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The biggest consideration with galling, as opposed to corrosion and electrolysis, is differential of hardness. For reasons only seasoned metallurgists understand- maybe- materials close in hardness tend to gall, whereas a hard and soft pair tend not to. Whether the pair is hard or soft only affects how much pressure is needed to gall, not so much that it will happen.  What to use on threads when assembling is a whole 'nother science, considering materials, environment, vibration etc. WoooWeee! says Mr. PBH.
Mr. Phil's machining skills are def. Pro level.

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Mr. Phil's machining skills are def. Pro level.

Uhh, yeah. :) Titanium is another thing entirely to cut.

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Awesome work Phil!

I can't tell from the pictures did you hollow out the bolts or is that just spot facing for live dead center? Anyhow you're not going to pick up one of those puppies at fastnal. Looking at the picture of the bikes rear end what gauge wire did you use for safety wire? Also the breather do have a post for what you did for the breather is there a reason as to why you made a stack with a nut in between the breather and the drive?

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1 hour ago, Kevin_T said:

Awesome work Phil!

I can't tell from the pictures did you hollow out the bolts or is that just spot facing for live dead center? Anyhow you're not going to pick up one of those puppies at fastnal. Looking at the picture of the bikes rear end what gauge wire did you use for safety wire? Also the breather do have a post for what you did for the breather is there a reason as to why you made a stack with a nut in between the breather and the drive?

No the end is just drilled for the live centre. Too much stick out for a 10mm shaft for threading Titanium. You need the support. Safety wire is .028" my preference for most fasteners. Anything thinner is too thin and .032" is a pain to use.  I have some thinner wire maybe .022" or something for light fasteners but I don't have much use for it on things these days. The breather is standard as far as I'm aware.

Phil

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I got the Ti fasteners for the rear drive finished. New torque arm bolt made and nut fitted along with new Titanium spacers. The new spacers allowed me to make them the precise width required. Previously I had a .5mm shim in there as well as the std spacers were a fraction thin. Now for some Ti fill and drain plugs. I've learned the secret to drilling Ti is super slow speeds. I turn all the Ti stuff at 460rpm but that's too fast for drilling. Around 290rpm or even slower for larger drilled holes seems to help the drills survive and back it out every 3 or 4 seconds to let it cool for a few seconds and never let off the pressure. it's either cutting pressure or zero pressure. Anything less than a positive cutting force and the material work hardens instantly and cooks the drill. If anyone else has some tips I'd be keen to hear them.  

Phil

IMG_3706.JPG

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What would these fasteners be equal to as in grade 2 , 5 or 8 ? In fractional standard fasteners. 

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I made up some bevel box drain plugs yesterday. I cheated and bought a couple of M12x1.75 plugs with the same hex head dia and turned down the threaded section and cut 10x1.5 threads which are a bit of an odd size for a drain plug. I had to also remove and shorten the magnets and re fit them as they were a bit long.

Phil

IMG_3713.JPG

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10 minutes ago, gstallons said:

...everything !

Except enough titanium parts. B)

I've got an advantage. I've got a bit of titanium screwed into my left wrist as a result of an accident in 2017 with disastrous results for the GTR 1000 I was riding. I'm absolutely convinced that the titanium makes me 10% faster over and above the 10% for the red colour of my two "small block" Guzzis. :grin:

 

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7 hours ago, audiomick said:

Except enough titanium parts. B)

I've got an advantage. I've got a bit of titanium screwed into my left wrist as a result of an accident in 2017 with disastrous results for the GTR 1000 I was riding. I'm absolutely convinced that the titanium makes me 10% faster over and above the 10% for the red colour of my two "small block" Guzzis. :grin:

 

Here's the Ti plate from my right wrist care of Phillip Island turn 10. BTW Mick if you put your middle and index finger on your left wrist like you're feeling for a pulse and move your thumb and feel a tiny, tiny vibration as your thumb is moving get the plate removed. It's the Tendon sawing it's way through on the edge of the plate. Hence the removal of mine.

Phil

IMG_3714.JPG

 

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2 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

Here's the Ti plate from my right wrist 

I've only seen mine on x-ray pictures, but that looks to be exactly the same.

Thanks for the advice. At the moment, it doesn't seem to be causing problems, but I keep an eye on it. :)

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5 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

Here's the Ti plate from my right wrist care of Phillip Island turn 10. BTW Mick if you put your middle and index finger on your left wrist like you're feeling for a pulse and move your thumb and feel a tiny, tiny vibration as your thumb is moving get the plate removed. It's the Tendon sawing it's way through on the edge of the plate. Hence the removal of mine.

Phil

IMG_3714.JPG

 

When you say "tendon sawing" , did it cut in two pieces and the docs had to go hunting ?

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9 hours ago, gstallons said:

When you say "tendon sawing" , did it cut in two pieces and the docs had to go hunting ?

No it was caught in time fortunately. I went in for another hand operation and when the surgeon did the pre op consultation he put the original operation on the back burner and prioritised the plate removal. Not having use of your thumb on the dominant hand would be a major life changing experience I'd imagine.

 

Phil

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