El Paso, TX to Anchorage, AK

[Pressureangle]

Though this trip is on my '04 BMW GSA, I thought I'd post any updates here, and if anyone's along the way- particularly in the US- I have a pretty lazy schedule until Bozeman, MT.

I'll be meeting friends in Bozeman July 4th, and leaving EP something like 5 days before. I plan to go through Taos, NM to the https://cumbrestoltec.com/ steam excursion, wander up to Moab- where I'll spend at least a whole day, or 2 if it suits. Then to West Yellowstone, and into Yellowstone NP with friends for day before heading to Vancouver. We'll up the coast-ish, then return through the Mountain route. After the return to Bozeman, I have to decide whether to ride East to Michigan and Ohio before breaking off (they're coming from Maine) and then whether back to EP or home to Florida. Decisions, decisions... Camping at all opportunities minus bear exposure. I may post up some of the prep, gear etc. since I have to leave EP in +100*F and Alaska may be near freezing. 

[activpop]

If you're around Moab and route works out, the roads and views around Capitol Reef NP are amazing. If Fruita is along the way, stop in for a pie. But you cant go wrong almost anywhere in Southern Utah.

[Pressureangle]

2 hours ago, activpop said:

If you're around Moab and route works out, the roads and views around Capitol Reef NP are amazing. If Fruita is along the way, stop in for a pie. But you cant go wrong almost anywhere in Southern Utah.

Hm. I could go through 4 corners to CRNP, then Moab. It's a plan.

[activpop]

15 hours ago, Pressureangle said:

Hm. I could go through 4 corners to CRNP, then Moab. It's a plan.

Get to Fruita early, those pies go fast. 

[PJPR01]

A pity you are not leaving a week earlier...the Moto Guzzi National Rally is in John Day Oregon the last weekend of June...

We'll head back thru Idaho, Montana, Wyoming on the way back as well...if you haven't already considered it on your way to Vancouver...try running Lolo Pass from Montana thru idaho on the way west!

Sounds like a super fun trip ahead!

[Pressureangle]

1 hour ago, PJPR01 said:

A pity you are not leaving a week earlier...the Moto Guzzi National Rally is in John Day Oregon the last weekend of June...

We'll head back thru Idaho, Montana, Wyoming on the way back as well...if you haven't already considered it on your way to Vancouver...try running Lolo Pass from Montana thru idaho on the way west!

Sounds like a super fun trip ahead!

I looked at that, but the schedule isn't mine. Lolo Pass... Hwy 12. Listed

[p6x]

Just back after making some stops for the Moto Guzzi Grand Tour of Texas.

I like your plan, as I have penciled an excursion to Alaska myself. On the Quota though, and not on a Le Mans. You have not specified a timetable, or what would be the intended duration of the trip. I suspect about 15 to 21 days?

I am sure you already know that, but just in case, Alaska.org helps you with planning your trip. I have been to Alaska in 2022 to see the Northern Lights in March and I thought that riding a motorcycle there would be very challenging. Obviously, July should not have any snow. But I made some notes that cell phone coverage outside the cities is not consistent... some of the roads I took, were with very little traffic. So should you have a breakdown, keep that in mind.

Wildlife. Well, in March, no bear of any kind. I had a friend from Anchorage who told me he would never go "bush" without a firearm of some sort and bear spray. The firearm would be a last resort, but you know as well as I do, if you walk upon a sow and her cubs, you will face immediate retribution. I had the opportunity to see a female and her cubs in Yellowstone park, but the rangers were there to prevent any overly daring selfie from the tourists. She, the bear, did not seem to be fazed by the attention and the traffic jam her and the cubs had caused. She did not seem belligerent at all, although the rangers, each had their bear spray in hand.

But that was Yellowstone. I do believe Alaska is a different matter, where bears do not encounter human beings on a daily basis.

I think you may want to consider renting a satellite phone if you are going to get off the beaten path in Alaska. They are not expensive to rent (did not use to be) as long as you don't call. I have not checked on the current rates since the late 2000. But in case of a breakdown or an accident, you will be happy to be able to at least call someone.

