LowRyter Posted February 21 Posted February 21 I'd appreciate some advice regarding the gearbox in my Greenie (2001). The problem I'm experiencing has been skipping upshifts and going to false neutral. It's like shifting from 3rd to 4th, but going past 4th into neutral before 5th. Originally it was occasional 4th-5th and now it's doing it fairly regularly whenever I upshift. Sometimes it gets notching trying to find true neutral as well. It seems to get worse the more I ride, less so when it's cold. So, first question is changing the fluid, I don't think it's overdue but its been awhile. I can't find straight 90wt anywhere. Picked up some 85W-140. Advice is appreciated, anything super fancy like Shockproof and the like and it will need to be special ordered. Next question is the linkage. I'd say there's about 1/2 inch slack from bottom to toe up (not counting engagement). Any advice regarding measurement, adjustments and illustrations would be great. That's as about as far as I can take this before contacting a pro. I've already played with the adjuster on the clutch lever with no affect. It also has a Lucky Phil extender on it. Oddly, I had a shifting problem a few years ago that was similar, I was about to do the same and it cured itself. I just attributed it to poor riding. Finally, I want to apologize for asking. I'm sure there is something archived. I confess, I've never had luck using the search function here and some of the pinned topics are a bit tedious to understand.
Lucky Phil Posted February 21 Posted February 21 Is the locknut on the gearbox cover adjuster still tight? Phil 1
docc Posted February 21 Posted February 21 26 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said: Is the locknut on the gearbox cover adjuster still tight? Phil
LowRyter Posted February 22 Author Posted February 22 Thanks, I'll check @Lucky Phil Yes, I did need the photo, double thanks @docc 1
docc Posted February 22 Posted February 22 Here is the thread where you posted this issue before, @LowRyter: 1
LowRyter Posted February 22 Author Posted February 22 Thanks for all the help. It seem to be pretty much a problem shifting into 4th gear. I did check if the nut was tight, it was. I cleaned the mechanism and lubed it. The bike rode the same. Then I changed the fluid. That greenish Shockproof came out. I replaced it with 85-140. My goodness, the tranny is much quieter, no more clunk getting in gear, more positive shifts, except for 4th. I just wonder if I damaged it using that old gear oil? It was noticeably better when I dropped it into first, and the other gears were crisper after riding a few blocks, except for 4th unless I babyed it. I read the other thread, I suppose the next step is take the cover off and look for that pin?
docc Posted February 22 Posted February 22 Next, I would adjust and make tight the entire external shift mechanism. Best done with the starter off. Make sure the shift lever does not hit anything on the full up and down strokes in every gear. That is best done with the rear wheel suspended in order to rock the wheel a bit to get it into each gear. 3
docc Posted February 23 Posted February 23 I mean, how many times can we kick something with so may connections up and down over time before the "kinetic chain" needs attention . . . I have seen V11 with this series of fasteners just rattled apart, simply needing a good fettling, tightening, and lubrication . . . 6
guzzler Posted February 23 Posted February 23 Yep, this happened to me early in my ownership! Sorting the linkages out stopped it completely! Cheers Guzzler 3
LowRyter Posted February 23 Author Posted February 23 OK, my bones get a little tired laying on the driveway. Given that, it's good to have a game plan rather than me spitballing it. So my next dumb question regarding the linkage. If I do need to adjust the linkage, since the bike seems to skip over the upshift, I would assume that I should reduce the angle or travel on the mechanism?
docc Posted February 23 Posted February 23 Just make sure it has not gotten "sloppy." Check the pinch bolt on the shaft of the gear box, the lock nuts indexing the Heim/Rose joints, and wobble at the lever pivot. The lever pivot bolt may benefit from shimming (mine has a couple of times). There is an inboard lock nut that keeps that pivot bolt from turning. Look at the relative angles of the parallelogram and adjust as necessary to get as close to get the gearbox arm and the shift extension arm parallel. The lever has more apparent travel between certain gears, so check that it is not fouling anything above or the Frame Side Plate (below) in each gear change, up and down. 2
Lucky Phil Posted February 23 Posted February 23 2 minutes ago, docc said: Just make sure it has not gotten "sloppy." Check the pinch bolt on the shaft of the gear box, the lock nuts indexing the Heim/Rose joints, and wobble at the lever pivot. The lever pivot bolt may benefit from shimming (mine has a couple of times). There is an inboard lock nut that keeps that pivot bolt from turning. Look at the relative angles of the parallelogram and adjust as necessary to get as close to get the gearbox arm and the shift extension arm parallel. The lever has more apparent travel between certain gears, so check that it is not fouling anything above or the Frame Side Plate (below) in each gear change, up and down. I don't believe "overshifting" has anything to do with the shift linkage docc although always worth looking at of course. More likely the stop adjuster has come loose or it has been fiddled with at some point and has been set on the edge of "overshifting" and as time and wear accumulate it ends up outside the acceptable window of operation. The answer is to remove the side plate and check the whole shift mechanism for faults and while in there replace all the springs and adjust the stop on the bench before it damages the hard to fix internal parts like the gear dogs and/or shifter sleeves. 2
LowRyter Posted February 23 Author Posted February 23 14 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said: I don't believe "overshifting" has anything to do with the shift linkage docc although always worth looking at of course. More likely the stop adjuster has come loose or it has been fiddled with at some point and has been set on the edge of "overshifting" and as time and wear accumulate it ends up outside the acceptable window of operation. The answer is to remove the side plate and check the whole shift mechanism for faults and while in there replace all the springs and adjust the stop on the bench before it damages the hard to fix internal parts like the gear dogs and/or shifter sleeves. frankly, that was my fear. Could you describe accessing the "stop adjuster"?
Lucky Phil Posted February 23 Posted February 23 13 minutes ago, LowRyter said: frankly, that was my fear. Could you describe accessing the "stop adjuster"? Phil 1
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