Jump to content

How to edit the engine map for a V11 15M ECU?


nuevototem

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have the cable and can connect perfectly to GuzziDiag with my V11 (ECU IAM15M.C5). Everything is working fine.

However, how can I view and edit the engine map? I plan to go to a shop for the actual tuning, but I want to ensure I have the right software to do it correctly.

Thanks and regards!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guzzidiag can not read out the map, or show you the map. It's purpose it to show you the values that the various sensors are delivering to the ECU. It does that very well, but that is all it does.

I haven't delved into the map myself, but have read a lot about it, mostly in German directly from the blokes involved in developing Guzzidiag.

 

To view the map you need the reader from Beard, the same bloke who wrote Guzzidiag. The program can be found here:

https://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/

That reads out the current map in your ECU. I gather connecting with that is pretty much the same as with Guzzidiag.

To view and change the map, as far as I understand it, you need TunerPro

https://www.tunerpro.net/

To write your modified map back into the ECU, you need the writer, also available from Beard's site from the first link.

 

I can't tell you too much about using the reader and writer programs, other than that you should have your computer connected to the mains, and be really, really sure the battery in the bike is good. Better still, connected to a charger. If the process is interrupted, particularly writing the map back to the ECU, you risk turning your ECU into a quaint paper weight. You need to make sure that neither the computer nor the bike run out of volts during the process.

 

Oh, and make sure you save the original map somewhere safe immediately after reading it out. If it all goes tits up, you might want to write the original map back in and start from scratch. :)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, audiomick said:

Guzzidiag can not read out the map, or show you the map. It's purpose it to show you the values that the various sensors are delivering to the ECU. It does that very well, but that is all it does.

I haven't delved into the map myself, but have read a lot about it, mostly in German directly from the blokes involved in developing Guzzidiag.

 

To view the map you need the reader from Beard, the same bloke who wrote Guzzidiag. The program can be found here:

https://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/

That reads out the current map in your ECU. I gather connecting with that is pretty much the same as with Guzzidiag.

To view and change the map, as far as I understand it, you need TunerPro

https://www.tunerpro.net/

To write your modified map back into the ECU, you need the writer, also available from Beard's site from the first link.

 

I can't tell you too much about using the reader and writer programs, other than that you should have your computer connected to the mains, and be really, really sure the battery in the bike is good. Better still, connected to a charger. If the process is interrupted, particularly writing the map back to the ECU, you risk turning your ECU into a quaint paper weight. You need to make sure that neither the computer nor the bike run out of volts during the process.

 

Oh, and make sure you save the original map somewhere safe immediately after reading it out. If it all goes tits up, you might want to write the original map back in and start from scratch. :)

Definitely step one is to make sure you have a solid backup of the map.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, nuevototem said:

Hi all,

I have the cable and can connect perfectly to GuzziDiag with my V11 (ECU IAM15M.C5). Everything is working fine.

However, how can I view and edit the engine map? I plan to go to a shop for the actual tuning, but I want to ensure I have the right software to do it correctly.

Thanks and regards!

You download the map with the Guzzidiag "reader" and save the map to your computer. The first time you read the original map takes about 10 minutes and doesn't actually remove the map just reads and then you save the copy to your computer. You then download off the web The Tunerpro software and then take your original ecu map you copied and saved to your computer known as a .bin file and upload it onto Tunerpro. Tunerpro is a programme that makes the .bin file you downloaded with the "reader" programme human readable and also allows you to modify the maps. Once you have taken your original map copy and adjusted it you can save it to your computer using a different name and also make notes on what was changed and then use the Guzzidia "writer" programme to install the modified map. It sounds complex but in practice it's very easy. i'm a computer muppet and even I find it easy after the first time. After that you can change maps in literally under 1 minute with a laptop sitting next to the bike. Here's what a map looks like in Tunerpro. In this case the ignition map and a main fuel map. You can change anything you see here, save it and upload to the bike with the "writer" programme.

Screenshot 2023-10-06 153204.png

 

Screenshot 2021-11-02 122425.png

Edited by Lucky Phil
  • Like 4
  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all!

Thanks for the info. I connected GuzziDiag's "reader" and successfully downloaded the .bin file. However, when I opened it with TunerPro, nothing appeared. I've uploaded the BIN file here.

Do I need to do anything specific when opening the BIN in TunerPro? Also, I noticed there are two versions—TunerPro and TunerPro RT. Which one should I use? Can anyone check the BIN file I uploaded?

Thanks and regards!

MG V11 original map.bin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

you might want to use this XDF. I've restarted investigating the 15M/RC code some time ago and updated the XDFs as well. Not finished by far, but more comments and naming of previously unknown scalars/tables.

Cheers
Meinolf

15M_GuzziDiag_V3.0.xdf

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Hi Meinolf!!!

Hope you’re well!