 

"

[Pressureangle]

To be sure, I'm not riding the 'Sport. I'm riding my '04 BMW GSA Adventure. With new tires, a new driveshaft, a new rear drive main bearing, new brake pads, new oil, new shock absorbers... 

I don't expect to use the phone for anything other than texting once we leave the US. I have a Garmin Montana 600 with new battery and learning Garmin Basecamp to have up and return routes mapped out without requiring cell service, and on a device I can leave up in the rain. My trusty old Aerostich is a size small, so I found a thrice-worn Klim Badlands set that's actually a bit big, but I *really* hate being cold so it will accomodate layers and the electric jacket underneath. New Shoei Hornet X2 ADV helmet- which BTW is better in the wind with the visor than my old GT Air... Can't carry a pistola into Canada so it'll be a pawnshop K-Bar and bear spray. We are camping whenever we can, but there won't be no jankey remote wildlife adventures. We'll carry no food beyond gas station snacks and ditch anything before camping. I might carry in the US and hand the hardware off to a friend in Port Angeles, WA before crossing. Haven't decided. I've assembled a trauma kit, I've meant to carry one travelling by auto for a long time but this makes it do-or-don't. A couple band-aids, iodine, and tylenol should take care of anything less. Mosquito nets for over helmet stops at construction, etc. I've never been a road camper on a long trip, so I'm packing minimally but thoroughly. <shrug> 

[DucatiGuzziIndian]

Absolutely recommend Lolo Pass. Especially between Lewiston and Missoula.

Awesome piece of road. Did it on my Ducati StreetFighter a few years ago at speed. One of the best rides of my life.

[Gmc28]

On 5/27/2024 at 1:37 PM, Pressureangle said:

To be sure, I'm not riding the 'Sport. I'm riding my '04 BMW GSA Adventure. With new tires, a new driveshaft, a new rear drive main bearing, new brake pads, new oil, new shock absorbers... 

I don't expect to use the phone for anything other than texting once we leave the US. I have a Garmin Montana 600 with new battery and learning Garmin Basecamp to have up and return routes mapped out without requiring cell service, and on a device I can leave up in the rain. My trusty old Aerostich is a size small, so I found a thrice-worn Klim Badlands set that's actually a bit big, but I *really* hate being cold so it will accomodate layers and the electric jacket underneath. New Shoei Hornet X2 ADV helmet- which BTW is better in the wind with the visor than my old GT Air... Can't carry a pistola into Canada so it'll be a pawnshop K-Bar and bear spray. We are camping whenever we can, but there won't be no jankey remote wildlife adventures. We'll carry no food beyond gas station snacks and ditch anything before camping. I might carry in the US and hand the hardware off to a friend in Port Angeles, WA before crossing. Haven't decided. I've assembled a trauma kit, I've meant to carry one travelling by auto for a long time but this makes it do-or-don't. A couple band-aids, iodine, and tylenol should take care of anything less. Mosquito nets for over helmet stops at construction, etc. I've never been a road camper on a long trip, so I'm packing minimally but thoroughly. <shrug> 

For what it’s worth, i ride alaska every year, except during covid.  Love it.  Mosquitoes are a bigger problem than bears.  Not joking.  DEET, and/or one of those head net deals can important, though why they are thick a times and at other times not an issue at all, is not something i understand.  Wind/breeze helps a lot, so being out of the trees when you camp CAN be helpful, depending on the situation.

bear talk for alaska is like a motor oil thread… so with that in mind I’ll just note my own personal input:  bear spray - yes.  Gun, no, for the reason u noted, which is Canadian customs & law.  And northern canada is where u want to be… fantastic.  Be cautious with food, but an old friend who still lives up there and camps a lot each year always just ties his food in an REI type waterproof bag, attaches a line through it, and slings it up over a tree branch so its suspended in the air, away from tent.  Best idea? I don’t know, it’s just what i’ve always done, and has worked fine for me.   I’ll see bears every time i ride up there, but they’re always trying to run away from me, and I’m always trying to cautiously gape at them as sightseer.  I just assure i have an exit path on the bike, and all’s well, with the deal being me just trying to be smooth enough to not scare them away.   Being on foot and getting between mom and cubs, that extraordianary circumstance of note, well thats something to just avoid, like riding through thunderstorms (mostly avoidable if we’re careful, but not always when we’re enjoying the scenery and not paying attention  :->)

