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BAD STUMBLE OFF IDLE UNDER LOAD


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3 hours ago, gstallons said:

... If all of this is done perfectly get w/someone about "remapping" your pcm....

But only when everything else is definitely sorted. There is no point dicking around with the map if a sensor is not working, or something "simple" is mechanically not working as it should. :oldgit:

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1 hour ago, thumper said:

This started happening about 4 years ago just like a switch had been flipped.

1) Put a new injector assembly from ebay and a new timing chain tensioner runs the same.

2) Put a new TPS runs the same.

3) Did a full tune up after each change runs the same.

4) fresh fuel new fuel filter and all new relays and plugs runs the same.

I will keep tinkering let you guys know if I find anything just thought someone else may have had the same situation.

 

Please do not tinker , make deliberate  decisions and deliberate moves . Did you check the secondary ignition system to see if it is good ?

You say you installed a NEW TPS ? I assume you adjusted it properly ? A new injector assembly. What did this  consist of ?

This is the most delicate bike you will ever own . We all want you happy.

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2 hours ago, p6x said:

With electronics, there is something called "infancy failure".

Please explain "infancy failure" ? Like a new part can fail ?

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42 minutes ago, gstallons said:

 Like a new part can fail ?

That'd be it. Never exclude the possibility that a new part, particularly electronics, might be broken out of the box. It is not all that common, but it can happen. :huh2:

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The old help me fix this with "drip feed" information thread. Bean here many times. I guess we'll find out in 2 pages time it's got a 2 into one exhaust, pod air filters and high comp pistons.

Phil

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Hey guys I have been here fore 20 years just looking fore a little help.

Dont need or want to be picked apart phil keep your sarcasm to your self PLEASE.

 

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No , don't take anyone's input as sarcasm . EVERYONE on this forum wants to help you and wants your bike to run perfect .  We just need all work history to give you the best advice and to use the least amount of parts needed .

 W/that being said , you disconnect the CHT sensor AKA oil temp sensor and it runs better . T or F ? If you have a DVOM disconnect the plug and check the resistance at room temp and let us know . I will check one of mine and see what I read on mine . BTW , the red frame and black frame have this sensor wired to pins 4 & 22 so it will not matter. I know pin 22 is violet and I am not sure about colors of pin # 4.

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2 hours ago, audiomick said:

But only when everything else is definitely sorted. There is no point dicking around with the map if a sensor is not working, or something "simple" is mechanically not working as it should. :oldgit:

I should have included that as a good known "understood" e.g.the throttle bodies hanging out of the boots.

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26 minutes ago, gstallons said:

I should have included that as a good known "understood" e.g.the throttle bodies hanging out of the boots.

Interesting, I have had seemingly minor intake, and also exhaust, leaks wreak havoc on mySport's running quality . . .

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4 hours ago, gstallons said:

Please explain "infancy failure" ? Like a new part can fail ?

Yes, that seems very strange. Infancy failure is anything which, after a very short period of time working, just fails, or immediately after being started.

I have an easy example. I replaced my turn signal incandescent bulbs with led ones. Which implies replacing the flasher with one that works with LED lamps. I did, tested it, worked.

A few days after, no more turn indicators. Just like that.

I got it replaced with the same one under warranty. Same brand, same specs. Still works today.

I learned about infancy failure when working for ExxonMobil in an oilfield with non-eruptive oil wells. Those wells need to be pumped to produce oil. While everyone has seen a horse head pump once in his/her lifetime, there are other pumping systems. Those pumps are lowered into the well, and pump the effluent directly from down hole. The output is a lot higher than what a horse head pump can manage, it is continuous pumping.

These pumps have a limited life span, affected by many factors. Also, during the life of the well, they may need to be replaced because some conditions have changed. To install a down hole pump, you need a work over rig. It is expensive to extract the existing completion, and to run the next one. As soon as the pump has been installed, the wellhead connected, the pump is started and there is some test carried for a few hours. After that, the rig is moved to the next well.

Not long after the rig has moved, something within the pump fails. The pump was tested prior to being lowered in the hole, but this kind of failures, named "infancy failures" are unpredictable.

They are factored in when a field has to be installed, at planning time. Some money is put aside for this kind of repeat intervention.

But even if it is built up in the budget, you always get a good rimming by the representative of the oil company for having early equipment failures on "HIS" watch!!! Sometimes, they refuse to pay for the equipment you installed!

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This one job we were on , we were installing "nuclear powerplant quality" proximity switched and 1/2 of them would not work "straight out of the box".  Must be the ones they used at The Springfield Nuclear Power Plant 

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1 hour ago, gstallons said:

This one job we were on , we were installing "nuclear powerplant quality" proximity switched and 1/2 of them would not work "straight out of the box".  Must be the ones they used at The Springfield Nuclear Power Plant 

You may have gotten a bad batch. That happens more often now, that nothing produced is systematically tested. I have read somewhere, that it is less expensive to replace a few failed equipment, than to budget for testing. Actually, testing is expensive in terms of resources.

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