Turn Signals quit

[dbarb3]

Well I can tell I dont ride much at night I am not very observant

Tail light, tag light, city light,  intrument lights are all out  Good grief

[docc]

10 minutes ago, dbarb3 said:

Well I can tell I dont ride much at night I am not very observant

Tail light, tag light, city light,  intrument lights are all out  Good grief

That is helpful for the troubleshooting.

Yet, you found ~12v (what gstallons calls "B+"/battery positive voltage) to Fuse 6 & 7 with the Ignition on?

Can you see the voltage is 12.xx?

12.00 . . . 12.45 . . . 12.84 ?

 

[gstallons]

You know before you get done , you will have your bike in the kitchen or living room with your wife holding the test light and voltmeter .

 and sorry , my electronics instructor always said "B +" and I have maintained that term .

Edited September 18 by gstallons

[dbarb3]

6  11.6

7  11.8

[gstallons]

 You measure 11.6-11.8v at the fuses. What do you get at the battery ? You may want to install a battery charger to keep the battery "up" while you are working on this . 

Pacify me and put a test light on both sides of those 6 & 7 fuses and does the fuse remain lit and does the R-BI (IDK what colors they are) end of the flasher connector light up ?

Edited September 18 by gstallons

[dbarb3]

dont have a test light unfortunatly  I will test battery and check voltage 

[dbarb3]

Charged battery for a few

Battery 13.1

Fuses 6 12.2

Fues 7 12.3

[docc]

That seems like a lot of voltage drop. Still could be ignition switch and/or dodgy connectors in the harness.

Just getting the battery voltage up, does the tail light give any glow or the turn signals try to wink?

[dbarb3]

I have a feeling gonna have to pull tank and start looking 

Really good charge  none of the lights we discussed are working

[gstallons]

Not to be a smart a$$ but what's under the tank ?

There is a wiring harness connector. 

[docc]

32 minutes ago, dbarb3 said:

I have a feeling gonna have to pull tank and start looking 

Really good charge  none of the lights we discussed are working

Ignition switch is accessible without pulling tank or fairing.  Worth inspecting and cleaning.

[dbarb3]

Thank you everyone After Gene talked me into using a test light I'm embarrassed to say 2 perfectly good looking fuses were the culprit 

[audiomick]

On 9/18/2024 at 11:59 PM, docc said:

Ignition switch is accessible without pulling tank or fairing. 

I beg to differ: from memory, I don't believe I could have got the ignition switch on my Le Mans off (and we are talking about a Le Mans in this thread) without removing the fairing. Thinking about it very carefully now only confirms the memory.

Anyway, @dbarb3 pay attentionto those fuses. They can, perhaps, give up due to old age, but they generally don't blow for no reason. If they blow again soon, you need to go looking for the cause.

Edited September 19 by audiomick

[docc]

11 minutes ago, audiomick said:

I beg to differ: from memory, I don't believe I could have got the ignition switch on my Le Mans off (and we are talking about a Le Mans in this thread) without removing the fairing. Thinking about it very carefully now only confirms the memory.

Anyway, @dbarb3 pay attentionto those fuses. They can, perhaps, give up due to old age, but they generally don't blow for no reason. If they blow again soon, you need to go looking for the cause.

Agreed on looking for why fuses blow.

Certainly, the Sport ignition switches are easily accessible, yet we had to access a LeMans (Rosso Corsa) switch for a fellow who had lost his key. It was accomplished, but by a younger, more nimble fellow, with smaller hands . . .

[gstallons]

I didn't see the fuse . It was fractured , not blown . I saw this about 30 yrs ago on a F-150 w/no horn or turn signals or something ? Pulling it out of the holder and it looked good. Holding it up to the sunlight and you could see it broken off to one side . Good lessons are ones you NEVER forget !