Changed fork seals and I have a problem

[activpop]

I just finished replacing fork seals on my 2012 NTX. The first one I pumped up and down after putting cap on...I felt it equalize the oil and after a few pumps, it felt like I think it should. You can feel the oil doing its thing. After completing the other one I compressed it to move the oil around, and I have no hydraulic feel, just spring. Pumped a few more times and still felt the same pogo effect, with zero hydraulic feel. And yes, same amount of oil in the leg. What did I do wrong?

[Lucky Phil]

What was it like before you replaced the seals? Did you notice. The cart may have failed internally before you pulled it apart and you hadn't noticed. Failing that remove the cap and spring and manually pump the cartridge.

 

Phil 

[activpop]

I never noticed because I think I only pumped one. It was mentioned on another site that they are supposed to be like that. One is for compression and the other is for rebound. I never imagined each leg could act so differently. I'm no suspension expert, but I can call one come Monday to get their take. There is a shop in California that deals with nothing else.

First time ever replacing seals. It was easier than I thought.

[Lucky Phil]

8 hours ago, activpop said:

I never noticed because I think I only pumped one. It was mentioned on another site that they are supposed to be like that. One is for compression and the other is for rebound. I never imagined each leg could act so differently. I'm no suspension expert, but I can call one come Monday to get their take. There is a shop in California that deals with nothing else.

First time ever replacing seals. It was easier than I thought.

You should still be able to feel the damping working in the compression leg if they are indeed comp one side rebound the other especially if you remove the spring and pump the cart itself.

Phil

[activpop]

Thanks Phil, I'll try that. I never had a clue that two fork legs could act so differently. I would think from a physical standpoint the unequal actions would have different forces exerted on each side of the axle. I guess the axle is pinned in so tightly that nothing negative gets transferred to the wheel, but I'm no engineer. I'm anxious to see what the shop says.

[Lucky Phil]

56 minutes ago, activpop said:

Thanks Phil, I'll try that. I never had a clue that two fork legs could act so differently. I would think from a physical standpoint the unequal actions would have different forces exerted on each side of the axle. I guess the axle is pinned in so tightly that nothing negative gets transferred to the wheel, but I'm no engineer. I'm anxious to see what the shop says.

It's very common to have the rebound and comp in separate legs. USD forks and axles are very ridged these days so it's no issue.

[docc]

Is it possible that @activpop's rebound fork feels like just the spring (no damping), but damps upon extension (hard to feel) and there is nothing at all wrong with his forks?

[activpop]

That has been mentioned before by others. I have not been able to detect much difference at full plus and minus settings, either in or out. I've been a pumping fool and tried, but nothing discernable to me. I hope to have a yay or nay tomorrow after chatting with some pros.

[Lucky Phil]

2 hours ago, activpop said:

That has been mentioned before by others. I have not been able to detect much difference at full plus and minus settings, either in or out. I've been a pumping fool and tried, but nothing discernible to me. I hope to have a yay or nay tomorrow after chatting with some pros.

My feelings aren't hurt, really 

 

Phil

[activpop]

8 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

My feelings aren't hurt, really 

OK, some other pros...how's that? I figure it would be wise to talk to the guys who do suspension work all week every week. 

[activpop]

Just got the skinny from California. @Lucky Philwas onto something when he said to remove the cap and pump. I found out from the shop the proper way to bleed the fork to get all air out, and I suspect that needs to be done better. I have a fork bleeder ordered so when it comes I can dial that side in better. I also know now the proper way to check fluid level, so between those two things I should be good to go.

[docc]

2 hours ago, activpop said:

Just got the skinny from California. @Lucky Philwas onto something when he said to remove the cap and pump. I found out from the shop the proper way to bleed the fork to get all air out, and I suspect that needs to be done better. I have a fork bleeder ordered so when it comes I can dial that side in better. I also know now the proper way to check fluid level, so between those two things I should be good to go.

And?

[activpop]

34 minutes ago, docc said:

And?

What else do you want to know? I can't move further on this until I get that bleeder. Now if I was @Lucky Phil, I would just make one. Easy peasy for him. Should have it in a few days. Unfortunately,  not everybody moves as quickly as Amazon. 

[docc]

4 minutes ago, activpop said:

What else do you want to know? I can't move further on this until I get that bleeder. Now if I was @Lucky Phil, I would just make one. Easy peasy for him. Should have it in a few days. Unfortunately,  not everybody moves as quickly as Amazon. 

The "proper way to check the fluid level" . . .

[activpop]

When I took the fork tubes off the bike and drained the oil, I drained each tube into a separate graduated vessel to see if both quantities were equal. It turns out they were...600ml in each tube. Perfect I thought, both equal. I never knew how much fluid leaked for the previous owner but the telltale signs were there on the bottom of one fork tube. I used a Sealmate on it when I got it home and that pretty much stopped it, but still wanted to change the seals and dust caps because they were over ten years old, and Stelvios have a history of leaky seals. So going by volume, I guess not too much was lost. After replacing seals I filled up the forks with 600 ml of new oil.  Where it wound up as far as level down from the cap I have no clue. 

The guys at the shop said that was wrong. For a Stelvio the oil level needs to be 120mm down from the top of the tube with the spring out, fork bled and bottomed out. You can't go by volume. That proper air gap is an essential part of the suspension working properly.

So when I get the bleed tool I will uncap the forks, remove springs, spill some oil out and proceed to bleed air, then measure and fill as necessary. 

As I said before, this is my first time doing this, so I learned some new stuff in the last day or two.