Alternate tire size?

[LaGrasta]

As most of my riding is freeway, I'm looking for higher mileage tires. I'm a huge fan of Kenda, such value. I purchased these and am now wondering if fitting these may not work. Even if they fit the rim proper, will they clear the fenders. Shall I give 'em a go, or swap for Kenda KM1 models?

https://powersports.kendatire.com/en-us/find-a-tire/

 

 

[LowRyter]

I noticed that 170 size tires have just about dried up.  You guys seem to like 160 on the red frames?

[docc]

1 hour ago, LowRyter said:

I noticed that 170 size tires have just about dried up.  You guys seem to like 160 on the red frames?

I certainly do: 160/60. 
Not sure about the 160/70 on the short frame Sports. Pretty sure I've never heard of 130 on the front of a V11. Plus I'm really not convinced a bigger tire will automatically provide more longevity. 
 

(Just a reminder that all LongFrame V11, 2002-on, have a 5.5" rear rim that were delivered with a 180 while many find a 170 nicely suited to the larger rim.)

[audiomick]

5 hours ago, docc said:

 I'm really not convinced a bigger tire will automatically provide more longevity. 

Neither am I. As far as I know, the longevity is in a direct relationship to the compound, not the tyre size.

[guzzler]

Ha ha 

I'm just about to replace mine this week hopefully.

The current Pirelli Angel GT 2's have 18,500 kays on them and still handle ok.....

My last ride to the office was cold and very very wet and still no slips slides etc and my ride home on the fun twisty bits were also wet and still no moments but I reckon they'll go downhill quickly from here!

Bloody phenomenal really and will look to put another pair of these on!

Cheers

Ps I also run a 160/60 on the rear

 

 

[Lucky Phil]

3 hours ago, audiomick said:

Neither am I. As far as I know, the longevity is in a direct relationship to the compound, not the tyre size.

The most complex and contentious subject in the automotive and motorcycle world, tyres. In theory a wider tyre on the same size rim should have a flatter profile so put more rubber on the ground even upright so all other other things being equal less weight/square CM you should get improved tyre life but it's obviously far more complex than that.

One thing I learned a long long time ago was the thing that truly kills rear tyre mileage is stop start traffic conditions. Every time you accelerate the mass of the bike from a standing start it multiplies the wear exponentially compared to steady state riding. And I don't mean hard launches either just the normal bike riders urban riding from a stop to 60kph or so. Add riding on our type of not so smooth B roads on the weekends in our hotter weather and rear tyre life is pretty poor. Cool European conditions, smooth B roads and Autobahn cruising makes for decent tyre life. 

 

Phil  

[audiomick]

1 hour ago, Lucky Phil said:

Autobahn cruising makes for decent tyre life.

I beg to differ.

If you are constrained to the consevative 110 km/h that is allowed in Australia, yes. If you are really on an Autobahn, it depends entirely on how fast you are prepared to ride.

My normal cruising speed on the GTR 1000 was about 150 - 160 km/h (average, mind you. Peak around 180 km/h. More than that, and I start getting nervous on public roads...). That, particularly on that heavy bike, is not exactly conducive to long tyre life, front or rear.

 

And smooth B roads are only the norm in southern / western Germany. Here in the region around Leipzig, and in fact all of what was the DDR prior to 1989, you get everything from freshly made roads through "patches on the patches" to cobblestones. Makes a trip across country through unknown territory quite interesting.

EDIT: having said that, even around Heilbronn, where I lived previous to Leipzig, there were some pretty shitful roads. That is in Baden-Württemberg, which is a pretty well-off state, but some of the back roads are still pretty ordinary.

[Rox Lemans]

When it comes to alternate tire sizes, there's some leeway with the rear. Better handling, go 170. I guess you can go 160? I know 170 works really well. 200 is the max. I tried it. I didn't like it. You'd thin more of a contact patch would be better, but too much sidewall can get a little wabbly when pushing it. At least it did for me.

As for the front, I wouldn't really deviate. You're certainly gonna feel it.  I would think less sidewall would be better.  As for Kenda.. Why? If it's budget, check out the Dunlop GPR300. I slapped them on my Scura because I had to register 4 motorcycles at the same time, so it was budget... And they're pretty friggin good. I've heard people getting 5-6k out of them, which isn't that bad. Not great, but not bad. And they don't get squirrelly. Even on hot desert asphalt. 

