UK Coppa Italia recommision

[wavey_davey1]

[wavey_davey1]

Weird/Ugly earthing arrangement!

 

 

 

[gstallons]

It looks like they were trying to correct something . And it wasn't working.

[docc]

Thanks, @wavey_davey1, for the detailed update. Welldone, and carry on!    

Just to stand by the record, GutsiBits ripped the Roper plate design without permission or acknowledgment. While they might, otherwise, serve the community well enough, that transgression is a mark against them.

Two of our members have provided us with approved "P.Roper" plates honoring the designer with donations to "Doctors Without Borders." 

Perhaps you could invite them to make a donation , in kind . . .

                                           Médecins sans Frontières

 

[wavey_davey1]

Apologies, I was unaware of the "back story" with the Gutsibits supplied Roper plates. I'd also surmised (incorrectly?) that I'd missed the boat by a few months getting one from the guys supplying the plates from this forum, otherwise would have gone down that route in any case.

Anyhow, I've just made a donation to Medicine sans Frontiers myself to honour Pete's input to these.

[docc]

40 minutes ago, wavey_davey1 said:

Apologies, I was unaware of the "back story" with the Gutsibits supplied Roper plates. I'd also surmised (incorrectly?) that I'd missed the boat by a few months getting one from the guys supplying the plates from this forum, otherwise would have gone down that route in any case.

Anyhow, I've just made a donation to Medicine sans Frontiers myself to honour Pete's input to these.

Wow, my man, welldone!   I had not considered that option.

I cannot recall if @DucatiGuzziIndian has any plates left from his run. @Pressureangle told me he has a resource to run a one-off.

Thanks for keeping us up on your V11 progress, @wavey_davey1.   

[po18guy]

On 8/21/2024 at 9:36 AM, wavey_davey1 said:

Ok, so as per my recent "introduce yourself" post, I have bought a Coppa Italia imported from Japan by a dealer, described as a "barn find".

In this case I actually think it might have been in a barn! The date code on the tyres is 2007 and there's numerous signs around the bike of having been stored either in slightly damp conditions and/or UV damage though fundamentally in good condition? I suspect it might be a deceased estate purchase as there's a few expensive extras that came with it, but also signs of poor storage, we'll never know?

I'm no stranger to restorations (which is not how I see this project) having resurrected a T3 Cali, numerous 60s/70s Bonnevilles and Commandos etc, but never really had that much involvement with a spine frame over and above tank-off checklist type stuff. I see this one as requiring a bit more than that somehow!

 

First hurdle was getting the badly uv hardened paint film off without destroying the paint and decals underneath. So far it's working, albeit very slow process (combination of gentle heat gun and specialised solvent) but the tailpiece decals aren't clearcoated so will have to repair small areas or source new ones/get copies made, we'll see.

I wanted to clean it up a bit before any stripdown or startup, as much to give me some motivation as anything else. It's really filthy, even under the tank etc. Oddly though oils look clean as does brake fluid, and there's a small amount of what looks like reasonably fresh fuel in the tank, which I'll change out before powering up the pump etc.

 

I've sourced new oil, oil filter, fuel filter and just had 10 Picker relays arrive from Digikey in the states (2 days shipment time!) as it currently has the dreaded Tycos.

 

Will post a few updates as and when, (and steer specific questions into the technical forum) though this project is competing with my brother's BSA 250 charging issue and a few other bits and pieces, plus the demands of a 10 year old daughter, so it's not going to be a 2 weeks and ride off into the sunset thing.

 

 

 

 

It must have been stored indoors near a source of ozone. I have NEVER seen tyres cracked like that. I still have a 1971 Pirelli Universal on an ancient Yamaha and it is in far better condition.

Would naphtha slowly dissolve the goo on the tank? Or, is that what you are using?

[wavey_davey1]

On 9/25/2024 at 7:50 PM, po18guy said:

It must have been stored indoors near a source of ozone. I have NEVER seen tyres cracked like that. I still have a 1971 Pirelli Universal on an ancient Yamaha and it is in far better condition.

Would naphtha slowly dissolve the goo on the tank? Or, is that what you are using?

I'm using a proprietary sticker/glue/RTV silicone remover, mainly because it's paint friendly. I've now got 90% of the actual film off (apart from over the delicate decals) so mostly dealing with sticky residue. So thinking other mild solvents might be worth trying (under the seat area first!)