Note that a lot of the northern canada campgrounds are really great.  I avoid US campgrounds, as i don’t want the noise of other people, or RV’s, or just other people at all (I’m a Scrooge that way).  But those northern canada campgrounds are often deserted, yet well kept.  And they’ll have the metal/concrete storage containers, which are basically garbage containers that seal, so you can leave food there while you camp (on the honor system, if others are around).  Bear proof.  And if the food is in that waterproof/sealed bag, I’ll even use the back of a fully enclosed garbage container (in the metal enclosure, not actually in the garbage bin) to stow the food at a campground that doesn’t have the bear container dealio’s. Sounds gross, but if that sealed garbage area isn’t filthy/gross and your food is in the sealed sack, it’s an easy stowage place.  Judge that as you choose…

and you can map-search for those campgrounds, since they are identifiable places on a map, versus just hoping to find something like a US forest service land access road that might lead you to a legal and quiet place to camp down here.  

For the satellite device, lots of info/options as u know, but the inReach or similar devices work really great now, and are cheap to buy and cheap to use for text, and when necessary to make a call.  I haven’t used the call feature, but the text feature is used by some of my friends in AK quite regularly.  Monthly charges aren’t that bad, with choice for either year round (cheaper monthly) or just seasonal (practical, but higher monthly charge), and usually includes lots of texts in the package.  I have my old inReach i pack along, but friends have newer devices that apparently are simpler to use, pair to your smartphone via an app which makes it all work pretty easy. 

With a GSA you’ll not have any issues with fuel, but I’d generally not pass up the chance to top off and stretch your legs even when u think u may not need to. 

Peel off to visit Atlin if you can, up sort-of near Carcross, and the top of the route to Skagway.  It’s one way in/out for Atlin, but only about an hour (from memory…. Double check that) each way, and a fun place to spend the night.  Pretty, and interesting history.  Couple of hotels on the lake there which are not “bush”, and probably overpriced, but nice break between camping nights. 

Route down to Skagway, White pass, is fantastic.  Top 10 type of road.  In fact, if i was designing the route, 100% that I’d visit Atlin, then go back up to the “main road” and then shoot down White pass to Skagway (lots and lots of tourists, but still neat to see), then take the fairly short but very enjoyable ferry ride over to Haines, then ride back up to Haines Junction from there to continue the journey into AK.   Probably spend the night in Haines, which is less crowded than skagway, but fewer hotels at Haines, so not always feasible.  (I lived there for a short while a long, long time ago).  The hotel halsingland is worn out and not very well maintained, and not cheap, but it’s a great piece of history with great views, and an interesting/likeable owner.  The ride back up to Haines junction is a true hidden gem of a ride.  Climbs in elevation, so be ready for possibly cold windy condition, but in june probably all fine.

Discovery Yukon lodgings up north in the Kluane area is where I’ve stopped many times.  Little cabins on a grass airstrip, with a bunch of old WW2 stuff laying around.  You can get a home cooked meal there and some mediocre Canadian wine, if you arrange it in advance.  I think you can camp there as well, in their nice grassy areas, for a fee.   Note that all these places, and the alaska ferry, are usually pretty full this time of year, so arranging things in advance is pretty important. 

Anyway, I’ve carried on too long… didn’t mean to ramble.  If any of that is of interest, i may be able to fill in more detail where desired. 

[gstallons]

My Godfather took a trip to Alaska is a camera bug that loves to waste film on a trip . Not this time , every turn , crest , horizon , EVERY picture was the most beautiful scene I had ever seen until I looked at the next pic.  I can't remember the farthest point north but he took a picture there proving his quest and conquest was finished . He then returned taking pics just as beautiful of his return  to Barlow .  If at all possible , I would like to follow this voyage and see these sights. 

