docc Posted August 7 Share Posted August 7 1 hour ago, LaGrasta said: Advice, direction? Have you tested the output of the stator and the condition of its yellow wire attachments and connectors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiomick Posted August 7 Share Posted August 7 (edited) A thought has been bothering me all evening. I really don't know if it is relevant, but it wont leave me alone. The 30A fuse is between the regulator/rectifier and the battery. Some types of load suck power, as much as the source can supply. Lower voltage for a given power figure means higher currents. We've already established that higher current across a resistance causes more warmth generation. So what if the regulator (or the alternator) is not providing enough volts (some previous posts indicate that this might be the case) and the battery is pulling more current to try and get charged? As far as I know, batteries are one of the types of load that do that. Over and above the question about the quality of the regulator/rectifier, are you sure that the battery is good? Edited August 7 by audiomick 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted August 7 Share Posted August 7 2 minutes ago, audiomick said: A thought has been bothering me all evening. I really don't know if it is relevant, but it wont leave me alone. The 30A fuse is between the regulator/rectifier and the battery. Some types of load suck power, as much as the source can supply. Lower voltage for a given power figure mean higher currents. We've already established that higher current across a resistance causes more warmth generation. So what if the regulator (or the alternator) is not providing enough volts (some previous posts indicate that this might be the case) and the battery is pulling more current to try and get charged? As far as I know, batteries are one of the types of load that do that. Are you sure that the battery is good? This is the type of thinking that put me on the battery conditioning crusade. Just my considered opinion, but our V11 G-string-of-a-charging-system should not be expected to actually "charge" a deficient AGM like the Odyssey PC545. In my opinion, that is a formula for overheating the charging system, component failures, and poor running conditions. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaGrasta Posted August 7 Author Share Posted August 7 1 hour ago, docc said: Have you tested the output of the stator and the condition of its yellow wire attachments and connectors? I have, all good. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted August 7 Share Posted August 7 (edited) That seems to be the bad place and a good spot to start . Neither one of my bikes have an electrical problem (YET) and I sure don't want to F it up by working on them . Edited August 7 by gstallons 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaGrasta Posted August 8 Author Share Posted August 8 I just called ElectroSport, I'm impressed! I merely called to ask if local pickup is available and was referred to their tech, prior to visiting. This guy was super knowledgable, helpful, and helped diagnosed, albeit over the phone. He was surprised, but agreed, it sounds like my Amazon $40 RR is dead on arrival. Made in the USA, one year warranty too; I'm heading there in just a bit. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaGrasta Posted August 19 Author Share Posted August 19 I installed the ElectroSport rectifier, no change! I have amperage coming off the stator, varying depending on rpm, as it should. If I disconnect the battery while running, the bike dies. All test point to the rectifier, however I now own the original, a $40 Chinese one, and the $150 ElectroSport one and they all fail. What next, boys? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted August 19 Share Posted August 19 What is the AC voltage being output by the two yellow wires from the stator? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiomick Posted August 19 Share Posted August 19 6 hours ago, LaGrasta said: .... If I disconnect the battery while running, the bike dies.... It's quite late in the evening here, so every chance that I may be dreaming, but... I just had a quick look at the circuit diagramme. A wire comes from the regulator, through a fuse, to the battery. Going away from the battery are a couple of wires that supply 12 V to parts of the electrical system, one of which goes to the ignition switch. So, when you "disconnect the battery", what precisely are you disconnecting? If the clamp on the plus terminal contains all those wires, and all connections are good, the electrical system should be getting volts directly from the regulator. The circuit diagramme indicates that alle three wires are (somehow) connected to each other. Are you sure this is the case? To put it another way, are you absolutely sure that when you disconnect the battery, you are not inadvertantly disconnecting the power supply to, for instance, the ignition switch? If the cables are all "in a bundle", do they all most certainly have good contacts to each other and so forth? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted August 20 Share Posted August 20 Before the advent of F.I. , computer controls & outer space technology : you could disconnect one battery post and if the vehicle continued running the charging system was working. Please do not do this with anything now . Bad stuff can happen . You do need a voltmeter connected to the battery to test KOEO battery voltage , KOER battery voltage at idle , 1500 rpm and 2500 rpm. IDK what the #s should be but test and give us these #s . Someone can give a good opinion. Can you give us a work history and a parts install history so we can look this stuff over and give an opinion ? The maxim "you put enuf parts on it and it will work" doesn't always work . There is something overlooked or bad parts or all the above ! 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiomick Posted August 20 Share Posted August 20 15 hours ago, gstallons said: ... KOEO battery voltage , KOER battery voltage. Please translate for the plebs here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaGrasta Posted August 20 Author Share Posted August 20 23 hours ago, docc said: What is the AC voltage being output by the two yellow wires from the stator? It varies depending on throttle; 40, 60, 80, etc. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaGrasta Posted August 20 Author Share Posted August 20 (edited) @audiomick you must be correct, I disconnect the entire wire cluster from the positive battery terminal. Edited August 20 by LaGrasta 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaGrasta Posted August 20 Author Share Posted August 20 @gstallons I have a fairly new lithium battery (fully charged), OEM stator, OEM harness, OEM fuse block, now with circuit breaker in place of 30a fuse.. I've only added a new rectifier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted August 20 Share Posted August 20 On 8/19/2024 at 11:57 AM, LaGrasta said: What next, boys? Series of voltage readings under various "states" . . . 16 hours ago, gstallons said: KOEO battery voltage , KOER battery voltage at idle , 1500 rpm and 2500 rpm. 31 minutes ago, audiomick said: Please translate for the plebs here. KOEO = Key On/ Engine Off KOER = Key On/ Engine Running (at idle, at 1500 rpm, at 2500 rpm. I would also take one more voltage reading before turning the key on, after the battery has sat quiet for some hours (perhaps six hours or more). . . . 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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