours ago, LaGrasta said:

As for the fast idle

When does it become a "fast idle"? mine is below 1000 rpm. Is it considered slow? Guzzi says 1200 rpm but I like my below 1000 idle.

[docc]

1 minute ago, p6x said:

When does it become a "fast idle"? mine is below 1000 rpm. Is it considered slow? Guzzi says 1200 rpm but I like my below 1000 idle.

My experience is that a V11 idle below 1000 rpm is a bad idea on several levels.  Better to pump oil and even out the power pulses. No Guzzi has been injured with a higher idle.

Idle lower at your peril . . .

[p6x]

2 minutes ago, docc said:

dle lower at your peril . . .

I don't spend that much time at idle though....

[Lucky Phil]

4 hours ago, p6x said:

When does it become a "fast idle"? mine is below 1000 rpm. Is it considered slow? Guzzi says 1200 rpm but I like my below 1000 idle.

That is misguided.

Phil

[Chuck]

Quote

Idle lower at your peril . . .

This. Slow idle damages the flywheel teeth, clutch splines, and transmission input hub because of the uneven firing order.

[GuzziMoto]

17 hours ago, thelonewonderer said:

I figured out the issue. It was a simple grounding problem. 

Now, I have a new issue. The bike starts right up, but the idle is extremely high. I'm assuming it's getting too much air somewhere. I'm hoping to have some time to take a look at it tomorrow. I'm a little lost, as it idled fine before replacing the fuel pump.  The tach is also shot.

Make sure the fast idle lever is not holding the throttle slightly open and that there is sufficient slack in the throttle cable when it is closed. What most would call a "choke" is really just a fast idle lever on the V11. It simply holds the throttle open slightly when you pull on the lever to activate. It is not really a choke. Also make sure the throttle bodies are firmly and securely seated in the intake rubbers. And make sure there are no cracks in the intake rubbers. Anything that lets additional air in will raise the idle.

Also, see if the rpms change at idle if you turn the handlebars all the way left and right. If they do, you don't have enough slack in the throttle cable.

And see this thread / image. 

 

[docc]

17 hours ago, thelonewonderer said:

I figured out the issue. It was a simple grounding problem. 

Now, I have a new issue. The bike starts right up, but the idle is extremely high. I'm assuming it's getting too much air somewhere. I'm hoping to have some time to take a look at it tomorrow. I'm a little lost, as it idled fine before replacing the fuel pump.  The tach is also shot.

Sorry I missed this post when I created a new topic for @leroysch's excellent reply:

[gstallons]

On 10/30/2023 at 3:39 PM, thelonewonderer said:

I figured out the issue. It was a simple grounding problem. 

Now, I have a new issue. The bike starts right up, but the idle is extremely high. I'm assuming it's getting too much air somewhere. I'm hoping to have some time to take a look at it tomorrow. I'm a little lost, as it idled fine before replacing the fuel pump.  The tach is also shot.

@thelonewonderer

Can you explain the first sentence a little better ? It will benefit the people that took time to help you .