 

[Pressureangle]

27 minutes ago, gstallons said:

My Godfather took a trip to Alaska is a camera bug that loves to waste film on a trip . Not this time , every turn , crest , horizon , EVERY picture was the most beautiful scene I had ever seen until I looked at the next pic.  I can't remember the farthest point north but he took a picture there proving his quest and conquest was finished . He then returned taking pics just as beautiful of his return  to Barlow .  If at all possible , I would like to follow this voyage and see these sights. 

 

I'm going to have to figure out where to post photos etc. I don't know how well documented this trip will be, it's a 'ride' not a destination. Anchorage is the idea for the turn-around, but a lot depends on mileage and time. I do have a camera on the Sena talky, if I can learn how to use it...of course there will be pics when we stop. I suppose I can simply make a shared folder in Google photos and do the narrative here.

[Gmc28]

15 hours ago, Pressureangle said:

I'm going to have to figure out where to post photos etc. I don't know how well documented this trip will be, it's a 'ride' not a destination. Anchorage is the idea for the turn-around, but a lot depends on mileage and time. I do have a camera on the Sena talky, if I can learn how to use it...of course there will be pics when we stop. I suppose I can simply make a shared folder in Google photos and do the narrative here.

I have one of the Sena intercomm’s with camera…. Maybe the Evo 10x or something like that?  Takes some getting used to, and it’s got its challenges, but the biggest one is that the camera really drains the battery.  Without pics, it’ll go 2 whole days or more of intercom use, but with a handful of still pics it won’t even make it one full day.  YMMV

For myself, I’ve tried a lot of different options over the years for camera’s and riding.  My current favorite is an old waterproof Nikon point-and-shoot that i had shelved years ago, because the iPhones are now so good i couldnt see packing around a point-and-shoot any more.  But being a fully waterproof unit, with “hard buttons” rather than touch sensitive buttons like on an iphone, i put it on a leash around my neck on outside of my riding jacket, and its pretty easy with gloves on to turn it on and shoot a pic.   Best answer is the GoPro, but I don’t like all that bulk hanging off my helmet, and am honestly too impatient to fiddle with the process.  

[Pressureangle]

7 minutes ago, Gmc28 said:

I have one of the Sena intercomm’s with camera…. Maybe the Evo 10x or something like that?  Takes some getting used to, and it’s got its challenges, but the biggest one is that the camera really drains the battery.  Without pics, it’ll go 2 whole days or more of intercom use, but with a handful of still pics it won’t even make it one full day.  YMMV

For myself, I’ve tried a lot of different options over the years for camera’s and riding.  My current favorite is an old waterproof Nikon point-and-shoot that i had shelved years ago, because the iPhones are now so good i couldnt see packing around a point-and-shoot any more.  But being a fully waterproof unit, with “hard buttons” rather than touch sensitive buttons like on an iphone, i put it on a leash around my neck on outside of my riding jacket, and its pretty easy with gloves on to turn it on and shoot a pic.   Best answer is the GoPro, but I don’t like all that bulk hanging off my helmet, and am honestly too impatient to fiddle with the process.  

The Sena is used, PO says it works while plugged in, and I have a pretty big battery pack to carry along. We'll see, I just don't have the time to install something bigger and better.

[Gmc28]

1 minute ago, Pressureangle said:

The Sena is used, PO says it works while plugged in, and I have a pretty big battery pack to carry along. We'll see, I just don't have the time to install something bigger and better.

Aha, that should do the trick.  Guess I should have thought of that.  I would recommend playing with it to get used to it.  On mine there’s a delay in when you push the trigger and then the sound of the shutter click.  Probably an artifact of the sound setup, not an actual delay, but not sure.  And where to aim it… shift it so it’s pointing a bit higher or lower, and that sort of thing, based on where your helmet is pointed.  Gotta shoot a couple shots, then connect with the iphone app to see the pic, which can be a bit of a process.  Can also pull the data card out but thats not usually faster.  Once figured out, it works pretty well.  

I have Nolan helmet(s), and the style i have isn’t ideal for the sena cam because i have to mount it further back, so pretty much always have the right side of the pic showing my helmet.