a simple oil question, i promise

[Steve Swan]

as i don't want to start a dreaded oil thread, i have a simple question on synthetic vs petroleum-based.  i have 2 gallons of Motorex 4T PowerSynt (synthetic) 10/60 from when i have my '09 CalVin...  The Le Mans owner's manual calls for 20/50, but does not note as synthetic, so i am assuming petroleum-based...?  i run Castrol semi-synthetic 20/50 in my '11 V7R, of which i have 3 gallons.

so, my questions are:

1) would it be ok to run the Motorex 4T PowerSynt (synthetic) 10/60 in the Le Mans?

2) or should i stick with 20/50, and if so, then is it ok to the run Castrol semi-synthetic 20/50?

Thanks in advance

[Chuck]

I'll take all that off your hands.. and use it.

[gstallons]

Easy , what does your manual call for ? My book calls for 20w50. W/that being said , we live in a free country.

 Personally , I would run the Castrol . 

 IDK anything about Motorex brand oils.

[p6x]

1 hour ago, gstallons said:

 IDK anything about Motorex brand oils.

I think Motorex is a Swiss company;

What we need to keep in mind, is that each "oil" brand gets their base oil mineral, semi synthetic, synthetic from many of the same suppliers. They don't make it themselves. Also, the final recipe is made using additives that come from, if I remember well, five or six companies.

At the end of the day, as long as the oil you purchase is certified by the usual JASO MA2 (2023), API SP, you really can't go wrong.

Personally, I use Motul, an oil brand that I started with in 1973 when I got my first motorcycle, albeit a two stroke engine.

I use 20W50 in the Guzzi Q and Guzzi V11.

Interestingly, Motul is now manufacturing a new line, named NGEN using some recycled components. I don't think it is available in the USA yet.

Quote

Sustainability
MOTUL NGEN is a cross-product technology name for all sustainable MOTUL lubricants. These state-of-the-art formula-
tions are one part of a completely new sustainable concept.
Comparing the environmental benefits of refined base oils with those of primary production, regenerated base oils cause
only about 35% as many CO2 emissions.*
MOTUL NGEN 7 is based on up to 50% high-quality regenerated oils and, in addition, this lubricant is filled in a new type of
bottle, which is made of 50% recycled material and is 100% recyclable.

 

[gstallons]

Do you subscribe to Machinery & Lubrication magazine ?

[activpop]

Run the Castrol. My opinion is that semi is fine, although it is harder to find that now then it was 5 years ago. Now most brands seemed to have phased out the the semi and offer full synthetics only. Gosh, years ago all I ran was petroleum based because that was widely available and never had a problem. I have used Castrol products for over 40 years, that has been my preference but there are many other great oils available. 

[activpop]

At what point does this turn into the dreaded oil thread? 

 

[PJPR01]

I don't think Oil is backwards compatible...the Calvin being younger than the LeMans...I would stick with the original manual recommendation.  But you live in a colder climate, so it would take a lot of abuse of the engine to really do any major damage.  Maybe try 1 oil change and see if the bike behaves oddly...if so, kindly donate the remaining to the V11 Lemans trust fund...someone will take it off your hands.  Chuck may fly up there in his airplane to pick it up...but if not, I'm sure one of us passing thru Colorado one day might pick it up!

 

Post some pics of the "new" bike on one of the beautiful Colorado passes...maybe Rabbit Ears descending into Steamboat for example!

 

[Pressureangle]

Your engine doesn't care. The compatibility issue died decades ago, as paraffin base oils turned into base for synthetics and synthetics changed and advanced. 

Only the higher number matters, unless you ride at temperatures below freezing. 

I run usually run Klotz 20w50 V-twin in my motorcycles because it tests at the top. But if it's not available, I use Shell Rotella T6 synthetic. '68 Dodge Charger with 502 stroker, '04 GMC Yukon with 8.1L, '74 Aermacchi H-D Sprint 350, '21 Enfield Himalayan... Everybody eats the same thing. 

That said, I do add some zddp to the 'Guzzis just because they have lifter issues with severe use.

Edited October 2 by Pressureangle

[Lucky Phil]

What you want is a group 4 full (proper) synthetic oil with the lowest cold number you can get for good flow at start up but with the narrowest viscosity spread for minimal VI improvers. So for the old BB 2 valve engine a 0W-40 such as Mobil1 0W-40 or a full synth 10W-40. The M1 spread is on the limit but I ran it for years without issue and you might need to change it slightly more regularly but it’s a great oil. The M1 also has enough zink for the lifters as well. Too much zink is a bad thing and actually leads to greater engine wear. A case of too much of a good thing. Even in a moderate climate you want the lowest cold number you can get while keeping the viscosity spread within reason. My Daytona engine runs 10W-60 which is a bit  to much spread but that engines has “special needs”

phil

Edited October 2 by Lucky Phil

[Steve Swan]

Thank you, all gentlemen. Myself, i have used Castrol for decades.  i'm going to reread your comments before i make a decision as i am waiting for a filter wrench from MGC to remove the filter.  the one i had went with my Greenie a few years ago...

[docc]

Example of simple oil question:          "Oil?"   

Example of simple answer:                 "Yep."    

 

[gstallons]

7 hours ago, Steve Swan said:

Thank you, all gentlemen. Myself, i have used Castrol for decades.  i'm going to reread your comments before i make a decision as i am waiting for a filter wrench from MGC to remove the filter.  the one i had went with my Greenie a few years ago...

Make sure the filter wrench you buy works on the filter you are removing and you use the SAME brand oil filter you are installing. The "end" of the filter has to be the same design to work. I know , I have about 10 cup type filter wrenches and no brand has the same "end cap" size/design. 

[docc]

2 hours ago, gstallons said:

Make sure the filter wrench you buy works on the filter you are removing and you use the SAME brand oil filter you are installing. The "end" of the filter has to be the same design to work. I know , I have about 10 cup type filter wrenches and no brand has the same "end cap" size/design. 

There is a big, red reminder on my V11 file that reads:

* INSPECT FILTER GASKET !

A reminder that the old filter gasket can stick in the motor and compromise oil pressure. Always insure the old gasket came out with the filter you remove.

[gstallons]

The most important inspection you will ever make .