nuevototem Posted August 26 Share Posted August 26 Hi team! What do you think about the play in this drive shaft? Is it normal that it's not completely tight? Also, how much torque (in Nm) do you use on those two screws? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted August 26 Share Posted August 26 It is hard to see, but is that input shaft movement in and out of the bevel drive or the driveshaft yoke moving on the input shaft? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nuevototem Posted August 26 Author Share Posted August 26 (edited) Hi Docc!!! this is what is happening, the cardan shaft (2) is the one that is moving... the cardan angle drive (29) is fine. What torque nm is needed in screws (3)? Edited August 26 by nuevototem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiomick Posted August 26 Share Posted August 26 2 hours ago, docc said: It is hard to see, but is that input shaft movement in and out of the bevel drive or the driveshaft yoke moving on the input shaft? It's the final drive end. Firstly, I think I can accurately remember what it looks like. Secondly, you wouldn't be able to get that camera angle at the gearbox end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted August 26 Share Posted August 26 Ah, yes the cardan shaft yokes should be clamped tightly (at both ends). The 6mm bolts are torqued 8-12 Nm. Correction: 8mm x 1,25 pitch/ torque spec is 25-30Nm. Because of the pinching action, go back and forth between the two until they are torqued the same since tightening one will loosen the other until they are finally the same. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiomick Posted August 26 Share Posted August 26 I went down and had a look at mine. Definitely the final drive end, and mine has no movement at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiomick Posted August 26 Share Posted August 26 (edited) A thought occurred to me: with that much movement in the rear uni joint on the shaft, I'd be inclined to take the shaft out, pull it apart and inspect the sliding joint in the middle where the second grease nipple is. If that is not moving smoothly, there will be forces caused by suspension movement on both ends of the shaft, which could cause that sort of movement in the uni joint. And not be good for the uni joints at both ends. Edited August 26 by audiomick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomchri Posted August 26 Share Posted August 26 1 hour ago, docc said: Ah, yes the cardan shaft yokes should be clamped tightly (at both ends). The 6mm bolts are torqued 8-12 Nm. Because of the pinching action, go back and forth between the two until they are torqued the same since tightening one will loosen the other until they are finally the same. Isn't it 8mm bolts, so 8-12nm will not do it. Cheers Tom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted August 26 Share Posted August 26 54 minutes ago, Tomchri said: Isn't it 8mm bolts, so 8-12nm will not do it. Cheers Tom. Hmmm, I measured the holes in the yoke instead of the bolts, themselves. I will check my work when home in a few hours.... Thanks, @Tomchri! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiomick Posted August 26 Share Posted August 26 (edited) 1 hour ago, Tomchri said: Isn't it 8mm bolts, so 8-12nm will not do it. Yes, I believe I believe it is. I changed mine last year, so there is a vague memory. And this: https://www.stein-dinse.biz/etkataloge/etkataloge.php?l=de&h=MG&m=220&t=5384#a174923 Part #3 in the diagramme. When I click on the link, it is highlighted in yellow in the list. M8 x 30 Edited August 26 by audiomick 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted August 26 Share Posted August 26 2 hours ago, Tomchri said: Isn't it 8mm bolts, so 8-12nm will not do it. Cheers Tom. 1 hour ago, audiomick said: Yes, I believe I believe it is. I changed mine last year, so there is a vague memory. And this: https://www.stein-dinse.biz/etkataloge/etkataloge.php?l=de&h=MG&m=220&t=5384#a174923 Part #3 in the diagramme. When I click on the link, it is highlighted in yellow in the list. M8 x 30 Thank you both for the correct contribution. Measuring the actual bolt cross references to @audiomick's link as 8mm x 1,25 thread pitch. The Workshop Manual lists this torque as 25-30 Nm. Original post corrected. My apologies and thank you, all, again for checking the posts here for correctness and accuracy! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomchri Posted August 27 Share Posted August 27 21 hours ago, docc said: Thank you both for the correct contribution. Measuring the actual bolt cross references to @audiomick's link as 8mm x 1,25 thread pitch. The Workshop Manual lists this torque as 25-30 Nm. Original post corrected. My apologies and thank you, all, again for checking the posts here for correctness and accuracy! . Cheers Tom. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete roper Posted August 27 Share Posted August 27 Don’t forget to make sure the trunnions are correctly aligned if you separate the shaft or if it hasn’t been removed before during your ownership. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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