 

https://www.cyclegear.com/tires/dunlop-sportmax-gpr300-tires?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw3NyxBhBmEiwAyofDYXXG43QbbctgWl8zWOF9B2R5dT6091ZXcm7It6JaEIW3GGBMQMxenxoCOxMQAvD_BwE

[guzzler]

The Greenie's booked in for a new set of shoes on Friday!

Went with another pair of Angel GT 2's as this set has seen it all (apart from snow and Ice) in the 18K and never once did they misbehave.

This also includes 10k of usage before the suspension was sorted and serviced so I'm bloody impressed.

Cheers

Ps can't wait!

[Joe]

Just installed Michelin Road 6’s 👍🏼, in stock short frame sizes 170/60ZR17 & 120/70ZR17 

[Lucky Phil]

11 hours ago, audiomick said:

I beg to differ.

If you are constrained to the consevative 110 km/h that is allowed in Australia, yes. If you are really on an Autobahn, it depends entirely on how fast you are prepared to ride.

My normal cruising speed on the GTR 1000 was about 150 - 160 km/h (average, mind you. Peak around 180 km/h. More than that, and I start getting nervous on public roads...). That, particularly on that heavy bike, is not exactly conducive to long tyre life, front or rear.

 

And smooth B roads are only the norm in southern / western Germany. Here in the region around Leipzig, and in fact all of what was the DDR prior to 1989, you get everything from freshly made roads through "patches on the patches" to cobblestones. Makes a trip across country through unknown territory quite interesting.

EDIT: having said that, even around Heilbronn, where I lived previous to Leipzig, there were some pretty shitful roads. That is in Baden-Württemberg, which is a pretty well-off state, but some of the back roads are still pretty ordinary.

Well my 40,000klms riding experience around Germany was 2 up on K100rs's fully loaded with panniers, tank bad and rear rack. Yes my Autobahn speeds were usually around the 120-140 mark. The rear tyres on both trips easily lasted without any thought of needing replacement and I was still riding on them at home when the bikes arrived back in Aus. Rear was only a 130 x 18 from memory as well in those good old days

 

Phil

[GuzziMoto]

23 hours ago, LaGrasta said:

As most of my riding is freeway, I'm looking for higher mileage tires. I'm a huge fan of Kenda, such value. I purchased these and am now wondering if fitting these may not work. Even if they fit the rim proper, will they clear the fenders. Shall I give 'em a go, or swap for Kenda KM1 models?

https://powersports.kendatire.com/en-us/find-a-tire/

 

 

Are you sure those tires are radial tires? Pretty sure they aren't. Kenda does make a radial tire, the KM1. And it does come in the right sizes for a V11 Sport. Neither of those tires are the right size for a V11 Sport. And not being radials will probably mean less miles of use and not sure how they would handle on a bike made for radial tires.

[audiomick]

56 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:

...The rear tyres on both trips easily lasted...

Yeah, that's not so much the problem, although they do get a bit flat in the middle. It's more the front tyres. Not so much that the profile dissapears, but that you (can) get very uneven wear happening. In particular, what is known as "Sägezahnbildung" in German, i.e. "saw-tooth developement" more or less. That thing where the tread blocks wear more on the leading edges, and you get steps developing from one to the next.

I've had front tyres that still had enough profile to be legal, but were really not good for the handling on the bike.

Tyre pressure is critical. Too little pressure accelerates the process dramatically.

[LaGrasta]

The reason I was considering these sizes, is because they didn't come in the OEM size. I didn't want sport bike tires because most of my riding is straight freeway. I wanted this particular model because they are longer lasting, due to better center compound. I'm sold on Kenda, many good experiences with them, both with street and dirt, they represent great value. 

I may just go with their sport bike tire model, KM1. They are available in the correct size.

[LaGrasta]

Hey guys, since I removed the rear wheel, I also removed the jack-shaft for proper lubing, successfully completed. To do so, I removed the swing arm pivot dowels. What is the realignment process, I cannot find it in the factory manual.