I have a Moto Guzzi V11 SPORT with an ECU 15M (no lambda), a Stucci X-pipe, Mistral MG1001 exhaust, and the top of the airbox removed. I’ve attached photos of the ECU, the original BIN file, and the information I found using GuzziDiag.

I’ve handled all the maintenance myself since the bike was new, but I’m experiencing the well-known issue of coughing through the airbox around 3,000 RPM. Could you please recommend the actions I should take to resolve this?

Also, do you have a BIN file that would suit my bike's setup?

I send an email to guzzidiag@gmail.com asking for this too.

Thank you!

Moto Guzzi V11 SPORT ECU IAW15M.C5.jpg

Moto Guzzi V11 SPORT ECU IAW15M.C5.png

MG V11 original map.bin

Edited by nuevototem
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

your setup, especially modifying the airbox, is counterproductive. Removing the lid and snorkels decreases air throughput itself and the makes for unsteady airflow. Numerous benchmarks have shown that the original X-pipe is overall the best one.

Anyway, attached the latest version of the BIN I'm working on. After having started logging AFR left/right, rpm and TPS several years ago using Innovate LM2, which is highly unsuited for the job, I recently installed the Zeitronix ZT2/ZT3 equipment and began relogging. Much more accurate, though the data analysis software sucks.

The latest version is attached. My setup is mostly original except for TI exhausts (will move back to stock as the are much to loud), modified butterfly valves and shafts, original airbox with bell-formed entrance of the snorkels. The butterfly mod is the most likely to impact the usability of my BIN with other bikes.

Your setup will likely result in a richer mixture and decreased AFR. Just try it. However, the BIN might be useful as base for your own tuning, as I corrected several of the (faulty) original trim tables - baro, engine/air temp.

The BIN is optimized for 0.25mm valve play, both exhaust and intake. It's absolutely essential that the TPS is set to 157mV. Not 150mV, as commonly suggested, that value is the result of wrong rounding in the TPS lookup tables converting mV to degree in the BIN. Both bypass screws completely closed. Synchronisation in idle only via the TPS stop screws (this needs to be done carefully, as it depends on leveraging the looseness in the connections), sync procdure at higherr pms is unchanged. CO trim set to 0.

The AFR target values I selected are based on the vacuum in the intake tract. Rich in areas where the throttling effect is low, leaner in areas with higher throttle losses.

The lowest hanging fruit is to sync AFR values in as many breakpoints which can be reached while street riding or test bench. Actual AFR values, unless there's a serious lean/reach situation, have much less impact. Avoid stochiometric AFRs. While the V11 engine works reasonably well in closed loop (15RC) at 14.3, it doesn't run well at even slightly leaner AFRs.

Cheers
Meinolf

 

v11 3.6.2024.bin

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, Meinolf said:

Hi,

your setup, especially modifying the airbox, is counterproductive. Removing the lid and snorkels decreases air throughput itself and the makes for unsteady airflow. Numerous benchmarks have shown that the original X-pipe is overall the best one.

Anyway, attached the latest version of the BIN I'm working on. After having started logging AFR left/right, rpm and TPS several years ago using Innovate LM2, which is highly unsuited for the job, I recently installed the Zeitronix ZT2/ZT3 equipment and began relogging. Much more accurate, though the data analysis software sucks.

The latest version is attached. My setup is mostly original except for TI exhausts (will move back to stock as the are much to loud), modified butterfly valves and shafts, original airbox with bell-formed entrance of the snorkels. The butterfly mod is the most likely to impact the usability of my BIN with other bikes.

Your setup will likely result in a richer mixture and decreased AFR. Just try it. However, the BIN might be useful as base for your own tuning, as I corrected several of the (faulty) original trim tables - baro, engine/air temp.

The BIN is optimized for 0.25mm valve play, both exhaust and intake. It's absolutely essential that the TPS is set to 157mV. Not 150mV, as commonly suggested, that value is the result of wrong rounding in the TPS lookup tables converting mV to degree in the BIN. Both bypass screws completely closed. Synchronisation in idle only via the TPS stop screws (this needs to be done carefully, as it depends on leveraging the looseness in the connections), sync procdure at higherr pms is unchanged. CO trim set to 0.

The AFR target values I selected are based on the vacuum in the intake tract. Rich in areas where the throttling effect is low, leaner in areas with higher throttle losses.

The lowest hanging fruit is to sync AFR values in as many breakpoints which can be reached while street riding or test bench. Actual AFR values, unless there's a serious lean/reach situation, have much less impact. Avoid stochiometric AFRs. While the V11 engine works reasonably well in closed loop (15RC) at 14.3, it doesn't run well at even slightly leaner AFRs.

Cheers
Meinolf

 

v11 3.6.2024.bin 64 kB · 6 downloads

Significant changes there in every area.

Phil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...