docc Posted September 2 Posted September 2 Split 77 posts from the last 6 months into this dedicated topic from the "30 amp fuse failure " thread . . . 3
80CX100 Posted September 3 Posted September 3 I'm definitely no sparky,but I'll throw a few thoughts out there,fwiw. Iirc,this is a relatively mint, low mileage, new to you, V11 Lemans;stator output tests fine,but the battery & bike aren't charging,,,2 new R/R's haven't fixed it,,,, I don't think a new stator will either,,,because I think the problem is further upstream from the R/R. Iirc,these permanent magnet alternators put out max power for whatever rpm it's turning & the surplus unused electrickery gets shunted off to ground,generating heat in the process; the main battery ground on the spine frames can't just look good, mine needed to be removed & sanded down shiney. A few yrs ago I lost the charging on my CX100,when the reference wire for the R/R disconnected. It was a simple find & fix for me to trace the reference wire & reconnect it to the spare terminal at the coil, fed with good clean relay power. Docc & gstallons described the R/R reference wire as being Red/Black & the circuit it connects to, having brake lights, instrument lights etc,,, your R/R needs to see good clean voltage in the proper range from that connection in order to work. I'm a bit of a luddite when it comes to led lights on bikes. I've bought bikes with led lights that were a pita,conflicts & not getting along with other components; Iirc, you've installed led lights on the circuit that your R/R is taking it's reference readings from,,,,, with their low operating range & possible conflicts with other components; could your leds be doing funky things with the good clean voltage within a certain range,that your R/R reference wire is looking for. Idk? From your riding description, short fast rides, with possible battery tenders involved,,, you might have had charging issues for a while without realizing it. patience, it'll come 1
gstallons Posted September 3 Posted September 3 This alternator in the video (i s a conventional alternator) is a 3phase output and the v11 is a pancake or single phase system. you have two wires coming from the stator. Do yourself a favor and repair this 30a fuse connection . Remove enough factory wiring to get to a good unburnt section of wiring harness and install a quality CB and quality wiring and connectors. This advice now goes to EVERYONE on this forum . Stop buying this Amazon / eBay Chinese junk . I don't care if you can buy this stuff for any amount of money. If you flew aircraft would you purchase a reman component for $35 v $600 because you saved money ? I am not 30 yrs old any more and I am not pushing a bike to the next exit. 3
LaGrasta Posted September 3 Author Posted September 3 (edited) @80CX100 Very interesting, and you may be onto something, thank you for your suggestion. As you stated, I am using LED in my instrument lights. I thought the R/R only used the headlight though. @gstallons I replaced my 30a fuse withe a CB, working good. However initially it did still heat up and begin to melt. Since then, I once again cut and resoldered the CB. I ordered the stator today. If not needed, it will at least rule it out with certainty. Edited September 3 by LaGrasta
docc Posted September 3 Posted September 3 So, what is the voltage of the red/green wire KOEO and KOER?
LaGrasta Posted September 5 Author Posted September 5 On 9/3/2024 at 1:20 PM, docc said: So, what is the voltage of the red/green wire KOEO and KOER? 12.6 and 12.2
docc Posted September 5 Posted September 5 56 minutes ago, LaGrasta said: 12.6 and 12.2 And your battery voltage is the same KOEO/KOER? edit: The red/green is the charging wire through the circuit breaker (fuse) to the battery positive. Voltages on that wire should be the same as the battery if all if that circuit is intact. Next, what are the voltages on the reference wire? This is found in the two wire connector on the left side of the frame. It is the darker of the two wires. (My 1999-2001 wiring diagram shows it as Red/black, but mine is just black.)
LaGrasta Posted September 5 Author Posted September 5 12.6 and 12.2, is the voltage of the reference wire. 1
docc Posted September 6 Posted September 6 This was suggested before, but it really does act like one of the ring terminals, either on the positive or negative side, got dropped off the battery; as if the charging system has been 'unplugged." 1
LaGrasta Posted September 6 Author Posted September 6 I receive my new stator today. I guess I'll give it another look over prior to replacing it. I have a good friend, a certified Toyota mechanic giving me a hand, and neither of us can find anything. It's over 100° here in SoCal so I'm not sure when I'll get to this. Next Wednesday, I leave for a month long vacation. I hope to have this wrapped up before I leave! Thanks again for all of your help everyone, appreciate you! 2
LaGrasta Posted October 19 Author Posted October 19 Hello my friends! I've just returned from my month long trip; Spain, Portugal, Croatia. It sure is good to be back! This morning I put in the new stator, it looks so nice! But it didn't do a damn thing. Basically the battery moves from 13 to 13.4, regardless of engine off, idle, or revving. I think I'll ride it a bit, and see what happens. If the battery stays charged, then I'll continue. If it doesn't, I may drop it off at GuzziTech in Orange. I'm out of ideas, and new parts!
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