Agree on those tyres, I once reimported a Triumph Hurricane on the original ribbed front tyre from 1972. It snapped like a rotten carrot with mild application of a tyre lever but didn't look nearly as bad as these. Possibly ozone plus UV? All the wiring loom connector gaiters and suspension dust seals are similar but inlet manifold rubbers seem ok??

[Lucky Phil]

17 minutes ago, wavey_davey1 said:

I'm using a proprietary sticker/glue/RTV silicone remover, mainly because it's paint friendly. I've now got 90% of the actual film off (apart from over the delicate decals) so mostly dealing with sticky residue. So thinking other mild solvents might be worth trying (under the seat area first!)

Agree on those tyres, I once reimported a Triumph Hurricane on the original ribbed front tyre from 1972. It snapped like a rotten carrot with mild application of a tyre lever but didn't look nearly as bad as these. Possibly ozone plus UV? All the wiring loom connector gaiters and suspension dust seals are similar but inlet manifold rubbers seem ok??

This

https://www.amazon.it/Cancellare-Adattatore-rimozione-Professionale-pellicole/dp/B08BG3D9Y3/ref=asc_df_B08BG3D9Y3/?tag=googshopit-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=701213345730&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5995203386749263621&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9218491&hvtargid=pla-925105828522&mcid=4f1e119a2e33385b94bfaabb262910d8&gad_source=1&language=en_GB&th=1

[gstallons]

we were using those eraser things for a while. Just didn't work fast enough . Incredibly , we used heat guns to pull off decal/stickers from company trucks and construction equipment . when you get one corner loose , you could get it all off in one attempt. Now , this is a skilled effort so be careful .  You will want to practice on something not so valuable !

[gstallons]

BTW , remove the filler cap from the tank for a week before you do anything with it.

[Lucky Phil]

42 minutes ago, gstallons said:

we were using those eraser things for a while. Just didn't work fast enough . Incredibly , we used heat guns to pull off decal/stickers from company trucks and construction equipment . when you get one corner loose , you could get it all off in one attempt. Now , this is a skilled effort so be careful .  You will want to practice on something not so valuable !

Incredibly? This is how I normally remove tank decals and pretty much any decal. Warm it with a heat gun before attempting removal. If you're too scared of a heat gun you can also use boiled water. The heat gun is easy and safe though, wave the gun over the decal and use your fingers to repeatedly check the surface temp of the decal. Hand hot is around 50-60 deg C and thats enough to soften the glue and 50-60 C won't hurt any painted or plastic surface.

The other popular method these days that professionals use to remove automotive PPE is a steam gun. Same as those ones you can buy for home use to clean tiles etc. Fast and safe. I've not used the steam gun method myself but seen it done and it's more forgiving than a heat gun if you're not the type that can concentrate for more than a few minutes at a time. 

Phil  

Edited September 29 by Lucky Phil

[wavey_davey1]

Never seen one of those decal removal "wheels", interesting but a bit late for my purposes. Also given the brittle nature of the film, all bets are off on it working I suspect?!

Yes I've been using a heat gun along with the solvent. The film was way too old and UV hardened (what a surprise) to peel off, it would just break off in tiny flakes. Slightly easier on the tail area for some reason. I also went too hot in a couple of spots and managed to damage the green stripe in the paintwork with my nail. Not a huge mark but annoying given I was being really careful. I'd assumed it was reasonably well protected under a clear coat, oh well - see pic.

 

Yes I'm ahead of you (for once) gstallons, I've had the drained tank sitting with fuel cap open and pump plate removed for over a week now to "dry out". I'm trying to do as many jobs as possible up to first fire-up before replacing tank (drying out) and sump (waiting for Roper Plate). Probably a good idea to actually remove the cap as you say, but with the plate off it's getting pretty well aired.

 

Thanks for all the input guys.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[wavey_davey1]

Also connected battery for first time after cleaning up relay mounts and installing the new Picker relays (and removing the pump fuse). Those weird led lights turned out to be side marker lights rather than indicators. Never seen anything like that before and the masses of wires used to connect them up all removed now. The aftermarket "on/off" switch mounted on the instrument binnacle is a headlamp on/off, presumably to save battery drain as it's been fitted with a PIAA 80w halogen unit. All the other electrics seem to work ok, I'll only reconnect pump when tank back on.

I might just refit sump without roper plate, do oil fill and do a proper (albeit cold) compression check as starter motor seems fine?

 

 

[wavey_davey1]

Also the tacky (as in not very classy, rather than sticky) fake carbon wrap off the hugger. This came off waaay easier than the tank/seat film. Very satisfying!